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Smith Rock, Oregon

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I decided to take a week long trip to Smith Rock, Oregon, renowned for it's sport climbing. Smith Rock was the birthplace for American Sport climbing, with To bolt or not to be (5.14c) being the hardest route in America up until a few years ago. (It is still one of the hardest routes).
I drove 6 hours from Seattle, across spectacular mountains and arrived near Redmond, Oregon, where I pitched my tent in the middle of a cow pasture near the climbing area. My friend Robin arrived and began planning our climbs for the next day, when another climber Adrian found us and soon there were 3 of us.


I pitched my tent in a cow pasture at sundown and was woken every morning by "mooing".

Picture of Robin and Adrian getting ready for the first climb with Smith Rock group in the background.

Adrian being a little overprotective. Practicing Trad placement 101.

We had a great first day, and got a feel for the good climbing areas of Smith Rock. The next day, we ran into Brian from Bozeman, Montana and now had 4 people in our party. We did some great trad and sport climbs, including SpiderMan (5.7) and Pop goes the nubbin (5.10a).


Brian, Adrian, and I with MonkeyFace in the background..

Brian starting the first pitch of Spiderman (5.7).

Brian approaching the crux bulge on Spiderman's first pitch.

Adrian had to leave the next day, so Brian, Robin, and I decided to hit some more sport climbs on the shady side of Smith Rock.


Robin leading the first pitch of Cinnamon Slab (5.6).

Robin leading Benedictine Punk (5.7), one of our favourite climbs of the day.

Brian left and on our last day, Robin and I hit the climbs with gusto. In the final two days we gleamed Wherever I may roam (5.9) a five pitch classic, Cosmos (5.10a), Lion's Jaw (5.8), In Harm's way (5.8), and the stout Iguanas on Elm Street (5.10c)


Robin sending the 5th and final pitch of Wherever I may Roam (5.9). The sun is breaking over the summit.

Picture of Robin from the top of Wherever I may Roam.

Picture of me in front of the famous 'Snake Rock'.