A
compound expressed from the leaf of the aloe plant, which is a South
African lilylike plant. In the West, aloe gel, which is derived from
the thin-walled mucilaginous cells of the plant, is considered an
effective healing agent for the treatment of burns and injuries.
While there is no scientific evidence that aloe vera has any benefits
in cosmetics according to the American Medical Association, it has
been used to counteract wrinkles, and is employed for its supposed
softening benefits in skin creams. No reported toxicity.
ALIZARIN
Natural crystals occurring in madder root (genus Rubia,
especially a Eurasian species, having small, yellow flowers and a
red, fleshy root). Many dyes and coloring agents are derivatives of
these orange-red crystals (also referred to as Turkey Red). Color
can be varied with the type of metal powders mixed the crystals.
Non-toxic, however, some irritation is possible.
ALUMINUM POWDER
The powderized metal element of aluminum, used in paints and
pigments. Non-toxic.
ANTISEPTIC-A
A product that kills or inhibits the growth of disease causing
microorganisms (bacteria, yeast and mold).
ASTRINGENT-A
A product that causes a contraction of body tissues after
application. Astringents are applied to facial skin to cause a
tautening or tightening of the skin tissue.
BEESWAX
Produced by bees, this natural wax is commonly used in creams
and lotions, acting as an emulsifier. Non-toxic. (See also Cera Na).
BEHENYL ALCOHOL (Docosanol)
A mixture of fatty alcohols derived from behenic acid, a minor
component of vegetable oils and animal fats. It is used in cosmetics
as an opacifying agent, thickener, and emulsifier. Used also in
synthetic fibers and lubricants to prevent evaporation of water, and
as an insecticide and antihistamine. Low toxicity.
BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole)
Used to prevent oxidation of oils in cosmetics. As a synthetic
anti-oxidant, use has been limited by the FDA. Some allergic
reactions have been reported.
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
An anti-syphilitic (skin-protective) salt from the mineral
Bismuth (Bi). This soft powder is used in cosmetics to impart a
frosty or "pearlescent" appearance. No known external
toxicity.
BORAX
See Sodium Borate
BUTYL STEARATE
Due to its versatile nature, and virtually odorless, used as a
solvent, as well as a softening and spreading agent throughout the
cosmetic industry, as well as in other industries. Emulsification
properties make this a desirable agent in the formulation of
lipstick, polishes and other special coatings. Non-toxic.
CANDELILLA WAX
Primarily considered a hydrocarbon, this is used to harden other
waxes. The majority of the wax is produced in Mexico from the
candelilla plant; immersion in boiling water containing sulphuric
acid releases the plant's natural wax, which is skimmed off the top
of the water.
CAPRYLLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
Various vegetable oils, dairy fats, plants and sweat are the
sources of this ingredient which is used in perfumes, lipsticks, and
artificial flavoring (refer to Glyceride).
CARMINE
A brilliant red dye derived from dried and pulverized adult
female cochineal insects, a tropical American scale insect which
feeds on a specific type of cacti. It is often used in the coloring
of cosmetics, medicines, foods, etc. Some allergic reactions are
possible.
CARNAUBA WAX
A hard wax obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian wax palm
tree. Used for gloss and texture, reported allergic reactions are
rare.
CASTOR OIL
This soothing and lubricating ingredient is a colorless or light
yellow oil extracted from the seeds of the castor-oil plant. A large
plant native to tropical Africa and Asia, the castor-oil plant is
also grown for its ornamental value. Used for its fine-quality
lubricating properties, it can also act as a cathartic when taken
internally.
CELLULOSE, CELLULOSE GUM
Cellulose is by definition an amorphous (formless) carbohydrate
polymer which is the main constituent for cell walls and structural
elements of all plant tissues and plant fibers. Ehtyl-, methyl- and
hydroxyethyl- cellulose are gums which are made from cellulose.
Ethyl- is a film former which is used in lipsticks. Methyl- and
hydroxyethyl- have desirable emulsification and thickening
properties and are used throughout the cosmetic industry as well as
in hand creams and lotions. Manufactured from natural cellulose
utilizing strong alkali and methyl or ethyl chloride, methyl- or
ethyl- cellulose gums are substitutes for water soluble vegetable
gums.
CERA NA
Saponified beeswax; hydrolysis process by an alkali converts
beeswax into a useable form.
CERSIN WAX
Used as an emulsifier and thickener, this natural mineral wax
has been reported to cause some allergic reactions.
CETYL ALCOHOL
Derived form coconut oil or produced synthetically, no longer
derived from cetaceans (whales), this wax-like substance helps
emulsify oils into a water base and can also be used as an
emollient. Toxicity level has been established as being very low for
both internal and external use.
CETYL PALMITATE
Emollient. No known external toxicity.
D & C COLORS
FDA-approved colors for use in drugs and cosmetics. Some colors
may contain coal tar dyes and, as such, their safety is
controversial.
DEMINERALIZED WATER
Water which has been processed through a resin bed, thereby
removing mineral salts and other ionic contaminants.
DIMETHICONE
Utilized in cosmetics to produce a good "slip" and
"feel", this inert silicone-type fluid adds to water
repellency and ease of spreadability; a smooth and soft feeling is
obtained without stickiness or oiliness. Sunscreens and stick
products may contain this ingredient; low level of toxicity.
EMOLLIENT
Skin softening agents. The only material that softens skin is
water, therefore cosmetic scientists try to formulate moisturizing
products which will help the skin retain water for lengthy periods
of time. Humectants and oils are both moisturizing agents and both
can be called emollients. However, it usually is customary to refer
to the oils as emollients because they not only help soften skin by
their water retardation mechanism, but also impart a smooth and
velvety finish.
EMULSIFIER
An agent used to stabilize an emulsion (e.g., suspending oil in
water or vis versa). This keeps the formula from separating so that
it does not have to be shaken before use. (eg., oils with water).
ENZYMES
Complex proteins produced by living cells that catalyze
biochemical reactions at body temperature. Enzymes such as papain or
bromelin are used in facial treatment masks and facial cleansers to
help dissolve dead skin tissue.
FERRIC FERROCYNAIDE
This ingredient is comprised of 2 components. Ferric being iron
and Ferrocyanide being a salt derived from ferrocyanic acid, a solid
white compound. Used to make a wide spectrum of blue colors. Low or
no toxicity.
GELS
Simi-rigid transparent or translucent vehicles. In many
instances, all of the ingredients used in a cosmetic are
water-soluble. In order to keep the preparation from running down
during application, a gel is used. It is also possible to prepare
gels containing water-insoluble ingredients such as Vitamin A or E
by using solubilizers as well as gellants to formulate the product.
If the gel is formulated to be very soft it is called a gelee.
GLYCERYL MONOSTEARATE
This variation of glycerol (a sweet, syrup-like, colorless or
yellowish liquid, a by-product of soap/fatty-acids manufacturing),
used in combination with monostearate, as an emulsification and
dispersement agent. No reported toxicity when used externally.
HECTORITE
Facial masks may contain this naturally occurring clay in order
to draw out oils as well as tone skin. When used externally, there
have been no reports of toxicity; however, in a powder form there
may be an irritation to the lungs.
HUMECTANT
A material that has the ability to hold water and is used as a
skin moisturizing agent. Glycerin and sorbitol are examples of
humectants.
HYDROGENATED COTTONSEED OIL
The fixed oil from the seeds of the cultivated varieties of the
plant. Pale yellow, oily, odorless liquid used in the manufacture of
soaps, creams, nail polish removers, and lubricants. Has been shown
to cause allergic reactions depending on how it is used in
formulations. Hydrogenated ingredients are used to convert liquid
oils to solids or semisolids at room temperature, as well as to
reduce acid and improve color in the formulation.
HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE GLYCERIDE
Hydrogenating glyceride creates a saturated long-chain molecule,
which adds a smoother texture and retards oxidation (rancidity) of
the oily glyceride. Hydrogenated ingredients are used to convert
liquid oils to solids or semisolids at room temperature, as well as
to reduce acid and improve color in the formulation.
HYDROXY ETHYLCELLULOSE
See Celluose
HYDROYLATED LANOLIN
When used in cosmetic pencils, enhances the strength of the
pencil lead; also used as an emollient and as a skin conditioning
agent. No know external toxicity.
IMIDAZOLIDINYL UREA
Used to preserve cosmetics against bacterial contamination;
prolongs product shelf life. Does not contain formaldehyde or other
irritants. No recorded toxicity.
IRON OXIDE
Various compounds which combine iron and oxygen. Purity and
amount of water present during reaction will determine color
(yellow, red, orange, brown, black). Naturally occurs as magnetite
(black), ocher, burnt sienna, hematite (red), etc. Refining will
yield colors which are brighter and more pure. Used in cosmetic
industry in creams, powders, lipsticks, mascaras. No toxicity.
ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE
Obtained from seed kernels or nutmeg, this ester of myrisitc
acid has the qualities of being light and oily which can be soothing
and readily absorbed by the skin; leaves no feeling of oiliness. May
have comedogenic (pore-clogging) characteristics. Many lotions,
creams, and cleaners may contain this ingredient. No known toxicity.
JAPAN WAX
This wax is derived from any of the various genus Rhus shrubs or
small trees (have compound leaves and clusters of small green
flowers, usually followed by red, hairy fruits). Some types of these
genus Rhus cause an acute rash. Used as a plasticizer, a polisher.
Wax in an unpurified state may cause a reaction similar to poison
oak.
JOJOBA OIL
Increasingly used in cosmetics, it is the oil extracted from the
"jojoba bean" or beanlike seeds of the desert shrub
Simondsia chinensis. Due to its humectant (moisture-attracting) and
astringent properties, it is now found in shampoos, moisturizers,
sunscreens, and conditioners and to improve "crow's feet",
wrinkles, stretch marks, and dry skin. May cause allergic reactions
in some sensitive people.
LAKE
The resultant organic pigment chemically separated from an
oil-soluble organic dye into a underlying layer of absorbent
mineral. Since the colors are water-soluble, they do not meet the
color-fast requirements for paints or fabric dyes. However, they are
successfully and commonly used as cosmetic color. Wide range of
colors and numerous minerals used as substrate (on which an enzyme
acts) - iron, calcium, copper, aluminum, etc. (Also see
"Alizarin.")
LANOLIN ALCOHOL
Usually as acetates, commercially prepared from lanolin, waxy
solids and liquids, yellowish and brownish in color, such as sterols
(predominately unsaturated solid alcohols of the steroid group,
i.e., cholesterol and ergosterol) and aliphatics (oils). Less
irritating than pure lanolin, can be used to form a water-repelling
film on the skin, without being sticky; helps retain fluid balance
in skin cells, thereby providing protection from the outside
elements and acting as a moisturizer.
LAURIC ACID
Due to its high-sudsing detergent qualities, this fatty acid
produced from coconut or laurel (Bay), and other vegetable fats, is
used as a surfactant and wetting agent throughout the cosmetic
industry. No toxicity. May be an irritant but is not a sensitizer.
MANGANESE VIOLET
A mid-purple shade pigment.
METHYLPARABEN
Methyl p-Hydrobenzoate. Gum resin from various trees of the
genus Styrax containing benzoic acid, a white crystalline acid.
Inhibits microbial growth, preserves cosmetics, extending shelf life
of products. More effective in lower concentrations and less toxic
than salicylic or benzoic acids. Reports of dermatitis.
MICA
Any of several naturally occurring minerals or salts of silicon
and oxygen (silicates). Mica is found in rocks, sands, clay, or soil
in thin, crystallized, flexible sheets that can be easily separated.
As a solid, the minerals are soft, translucent, sparkling and vary
in color. Used in cosmetics for color (varying from pale green to
brown to black to colorless), as a lubricant, and as a soft, translucent,
sparkling filler. No known external toxicity.
MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX
Characterized by a crystal structure, either as it appears in
nature or as remanufactured, thus a much smaller structure than that
occurring in normal wax. Chlorophyll, a natural product, is a
microcrystalline wax. Various uses include adhesives, paper coating,
cosmetic creams, emulsions.
MINERAL OIL
This heavy, film-forming oil is a clear liquid mixture of
hydrocarbons derived from petroleum. Due to its residue-remaining
characteristic, mineral oils is not recommended for use in lotions
or shampoos. Can be beneficial in cleansing lotions which are
designed to be removed from skin.
OCTYL DODECANOL
See Stearyl Alcohol
OZOKERITE
See Ceresin Wax
PALM KERNEL OIL
Oil from the African Palm nut. Many soaps use this ingredient
due to its high-sudsing property; makes a softer bar or soap than
when utilizing tallow or palm oil. Is more like a "Lauric"
(occurrence in some Laurel) of coconut oil than palm oil. No known
toxicity.
PEG-2 STEARATE (Diethylene Glycol Monostearate)
Steric Acid derivative (see Stearic Acid), tan-colored wax.
Soluble when dispersed in hot water, acetone or in hot oils.
Utilized as an emulsifying agent in lotions and creams. No known
toxicity.
PETROLATUM (Paraffin Jelly, Petroleum Jelly)
Used industrially in various applications, in gel, liquid or wax
forms, and throughout the cosmetic industry. In cosmetics, can act
as an effective and an inexpensive emollient; will coat skin and
block normal skin respiration. Is difficult to remove, has a greasy
feel. Due to product purity, has a low level of toxicity. Allergic
skin rash may occur.
POLYETHYLENE
Can be used effectively in a gentle scrub, in the form of small,
smooth pellets. Inert. No toxicity.
POLYSORBATE 60
An emulsifier, it is a condensate of sorbitol with stearic acid
and is waxy and soluble in solvents.
PVP (Polyvinylprrolidone)
As a pigment dispersing and expanding agent, this resin is used
in medicines and cosmetics. Softening agent for shampoos, hair
sprays, emollient in creams, skin lotions and liquid makeup
preparations. Water-proofing agent in creams, lotions and sun care
products. Other uses include beer and wine clarification and
detoxification of certain chemicals. Low level of toxicity.
PRESERVATIVE
A material that inhibits the growth of microorganisms such as
bacteria, yeast, and molds in a product. Preservatives also can
include anti-oxidants which prevent the formation of rancid odor due
to degradation of certain unsaturated oils. Preservatives are
necessary to keep a product from spoiling (becoming rancid,
developing a bad odor and/or discoloring). Preservatives added to
cosmetics help keep them pure and protect users.
PROPYLENE CARBONATE
Solvent. An agent utilized to decrease viscosity.
PROPYLPARABEN (Propyl p-Hydroxybenzoate)
Used widely as a preservative in cosmetics, esters of p-Hydroxybenzoate
acid (from Benzoic Acid) act as both a bacteriacide and fungicide.
While slightly soluble and neutral, is effective against various
contaminants, over an entire pH range (acid, neutral or alkaline).
Used in shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, etc. Medical use as
a treatment for fungus infections. Low level of toxicity. Less toxic
and more effective in lower concentrations than salicylic or benzoic
acids. Contact dermatitis possible.
SILICA
A white powder or colorless crystal occurring naturally as sand,
quartz, flint, diatomite. Comprised of silicon and oxygen, has
water-repellent and lubricating characteristics and is used widely
in creams. Has light-diffusing properties versus the
light-refracting properties of ingredients like Titanium Dioxide.
SORBITAN STEARATE
An emulsifier in cosmetic creams and lotions, a solubilizer of
essential oils in water. Used in antiperspirants, deodorants, cake
makeup, hand creams, hair tonics, rouge, and suntan creams.
Manufactured by reacting edible commercial stearic acid with
sorbitol. Light cream to tan-colored, hard waxy solid, with a bland
odor and taste. No know toxicity.
STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE
See Hectorite
STEARIC ACID
A mild acid which does not affect pH, this white, waxy natural
fatty acid is produced from animal fats, vegetable oils, tallow or
butter acids. Characteristics provide a pearl-like quality and
degree of firmness. Applications include formulations of a variety
of creams, lotions, soaps, and deodorants. There have been reports
made by allergic persons of sensitization reactions.
STERIN (Tristearin, Glyceryl Tristearate)
Most fats include this waxy, crystalline ingredient. Used in
Stearic Acid manufacturing and in the composition of soaps, creams,
and candles. While present in hard oils such as cocoa butter and
tallow, also occurs in various vegetable oils and animal fats.
STEARYL ALCOHOL
Produced from stearic acid and a mixture of solid alcohols
(primarily stearol), utilized as a lubricant and an antifoam agent
for emulsions; also used in shampoos and rinses. Applications in the
pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. No toxicity reported.
STEARYL HEPTANOATE
Used as a skin conditioning agent and a texturizer in creams and
makeup. Free from Stearyl Alcohol and Heptanoc Acid.
SYNTHETIC WAX
A hydrocarbon wax derived from various oils.
TALC, TALCUM
Magnesium silicate, a naturally occurring mineral. May be a
component in formulating baby powders, foundations, creams, and
makeup powders. Due to its link to ovarian cancer in women when used
in the genital area, other powders, such as corn starch, are
recommended as respective substitutes. An irritant to the lungs, it
is toxic when inhaled.
TALLOW GLYCERINE
A mixture of triglycerides (fats) derived from tallow, fat of
either animal or vegetable sources.
TEA (Triethanolamine)
Converts acid to salt (stearate) and as such becomes a base for
cleansers. A pH adjuster, colorless, low-alkaline solid. Should not
be used as a beverage. (See Ethanolamines)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
An exceptionally opaque, white pigment. Occurring naturally in
different crystal forms in igneous rocks, it is used as a whitening
agent and as a filler in cosmetics. With a refractive index higher
than that of a diamond, it is identified by the FDA as a Class I sun
protection against UVA and UVB rays. No known external toxicity.
TOCOPHEROL (Vitamin E)
An antioxidant in baby preparations, deodorants, and
hair-grooming aids. Obtained by the vacuum distillation of edible
vegetable oils. Used as an antioxidant for essential oils, rendered
animal fats, or a combination of such fats with vegetable oils. Used
to prevent rancidity and oxidation of oils in formulations. Pure
substance may cause contact dermatitis in some sensitive
individuals.
TRILAURIN
Lauric Acid, glyceride off (see Lauric Acid).
TRISTEARIN
See Stearin
ULTRAMARINE BLUE/ULTRAMARINE VIOLET
Clay, sulfur and an alkali are subjected to very high
temperatures, producing this coloring agent. Chemically
non-reactive. Low level of toxicity. Low level of irritability.
VEGETABLE OIL
Peanut, sesame, olive, and cottonseed oil obtained from plants
and used in cleansing creams, emollient creams, face powders,
hair-grooming aids, hypoallergenic cosmetics, lipsticks, nail
creams, shampoos, shaving creams, and wave sets. No known toxicity.