These mix-and-match wardrobes are aimed at younger children, say in the 3-7 range. They are intended to teach them to maximize their wardrobes by buying coordinated separates. I don't use any particular pattern (that was one question). I make them for any kind of doll who comes my way, using any patterns that fit them. I *have* made so many for CPK's that I almost have a system for those, and lately I have been doing them for the FP My Friend dolls. You could equally well do them for an AGOT, but you would want to make them a little more sophisticated for an older child, I think. I use up remnants on these--I never, never, never go out and specifically buy fabric to make a set. I rummage through the stash. Make as many of the items reversible as possible--you get a lot more bang for your buck, in the sense of producing X amount of versatile garment changes in Y amount of sewing time. I try to include always a reversible vest or bolero and a reversible cloth hat. I often do a reversible dirndl skirt with an elasticized waist. I usually use three or four fabrics. Two prints and a solid, or two prints and two solids. The 1/16" gingham checks are so small that from a distance they almost look like a solid, and effectively, from a design standpoint, you can use them to replace a solid. The 1/8" gingham checks and larger count as prints for me. Start with the print(s). It's easier to find a solid to coordinate with a print than it is to find a print to coordinate with a solid. I call the prints my "transition" fabrics or "bridge" fabrics. One of my basic rules is: DO NOT TRIM THE BRIDGE FABRICS. That is, say you have a print in pink, tan, and dark green. If you leave it alone, it will coordinate with any of the three solids. If you trim it with ONE of those colors, it won't look quite right with the other two possible solids. Make your print items completely tailored. Put your trims (if any) on the solids. If you are doing an elaborate enough set, you can show how items can move from one coordinated "subset" to another. For example, I was using up a 1/4" check in royal blue, rust, gold, teal, and purple. The tailored items (blouse, skirt, and jumper in this case) can move from one subset, which is focused on gold, to another subset, which is focused on teal. Similarly, the tailored items in the pink/tan/dark green print can move from a subset focused on pink to a subset focused on khaki. A plain white blouse is invaluable in almost any mix-and-match set. Little accessories do a lot for these outfits--tote bags, bandannas, etc. I don't try to coordinate the nightgowns and/or pajamas with the rest of the wardrobe--they wouldn't be coordinated in the real world and there would be no point to it. That lets you use remnants for those items that don't "go with" any other piece of fabric in your stash.