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Tips on smart shopping for holiday jewelry

Whether you're buying five golden rings or that classic strand of pearls, purchasing a nice piece of jewelry for the holidays isn't that difficult. But getting a good deal takes a little know-how.

The first rule: Buy from someone you trust.

"Know what you're buying," says Alex Angelle, AJP, spokesman for the Gemological Institute of America. "And the best way to know what you're buying is to know who you're buying from."

Second, get "a full and accurate description of the item," he says. Know that words like "synthetic," "created" or "lab created," mean the stones are not natural. "Be sure you know if the gem you're buying is natural, synthetic or treated in any way."

If the item comes with a laboratory report, it should be from an accredited gem lab. In the report, look for treatments done to the stone (such as heating, irradiation or laser drilling and filling) that may enhance the appearance, but not necessarily the value.

And, whether you're buying for yourself or someone else, you want the option of returning the item. Whether your special someone prefers gold to platinum or the item just isn't the quality expected, you want a seller who stands behind the product with a convenient return policy.

Pearls
Like other stones, the key is to know what you're buying. If the pearls are real, odds are they're cultured. "You really won't find natural pearls in the marketplace," says Robert Artelt, chief marketing officer for Mikimoto America.

For quality pearls, look for a bubble- or blemish-free surface on the pearls. And the rounder they are, the better. "The more round they are, the more expensive they will be and the better quality they will be," says Artelt.

Freshwater pearls, which tend to have an irregular shape, are usually less-expensive because they take less time to grow, he says.

Pearls can range in color from silvery white to white, with green or pink overtones, to pink. The rounder and more lustrous, the better the quality and, usually, the higher the price. Luster is also a sign of greater strength and durability. There's no right or wrong with color, says Artelt. If you're choosing something like a pearl necklace, select a color that will complement the skin tone.

Sometimes pearls are dyed, and that's fine as long as the coloring process is stable and no one is trying to pass off the color as natural, says Artelt. One way to tell: If they are on a string, look for color demarcation around the drill hole, he says.

A good quality string of pearls, like many better necklaces, is likely to have a safety clasp. In addition to the regular clasp, there will be some sort of second fastening device as a safeguard. "In more inexpensive strands, it's less common," says Artelt.

"Since there is no standard grading system for pearls, you really have to know the business you are doing business with," says Artelt.

And yes, you can tell if pearls are real by running them over your teeth, says Artelt. But save that for the set you inherit from Grandma, not your next trip to the mall.