Part Seven - Cape Town
Gidday boys and girls. We hope you're doing well. We've finally arrived in Cape Town. Soo stoked to get here
Well this is our final update to the website from africa
While we were doing our last update our bikes were receiving a little tlc in Jowells bike shop next door. We headed back there to pick em up and got chatting to crew in the shop. The family who owned the shop took pity on a couple of road weary cyclists they offered us a place to stay for the night. We jumped at the chance, jumped in the work van and were chaffeur driven to the Flint family residence for night. The day before had been Garys birthday so we went out with family and friends for a great birthday meal. Gary races cycles and upon returning we had a quick check of some of his gear . Many thanks guys and good luck with the cycling Gary.
Wally showed us the way out of town and we headed south into the Transkei. One of the old black homelands. People had warned us about it being pretty dodgy but we found some of the friendliest black people we'd met in South Africa there. We were careful to be off the streets after dark though and when we stopped at small shops for food we got asked where our escort was, apparently big groups of cyclists in the Transkei have police escorts.
The countryside consisted of very barren rolling hills dotted with villages . We'd been warned about huge hills which we's have to walk up but found the terrain reasonably easy. It was great to have difficulty overestimated for a change as nothing is more demoralising than expecting and easy day and ending up doing a killer. Eventually we reached Umtata (the local capital) aftre our biggest days ride of the trip. We did over 200ks. Cycled around the city after dark on a friday night in a rain storm trying to find a caravan park that had closed down. We gave up and decided to go to a hotel after a couple of hours. About that time we bumped into Chris and John. They gave us a lift to the Savoy in the back of their truck filled with snack food. Had more than a few beers that night. Chris was an expert on poisonous animals and assured Danny that a spider that had attacked him the previous day was (Highly) deadly. The thing came out of the grass while he was fixing the chain and was quite aggressive. It was bigger than his hand, hairy and had a set of fangs that a vampire would have been proud of.
We started to get good views of the Coast around East London and were really impressed by some of the seaside towns between there and Port Elizabeth. Blue skies, white beaches and some incredible houses to look at with envy. Only one more month in our little Macpac tent. The locals liked there Super 12 rugby and had a great time taking the piss out of us Kiwis. We still managed a few beers for our cycling efforts however. We got into Port Elizabeth with an fantastic sunset and immediately noticed the bad street lighting in the city. It turned out they were having a major powercut so we spent a couple of hours searching for accomodation in nearly pitch black conditions.
People were really generous towards us the whole time we were in South Africa as well as amazed that we were still alive. Its amazing how much sympathy two sweaty, smelly cyclists inspire in people. Engela had stopped a few days earlier on the road to check we were OK and we had arranged to meet her for a chat. She managed to locate us in a middle of nowhere village off the main road. And she came bearing bountiful gifts .
We were nearing Cape Town and starting seeing our first signs at the start of the Garden Route. Very exciting indeedy. The much talked about Garden Route was great but unfortunately we didnt have enough time to enjoy it to the fullest. It was tourist country and offered everything from the worlds highest bungey jump to spectacular forest and sea reserves. We stopped at Jefferys Bay which had crisp invigorating water and some of the best surfing in South Africa. In the evening huge schools of dolphins cruised past the point just beyond the beach dodging the Killer Whales further out to sea.
Once again we were well looked after. Thanks to Devault and Penny at a Tsitsikama Farm Stall who offered us beds which we turned down for a tent well guarded by geese and dogs and various other farmyard friends.
After the garden route we headed away from the rain up to the Little Karoo to check out the birds . Oudtshoorn had a great little backpackers called Oasis with lots of cool people staying an all you can eat ostrich meat braai ( barbecue). There was also lots to do when not lounging around the pool. We went caving one day with a small party of forty school children and a cave guide who admitted she didnt like kids. We did the adventure tour and got to squeeze the narrow passages that only earlier that week it had taken three hours to remove a tourist from. Apparently a certain part of her anatomy wouldnt pass through and she panicked.
Oudtshoorn is also famous for ostrich farming and we visited a local ostrich farm. We got shown an ostrich museum complete with items found in their stomachs like high heels from shoes and spark plugs. We also got to ride one. Jonny went first and had a very quick ride more in the vertical that the horizontal plane. Danny thought it was definitely a fall that would require utilisation of Jonny medical insurance but luckily cycling had hardened certain areas and after a lot of cursing and rubbing he seemed to recover. Danny however learned from Jonnys mistake and exited with style after a few seconds of adrenaline pumping.
We cycled across the Little Karoo which had a few major passes and made perfect cycling country. We stopped for a rest at Ronnies Sex Shop in the middle of nowhere. We had a pint with some characters there who had been playing golf that morning but were now busy indulging another passtime now that the sun was over the yardarm. Unfortunately Ronnies Sex Shop doesnt sell much of the items the name suggests. Ronnie went on holiday from Ronnies Shop and returned to find his mates had played a joke. Apparently business has never been so good.
The last day into Cape Town was the hardest. Our bodies thought we were already there and werent so keen. We had some great scenery along the way as we passed through the winelands. It was great to finally see our goal ...... Cape Town. Unfortunately the weather wasnt quite up to expectation and we spent the first few days without a good glimpse of Table mountain. We made up for it however by visiting the incredibly good restaraunts in the city and sampling South African wine. Who needs sunshine anyway.
Today is the last day in Cape Town and the sun came out to see us off. We walked up table mountain with two other kiwis this morning for some incredible views of the coast and city including the waterfront . We get on a plane early tomorrow morning and say goodbye to Africa. We hope youve enjoyed our on the spot adventure updates. We'll tidy this site up and add more material at some later date.
Best of Luck