Gerry Roach's Flatiron Classics is the definitive guide for easy climbs in the Flatirons. In Rock Climbing the Flatirons, Richard Rossiter attempts to document all of the climbing in the Flatirons, especially the many difficult routes that Roach ignores. Roach's book is out of print, yet superior in its treatment of the easier routes. On this page I list the routes Roach designates as Classic and Top Ten, and include notes on doing these routes using Rossiter's guide. Also, Rossiter's ratings of the easier routes are often bogus, so I include Roach's ratings and his rating translation table.
Location | Rock | Route and Grade
(* = Top Ten) |
Rossiter Translation Notes |
---|---|---|---|
Boulder Mountain | The Matron | East Ridge F6 | |
North Face F6 * | North Face Center, do roof | ||
The Maiden | North Face F6 * | Standard Route | |
The Fatiron | East Face F5 * | ||
Tiny Tower | East Face F6 | ||
Central Shanahan Crag | Southeast Ridge of Southern Summit F3 | Shanahan Crags, Southeast Ridge | |
South Face F5 | Shanahan Crags, South Face | ||
The Slab | Diagonal F4 | Northeast Arete, do entire ridge | |
The Nebel Horn | Pellaea | East Face F6 * | |
Onoclea | East Face F5 | ||
Fiddle Head | East Face F5 | ||
Seal Rock | East Face South Side F5 | East Face Left | |
Dinosaur Mountain | Dinosaur Rock | East Face F5 | Rug Munchers. Climb to overhang on east face, climb obvious left/south facing slot. |
Southern Dinosaur Egg | Hatch F6 | ||
Northern Dinosaur Egg | Rehatch F6 | ||
Der Freischutz | Free Shot F2 | ||
South Ridge F3 | |||
Frontporch | Tiptoe Slab F4 | ||
Backporch | East Face F6 * | ||
FI | FI Fun F4 | ||
FO | Quadratic Equation F6 | ||
Skunk Canyon | Achean Pronouncement | East Face F7 | |
The Rainbow | Primal Rib F5 | The Dreadnaught, Primal Rib | |
Hill Billy Rock | East Face South Side F3 | Hillbilly Rock, East Face Left | |
Ridge One | Stairway to Heaven F5 * | Printing error - not described in text. From southern lowpoint, climb to roof (upper smaller roof on right, not massive roof with sport route), pass on left, follow ridge to summit. | |
Ridge Two | East Face F6 | ||
Ridge Three | Angel's Way F4 | ||
The Fifth Flatiron | The Fifth Flatiron | East Face North Side F4 | Regular Route |
East Face South Side F5 | East Face Left | ||
The Regency | El Camino Real F3 | ||
The Fourth Flatiron | The Fourth Flatiron | East Face F5 | |
Green Mountain Pinnacle | West Chimney F6 * | Taking Care of Business | |
Challenger | East Face F5 | The Spaceship, East Face | |
Yodeling Moves | East Ridge and West Face F3 | Hammerhead, East Ridge and Yodeling Moves | |
Tomato Rock | F8 | See Green Mountain Intro, Tomato Rock Trail. Climb the boulder any way possible, book mentions N Face (tall people) and SE Face (shorter people). | |
The Third Flatiron | The Third Flatiron | East Face F4 * | Standard East Face |
East Face South Side F4 | East Face Left, 5.5 variation | ||
Friday's Folly F7 * | |||
Winky Woo F5 | |||
Queen Anne's Head | East Face F5 | ||
W.C. Fields Pinnacle | A Very Ament's Slab F8 | A Very Ament Slab | |
Morning After | East Face F7 | The Thing, East Face | |
The Second Flatiron | The Second Flatiron | Dodge Block F3 | Not described by Rossiter. Begin 200 feet up and left from lowpoint of 2nd. Look for 10 foot step/roof about 200 feet up. Climb through step via a slot, to summit of this piece (2nd Flatironette). Descend to west, and climb slender blockette to north of the polished gully to the north of the obvious South Block. Aim for tree below obvious Pullman Car, head right across gully and up steep wall, and then to top of route (north of Pullman Car.) Step onto trail. |
Freeway F3 | |||
Sunset Flatironette | Chase the Sun F5 | ||
The First Flatiron | The First Flatiron | Baker's Way F4 | |
East Face Center F6 * | Direct East Face | ||
North Arete F5 | |||
The Spy | East Ridge F4 | ||
Gregory Amphitheater | First Pinnacle | Southeast Face F5 | Southeast Arete |
Second Pinnacle | South Face F4 | Southeast Face (5.2, #37) | |
T-Zero | West Face F6 | Finger Crack (5.5, #12) | |
West Bench | Direct West Bench F6 | Slot |
NCCS | Decimal |
F1 | 1st class |
F2 | 2nd class and easy 3rd class |
F3 | hard 3rd class and 4th class |
F4 | 5.0 to 5.2 |
F5 | 5.3 to 5.4 |
F6 | 5.5 to 5.6 |
F7 | 5.7 |
F8 | 5.8 |
Gerry Roach, Flatiron Classics, Fulcrum Inc, CO, 1990
ISBN 1-55591-017-3
Richard Rossiter, Rock Climbing the Flatirons, Falcon Publishing
Inc, Montana, 1999
ISBN 1-56044-918-7