Chicago Journal

Part Six: Venetian Night, Woodstock, Bohemia near Lawrence, Ping Pong

I'll say a bit more about Venetian Night since it is a long standing Chicago festival. Basically, Venetian Night is exactly like Fourth of July -- great fireworks following an excellent classical Grant Park concert -- with the addition of a boat parade. A few dozen boats, brightly lit and decorated according to some theme float by. Pretty simple, but it works somehow. Everyone on the boats wave like mad to the people who have set up picnics on the shore. Grant Park isn't quite as crowded as July Fourth and everyone seems laid back for this event.

We spent a very pleasant day poking through a few antique shops and estate sales, and then just walking around viewing some of the older buildings. Aside from the historic square and surrounding architecture, they have a new Dick Tracy museum. I'm definitely not a Chester Gould fan, but it's worth a quick look and would be an essential stop for someone who was. The Woodstock Opera House is a stunning building and is still used. Orson Welles grew up near by and had some of his first performances here.

As always, we follow local's advice for food, heading to Angelo's Restaurant for large portions at non-Chicago prices. Later, we stop for a drink at the Tavern On The Square, which is creatively housed in an old jailhouse. The Tip-Top Café from the movie is now the spot of a trendy looking Italian Restaurant. Hmm, seems like a great spot for a café to me but maybe Angelo's already fulfills that function.

Strange how a very ordinary town has become interesting for me as a visitor. Chicago is simply surrounded by too many charmless suburbs. I hope Woodstock stays its course.

We'll leave by the main entrance and head south to Lawrence Ave, turning east to the Kimball El stop. Many of the shops we pass along the way are Korean owned but you'll see just about every nationality represented. Most of these businesses are delightfully ramshackle. I peek inside one to see boxes piled all over the floor and the owner sitting in a chair in the middle of the room watching tv. Another, labeled a bakery, is completely empty except for a small, empty glass case. In another, a large sign advertises fresh fish and other seafood, but inside is a beauty shop.

My favorite sign labels a shop north of Lawrence: "Health Tea -- Goat, Pumpkin, Silky, etc." The door is locked so we ring the bell and ask the woman inside about medicinal teas. She doesn't seem to have any though. Sybil is sure this place is a front.

 On a final unrelated note, many people will remember that Chicago was littered with artistically decorated cows last year. They were very popular and quite a lot of fun. I think they are doing something similar in New York this year, but it doesn't seem to be catching on as well. This year's gimmick in Chicago is table tennis. Yes, ping pong tables have been setup in many areas, although not nearly to the ubiquitous extent the cows were. Some of the tables are circular and spin around while you try to play. I like the idea but the tables always seem to be in use, so most people don't get to try them. I'm hoping for something better next year.