Ms. Amna N. Ali
M. Omer Sheikh: 2003-02-0129 Thursday 12 th April, 2001
It would come as a surprise to many that being a resident of Lahore, I had never visited the Walled city. But here I was presented with a chance to visit the Walled city and I wouldn’t miss it for the world!
The trip downtown was spread over 2 days. The first day was spent visiting the Mall road, (now officially known as the Shahrah-e- QuaidAzam). The reason not being that it leads to the Walled city but for the fact that it has much to offer in terms of classic architecture that was actually “aesthetically” planned. A sight becoming rare in today’s Lahore. The first part of the proposed trip was just plain fun. There was pleasure to be derived just by looking at the buildings on the Mall and more satisfaction drawn from the fact that most of these buildings are now being restored to their original form and shape. But this is neither time nor space to delve further on the Mall, our destination being the historical Walled City of Lahore, period.
Day 2: The Walled City of Lahore
The day started off early (10 a.m. is early for people who are 20!). We were packed only with a camera and bottles of water, the mode of transport being a car. Cross the Mall, down to the lower Mall, take a right, then a left, pass Data Darbar and take a right at the next traffic signal. You are at the Taxali Gate, the Gate being lost somewhere in the crowded surroundings. Taxali gate can take you to the notorious Shahi Mohalla a.k.a. Heera Mandi and the Tibbi Mohalla, and we decide to stay clear of the former.
The first sight to greet us was that of some drug addicts in a Galli! They had filthy clothes, unkempt hair. I need not say more. We took the road that lead to the Tibbi Thanna (police station) on the right and just continued on our way. The Walled city was all around us. The old homes, with their wooden Jharokas, and balconies. Once glorious, now rotten. Shops underneath and a sea of people around.
Our trip was a ‘drive through’ trip and that was the fun part. Driving in a place where we had heard driving was next to impossible. We survived and encountered only a single ‘near dead-lock’! Since we were in a car, we passed mainly through the bazaars and not the Gallis, Kuchas and Guzars that are part of the residential areas and the smaller zones within the City. It’s the bazaars that give the place its life these days. From Barud Khana Bazaar to Langa Mandi Bazaar that specialized in Dholkis, Tabblas, Sitars etc. with the Pani Wala Talaab next to us. The famous “Phajay Kay Pai” eatery to our right. Hadn’t time to stop and eat. Gumti Bazaar, Kinari Bazaar and the Sooha Bazaar specialized in decorative wedding accessories and led to the Jauhari Bazaar famed for its jewellery shops. This was the Rang Mahal Chowk. The Sunehri Masjid and the Kashmiri Bazaar that housed items of everyday use, were next. And Lo and Behold, the Amazing Masjid Wazir Khan. What beauty and elegance. Yet so shamelessly neglected. The Delhli Gate Bazaar and the three ‘darwazaas’ of the Delhi gate lead us out of the city to the Circular road. A sudden feeling of openness. The darwazaas of the Delhi gate were themselves crying out for space. You actually had to look for them in the clutter of the surroundings. Inside it was just narrow streets, people, shops, workers, bull carts, cycles. Yet, the City was in there!
On the Circular road, we passed Akbari Gate and the Mochi Gate and headed for the Shah Alami Gate, which is the gate leading to the Shah Alami market. The market doesn’t have the old architecture of the Walled city, the design of its buildings being that of the 60’s & 70’s. A beautiful sight awaited. A lone green tree in the middle of the road leans to one side. Nature’s wild display in an urban jungle! On a count the bazaar had a total of 4 trees, all in the middle, 3 in absolute bad condition. Pollution does take its toll! There is a new multi-story parking plaza under construction and is much controversial. The road leads to the Rang Mahal Chowk, where we have been already, so we went around the chowk back to the other side of the Shah Alami Market road. A remnant of the old era, The Hindustan Commercial Bank building is in front towering above the make shift shops and thailas underneath. We head back at a snails pace. The Wagon Walaas honking their horns all around us. I gladly participate in raising the decibels in the area! Out of the city again on the Circular road we head for the Lohari Gate that leads to the Lohari Bazaar. The Gate itself is in a bay-like area, set back in the middle with encroachments all around. Inside this gate is where we nearly got stuck. Survived! The bazaar deals with the sale of meat products and vegetables etc. This was the most congested part we had seen. Tiny shops, thailas and the narrowest road. Still we drove! Lohari Mandi was next. A left turn someplace and we were back at the Tibbi Thanna. Decided to take another left. Tibbi Bazaar and Bazaar Hakimaan led us to the Bhatti Gate. Surprise. All the other gates that we had seen or not, were in a very bad shape. The Walls of the Walled city had been torn down by the British when they took over sub-continent and now the gates were hardly visible, covered with electric wires and posters and the soot and smog of the congested area. It appears that the gates mean nothing as historical objects to the residents of the area. The Bhatti Gate was very intact and was not bare to the bricks. It was painted white. Maybe because this area enjoyed a literate citizenry! We were finally out of the Walled city again.
I am telling myself to go back to the civilization we know. Go to MODERN Lahore! Why am I saying this? Isn’t old Lahore supposed to be awe-inspiring? Yes it is supposed to be but the condition it is in right now brings tears to eyes (of some) and disheartens you. Secondly, the dilapidated condition of the City makes it look lesser when you’ve just come after witnessing the grandeur of the Colonial buildings. You once again lose faith in the authorities as to whether or not they’ll be able to manage and maintain the old city or even the new one for that matter. Is it too much of a burden on them or do they simply not care…or have they got better things to do? Some one must have an answer.