Mandawa & Bikaner


Our first stop with my family was Mandawa Castle in Rajasthan. We took the same train from Delhi to Jaipur that Heidi and I had taken three weeks earlier. A hired van picked us up at the train station and we made the four hour drive the Mandawa. Mandawa is a small town northwest of Jaipur and is best know for its painted havalis, or mansions. The merchant class of Mandawa began decorating their homes with painted murals in the 18th century, and the town is littered with elaborate building paintings.

By far the most spectacular place we stayed in India was Mandawa Castle, on a hill in the center of town. Owned by the maharaja, each room is uniquely decorated with exquisite detail. Our room came complete with a canopied bed, two sitting antechambers--one with three-hundred year old wall paintings, and a huge marble bathroom. It was not luxurious in the western sense, but each authentic detail made it the experience of a lifetime. We truely felt like kings. Dinner was served in a huge, outdoor tent, with charcoal braziers and dancers and musicians. We definately were not on the backpacker's tour anymore.

We certainly could have stayed longer, but we had a lot of places to see in Rajasthan. We were with my parents, my brother Mike and his wife, Heather, and my brother Adam and his girlfriend, Britta. My parent's room was in a tower with a long, circular staircase with rooms on different levels, Mike's room had a swinging loveseat suspended from the ceiling.

The next day we traveled to Bikaner where we saw the palace, camel breeding center, and the most excellent Rat Temple. The Rat Temple is very cool and we'd recommend it to anyone, though it is a little out of the way. Thousands of holy rats inhabit a temple and its courtyard. The door to the temple is wide open, but the rats didn't seem to want to leave. There was a netting over the top of the courtyard to prevent hawks from snatching up the little creatures who seemed quite happy in their surroundings.

As in all temples, we had to remove our shoes, and had the wonderful experience of rats running over our feet on their way to the next bowl of milk. The were people sitting down with rats crawling all over them. It is said that if you give the rats an offering and it partially eats it, eating the rest yourself will bring you very good luck. We didn't test the validity of this saying, but we did seek out the white rat, another portend of good luck. Upon leaving, we did check our shoes carefully before putting them back on!


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