Gerry Roach's Flatiron Classics

Roach to Rossiter Translation

Gerry Roach's Flatiron Classics is the definitive guide for easy climbs in the Flatirons. In Rock Climbing the Flatirons, Richard Rossiter attempts to document all of the climbing in the Flatirons, especially the many difficult routes that Roach ignores. Roach's book is out of print, yet superior in its treatment of the easier routes. On this page I list the routes Roach designates as Classic and Top Ten, and include notes on doing these routes using Rossiter's guide. Also, Rossiter's ratings of the easier routes are often bogus, so I include Roach's ratings and his rating translation table.

Location Rock Route and Grade
(* = Top Ten)
Rossiter Translation Notes
Boulder Mountain The Matron East Ridge F6
North Face F6 * North Face Center, do roof
The Maiden North Face F6 * Standard Route
The Fatiron East Face F5 *
Tiny Tower East Face F6
Central Shanahan Crag Southeast Ridge of Southern Summit F3 Shanahan Crags, Southeast Ridge
South Face F5 Shanahan Crags, South Face
The Slab Diagonal F4 Northeast Arete, do entire ridge
The Nebel Horn Pellaea East Face F6 *
Onoclea East Face F5
Fiddle Head East Face F5
Seal Rock East Face South Side F5 East Face Left
Dinosaur Mountain Dinosaur Rock East Face F5 Rug Munchers. Climb to overhang on east face, climb obvious left/south facing slot.
Southern Dinosaur Egg Hatch F6
Northern Dinosaur Egg Rehatch F6
Der Freischutz Free Shot F2
South Ridge F3
Frontporch Tiptoe Slab F4
Backporch East Face F6 *
FI FI Fun F4
FO Quadratic Equation F6
Skunk Canyon Achean Pronouncement East Face F7
The Rainbow Primal Rib F5 The Dreadnaught, Primal Rib
Hill Billy Rock East Face South Side F3 Hillbilly Rock, East Face Left
Ridge One Stairway to Heaven F5 * Printing error - not described in text.  From southern lowpoint, climb to roof (upper smaller roof on right, not massive roof with sport route), pass on left, follow ridge to summit.
Ridge Two East Face F6
Ridge Three Angel's Way F4
The Fifth Flatiron The Fifth Flatiron East Face North Side F4 Regular Route
East Face South Side F5 East Face Left
The Regency El Camino Real F3
The Fourth Flatiron The Fourth Flatiron East Face F5
Green Mountain Pinnacle West Chimney F6 * Taking Care of Business
Challenger East Face F5 The Spaceship, East Face
Yodeling Moves East Ridge and West Face F3 Hammerhead, East Ridge and Yodeling Moves
Tomato Rock F8 See Green Mountain Intro, Tomato Rock Trail.  Climb the boulder any way possible, book mentions N Face (tall people) and SE Face (shorter people).
The Third Flatiron The Third Flatiron East Face F4 * Standard East Face
East Face South Side F4 East Face Left, 5.5 variation
Friday's Folly F7 *
Winky Woo F5
Queen Anne's Head East Face F5
W.C. Fields Pinnacle A Very Ament's Slab F8 A Very Ament Slab
Morning After East Face F7 The Thing, East Face
The Second Flatiron The Second Flatiron Dodge Block F3 Not described by Rossiter.  Begin 200 feet up and left from lowpoint of 2nd.  Look for 10 foot step/roof about 200 feet up.  Climb through step via a slot, to summit of this piece (2nd Flatironette).  Descend to west, and climb slender blockette to north of the polished gully to the north of the obvious South Block.  Aim for tree below obvious Pullman Car, head right across gully and up steep wall, and then to top of route (north of Pullman Car.)  Step onto trail.
Freeway F3
Sunset Flatironette Chase the Sun F5
The First Flatiron The First Flatiron Baker's Way F4
East Face Center F6 * Direct East Face
North Arete F5
The Spy East Ridge F4
Gregory Amphitheater First Pinnacle Southeast Face F5 Southeast Arete
Second Pinnacle South Face F4 Southeast Face (5.2, #37)
T-Zero West Face F6 Finger Crack (5.5, #12)
West Bench Direct West Bench F6 Slot


NCCS to Yosemite Decimal Rating Translation Table
NCCS Decimal
F1 1st class
F2 2nd class and easy 3rd class
F3 hard 3rd class and 4th class
F4 5.0 to 5.2
F5 5.3 to 5.4
F6 5.5 to 5.6
F7 5.7
F8 5.8


Gerry Roach, Flatiron Classics, Fulcrum Inc, CO, 1990
ISBN 1-55591-017-3

Richard Rossiter, Rock Climbing the Flatirons, Falcon Publishing Inc, Montana, 1999
ISBN 1-56044-918-7


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