Eyeless in Gaza
Sundown Ledge, New Hampshire
Eyeless in Gaza
Sundown Ledge, New Hampshire
During the summer of 1998, in the dark days when I was a prisoner of the Peoples Republic of Vermont, I made two trips to Sundown Ledge in New Hampshire. The trips occurred on consecutive weekends. Not surprisingly, both days featured extended torrential downpours. Ideal conditions for working this single pitch sport climb.
I had met Nick at the Burlington Rock Gym. He almost had the first ascent of this climb. Trying to lead it trad, ground up, he and his partner failed to reach the top. Before they could return, the climb was bolted and completed. Nick said, "If you climb one 5.12 in your life, make it this one." In Rock & Ice #95, Peter Beal calls this route one of the two best sport routes in New Hampshire. The climb is that good. Finding it is easy enough. Walk along the base of Sundown until you see the system of flakes that comprise the route. It is the most obvious line at the cliff. It leans well past vertical its entire length, and *never* gets wet.
My onsight attempt ended at the second bolt. Pretty weak, but what can I say? My partner Derek and I worked it on toprope the first day. Every time we fell, we would swing way out into the rain, then back into the cliff where we would grab the other end of the rope and clip in for a rest. At the end of the first day, I went for the redpoint. The picture above was taken on this attempt. About 5 seconds after this shot, I lunged for the big round hold below the last clip, and went for a ride. We hiked out in the rain.
We arrived fresh and motivated the next week, although a little soggy from the hike in. It was my turn to hang the draws, and I dogged my way up, memorizing the best sequence. My next trip up to work the route, I did it with one hang. Then I went for the redpoint, and totally walked it. I climbed it twice more that day. On my fourth redpoint attempt, I got a little too cocky. Some guys wanted me to hang their rope for them, so I was towing it up behind me. I didn't concentrate and ended up popping off on a reachy move down low. The skies cleared, the sun came out, and we packed up and headed for home.