Chicago's primary geographical advantage is its position on the southwest edge of Lake Michigan. Many of the major tourist attractions are located along the scenic lakefront, including Navy Pier, Lincoln Park, Grant Park, and the Museum of Science and Industry.

An enormously popular path runs along much of the Lakefront, from Hollywood south for at least thirty miles. Bicyclists, joggers, walkers, and inline skaters all compete for space on this path. It is most crowded on the north end, particularly near the popular beaches around North Avenue. The southern stretches are often sparsely populated. Recent improvements have enhanced the pleasures of moving along this scenic way. The most dramatic change has been the rerouting of Lake Shore Drive so that the street now runs entirely along the west side of the Field Museum. The northbound lane used to snake between the Museum and the Shedd Aquarium. The only walkway between these two popular attractions was a dank, dark underpass that always reeked of urine. Today, an attractively landscaped "Museum Campus" has been created. The new underpass connecting the Museum Campus with the rest of Grant Park is large, well lit, and receives excellent police attention. The third museum in the area is the Adler Planetarium. While definitely not a must-see attraction (the Shedd and Field certainly are) it is well worth walking out along its premonitory for a fabulous view of the Chicago skyline. There's a small, easily missed beach to the south here, just below some miniature Stonehenge-like rocks.

Another huge improvement has been along the area between the Shedd Aquarium and McCormick Place. A bicyclist used to hazard uneven sidewalks strewn with broken glass while peddling past weed-strewn parking lots. Now the area is nicely landscaped and two separate walkways run by the pier and the Soldier's Field parking lot.

 For trivia buffs, the Balbo Column lies along the path east of Soldier's Field. This is a remnant of the Century of Progress in 1933, but the column is an original ruin from a Roman temple in Ostia. The remaining seven columns still exist outside of Porta Marina. Mussolini sent the column as a gift in commemoration of his General Balbo's transatlantic flight to Chicago. This was a huge event in Chicago at the time, probably because of strong Italian American political connections. I know this because I used to live in the house where a local judge ran a funeral home (infamous for its lavish mobster funerals). This judge had close ties to Balbo and saved many autographed pictures of himself with Balbo during this spectacular event.

There is an inscription along the base of the column in Italian and English that has been defaced over the years because of its fascist connection. Here's what the English part says:

THIS COLUMN

TWENTY CENTURIES OLD

ERECTED ON THE SHORES OF OSTIA

PORT OF IMPERIAL ROME

TO SAFEGUARD THE FORTUNES AND VICTORIES

OF THE ROMAN TRIREMES

FASCIST ITALY BY COMMAND OF BENITO MUSSOLINI

PRESENTS TO CHICAGO

EXALTATION SYMBOL MEMORIAL

OF THE ATLANTIC SQUADRON LED BY BALBO

THAT WITH ROMAN DARING FLEW ACROSS THE OCEAN

IN THE ELEVENTH YEAR

OF THE FASCIST ERA

The neglected area south of McCormick Place is currently undergoing extensive remodeling. I'm very hopeful for the results. The mayor has also been trying for years to turn the noisy little airport on Northerly Island, east of McCormick Place, into a park. I would be very happy to see this plan come to fruition.

North of the Museum Campus is the large Buckingham Fountain. At night, a light and music show is choreographed to changing water spurts. North and south of the fountain are lovely rose gardens and smaller fountains.

Often, music fans need only venture west or north of the fountain for free entertainment. West, in the small garden near Michigan and Harrison (where the extra long picnic bench type sculpture is located), is the site of the city's summer dance festival. On many evening, you can dance to anything from Cajun to Swing. This outdoor dance floor used to be setup across from the Cultural Center (another must for the visitor -- tourist information, great architecture and exhibits). It was moved to its current location while construction takes place on the eagerly awaited Millenium Park that will run over the railway yards north of the Art Institute, between Monroe and Randolph.

North of Buckingham Fountain is the Petrillo Band Shell, where you can often hear classical music performances during the evening. The area around here is also used for the city's seemingly endless array of summer festivals: Jazz, Blues, Gospel, Irish, Taste of Chicago, etc. If a festival is in progress you'll see lots of tents and probably far too many people.

The famous Art Institute lies to the west. Everyone knows about its strong Impressionist collection, but don't miss (and it is easy to miss) the Thorne Miniature Room collection in the basement. The Film Center is currently located here as well but they will soon be moving to Dearborn Street and changing its name to commemorate local critic Gene Siskel.

Further north along the lakefront, is Navy Pier, Chicago's most popular tourist attraction. This fact alone should give the smart tourist warning. If you've seen the view from the Planetarium, there's not much to recommend here, unless you like torpid Ferris Wheels and lots of cheesy vendors. There is a theater here and dinner cruises can be booked. I'd give it a quick look but wouldn't spend much time. They do often have extensive fireworks at night, but you can see these from anywhere along the lake downtown. You can also rent silly looking bicycles-built-for-four. If you're looking to rent regular bicycles, there are several better places further north along the lakefront.

The most popular beaches run from Oak Street north. Keep in mind that Lake Michigan water is usually quite chilly. Personally, I could only go swimming during about 10 weeks out of the year, but I've seen hardier folks in the water when it was extremely cold.

Lincoln Park may be the next most popular attraction after Navy Pier, primarily because of its free zoo. The zoo has improved over the years but is decidedly uneven. The new, plant-filled Small Mammal House is excellent, as is the Great Ape House. However the best part of the Lion House is the 1920's style architecture on the outside -- don't even bother to go in. The Farm-in-the-Zoo is very popular but not too interesting for adults. Next to the zoo is a wonderful Conservatory, greatly improved in recent years, although I still think the one in Garfield Park is better. North of the zoo is a brand-new Nature Museum that includes a butterfly exhibit. South of the zoo is a pretty good Historical Society.

Both Grant and Lincoln Parks are wonderfully decorated with flower beds in summer. Both parks have popular softball fields. Ironically, the most famous statue in Lincoln Park is of Grant while the most famous statue in Grant Park is of Lincoln (although there is also a famous statue of Lincoln in Lincoln Park).

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