REVISION HISTORY:

              July 16, 1995 - Initial version
              July 24, 1995 - Added Warning about STP octane booster.

     WARNING: What you do to your car is what you do to your car.

     WARNING: After finishing installation of these devices you will have
	      effectively eliminated your stock protection against
	      waste gate failure (unless there is some other stock system
	      that I am not aware of.)

     WARNING: increasing turbo boost above 17.5 psi is not recommended and 
	      could cause severe damage to either your turbo or engine or
	      both, unless you have made significant modifications to your
	      engine such that it could withstand such high boost pressures 
	      and that you have also installed some aftermarket superstock
	      turbo charger.

     WARNING: There seems to be a very narrow range of restrictor hole size
	      to turbo boost pressure correlation.  So if you decide to get
	      the Nth pound of boost from your turbo, then be very careful
	      in proceeding.  Remember there appears to be just over
	      .011 thousandths of an inch between just 2 pounds of additional
	      boost and boost that will destroy, a word to the wise.

     WARNING: the specific results that you obtain doing this proceedure will
	      depend on where you are in relation to sea level.  My tests were
	      done at or very near sea level.  I would suspect that if you
	      lived in Wyoming or Colorado that the specific boost that you
	      would get would be less than if you were at sea level.
	      There are also many other factors that will change the specific
	      boost that you get, all too many to mention in this article.

     NOTE: this proceedure asks you to disconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal
	   so if you have your security set on your radio, you will need to
	   go through the erase proceedure outlined in the owners manual
	   BEFORE you disconnect the negative battery terminal.

     NOTE: these proceedures make the following assumptions:

	   1. That you have already installed the HKS Super PowerFlow
	      air filter (for specific questions call HKS)

           2. That you have installed the Jacobs OmniPak ignition system with
	      Jacobs EnergyCore wires, and a Jacobs Solid Core OmniPak to
	      distributor center wire.

           3. That you have installed AC Delco RapidFire Spark Plugs properly
	      gaped to .035 and properly indexed them. 

	      

           4. That your stock boost level is specifically 10 psi to start with.

	   5. That you have a set of MR2 shop manuals (almost a must).

	   6. I used one bottle of STP octane booster before filling up (See below!)

     WARNING: from my experience, I would suggest NOT using 
              STP octane booster it could foul your plugs
              and give your car generally poor performance.
              In its place I might suggest using 104 octane booster.

     NOTE: Please consider all measurements, test results, readings and other
	   such data as APPROXAMATIONS, as each specific MR2 may or may not be
	   set up the same as mine, then your specific findings may or may not
	   be exactly the same, there are just too many varables in the
	   equation.

     TOOLS USED:

	  25 watt soldering iron
	  NOTE: HKS provides mechanical taps and bullet connectors which I 
		found would either make a questionable connection or would be
		very difficult to work with and install given the very limited
		space and wire length you will have to work with.
		This is part of the reason that I chose to solder all of my
		connections, thus I know for sure that they will not come loose
		and will be a good solid connection.

	  60/40 resin core solder
	  sharp knife
	  small #1 philips screw driver
	  drop light
	  10mm open end/box end wrench (wrapped with electrical tape)
	  roll of black electrical tape
	  10 inch #2 philips screw driver
	  pair of pliers
	  pair of long needle nosed pliers
	  small electric drill
	  small drill bit, specifically .0775 thousandths inch (4 psi boost)
	  small drill bit, specifically .0885 thousandths inch (2 psi boost)
	  10 lb bar bell plate or some similar weight object.

     PARTS PURCHASED:
	  
	  HKS Fuel Cut Defencer  
	  6.5 inches of 1/4 fuel line NOTE: 1/4 is ID of line not OD
	  low pressure welding gauge 0-30 psi range, with a standard
                                               1/8 NPT male fitting.
          

          Adapter to adapt male NPT fitting from gauge to 7/32 vacuum line.
	  10 to 12 feet of 7/32 (15.6mm) standard vacuum line.
	  small plastic tee that can adapt to 1/8 vacuum line and 7/32 line.
	  I used a small tee that had graduated increments on it such that
	  as you proceed up the length of one of the legs of the tee that it
	  gets progressively larger. 

	  small 2 inch piece of 1/8 vacuum line

	  Nylon Printed Circuit Board stand off, can be purchased at most good
	  electronics stores.
	  NOTE: specific size and design is critical to operation.
	  Specifically the Nylon standoff is:
	  .317 in diameter
	  1.250 long
	  center threaded holes (PART WAY THROUGH), threaded hole diameter
	  .107 inch, (NOTE: I do not know how important the size of the
			    threaded hole is to this operation. It may make no
			    difference at all.

          Substitutes could be used if you can not find a nylon PCB standoff.
	  I suspect that a piece of metal such as aluminum or brass or the like
	  would do just as well, as long as it as very near the same specific
          dimensions.

          OPTIONAL PARTS:

	       Two one inch pieces of 1/8 shrink tube
	       Two small 1/4 fuel line hose clamps
	       various sized drill bits in .001 or .002 thousandths increments
	       from .0885 down to as small as .0700

	       NOTE: I used a .061 thousandths hole in one of the restrictors
		     and it caused the boost to be able to go VERY MUCH 
		     HIGHER than 15 psi.  So I would warn against using a 
		     restrictor size hole that small.

     FIRST PROCEEDURE TO INSTALL THE HKS FCD (fuel cut defencer)

     Assemble all tools and parts needed, plug in your soldering iron and let
     it get hot. Open the front lid, and proceed to remove the spare tire.
     You should now see the battery.  Using your 10mm openend/boxend wrench
     loosen the RIGHT terminal (US cars), ie.(the terminal that does not have
     a red rubber cover over it.)  After loosening the nut, then wiggle the
     terminal off the battery post, and move it over to the side making sure 
     that it doesn't flop back and make connection or touch the negative post
     of the battery.

     Now proceed to open the rear trunk lid, and setup your drop light so that
     you can clearly see inside, start over on the left side ie.(drivers side)
     and note diagonally down from the small trunk light about 8 inches or so
     there is a black plastic push rivet, look up now towards the upper edge
     and as you look across the rest of the trunk you will notice 4 more 
     black push rivets, to remove them, use the small #1 philips or some
     small punch, and push gently on the center of the rivet, do not push it
     so hard that you push the center piece all the way through, push it only
     just an 1/8 inch or so, and you should feel it click slightly. Proceed
     across the trunk liner pushing the center pin and then pulling out each
     of the five push rivets.  Set them aside for now. Now pull down the trunk
     lining, along with the hard board backing piece that covers the PCME.
     Now using your 10 lb barbell plate, or some similar weight, put it down
     on the trunk lining to hold it out of your way while you work.

     The PCME is the large metal box in front of you now. There are three 
     connectors across the bottom of the PCME.  We will be installing the TAP
     wires first, and then the PIM wire last.

     Now we are going to mount the HKS FCD on the face of the PCME box using
     the HKS kit supplied double sided adhesive patch.  Peel off one side of
     the cover on the adhesive patch and stick it in the center of the 
     FCD, then peel off the other cover of the patch and press the FCD just
     about near top center on the PCME box.  You can pre-measure the wire
     lengths, but as mine mounted I did not have to cut any length of wire
     from any of the wires on the FCD.

     NOTE: before proceeding to pull out these connectors, please make sure
	   that you touch a good ground point, and make sure that you have
	   built up no static charge before touching these connectors.

     NOTE: unless you have a photographic mind, then deal with only ONE 
	   connector at a time. Never pull out all three connectors unless
	   you have your shop manuals.

     The locking tab for each of the connectors is front center, observe the
     left connector, and push the lock tab in and at the same time pull down
     (wiggling), the plug, and it should come out of its female receiver.

     Now NOTE:  connector orientation is critical to this operation, there are
     two different views, one that the HKS instructions show, and one that the
     shop manuals show.  I had to use both to make sure that I had the
     connector oriented properly.  The HKS diagram shows the plug as though
     the lock tab were on top, with the wires pointing out at you.  Of course
     this is completely different than the way the plug naturally comes out of
     the PCME.  As the plug comes out of the PCME, and you just push the plug
     downwards, the lock tab is on the bottom of the connector, and the wires
     are going away from you.  So in order to get HKS's view, you would have to
     pull the connector, and then loop bend it back so that the lock tab is
     on top and the wires are pointing at you.

     Now the shop manual diagram is completely different than that, in the 
     shop manual the connectors are shown with the lock tab on top but with 
     the wires going back away from you, and the front of the connector
     pointing towards you.

     So it is important that you have it clear in your mind the proper 
     orientation of the connector so that you get the proper wire.
     As it would probably use up volumes of explaination, I will leave this
     up to you and hope that the above info is sufficient for you to
     make sure that you have the proper wires selected.  In my case I had to
     correlate between the two diagrams inorder to make sure that I had the
     proper wire.

     NOTE: on each of the connectors I had to remove black tape that is used
     to bundle the wire group together inorder to have sufficient space to
     work with the wire.  Remove this stock black tape as necessary to get at
     the wire bundles. I did not think it necessary to replace the tape after
     finishing this proceedure.

     Nuff said about that, now on with the show.  As you have now pulled out
     the left connector from the PCME, orient the connector such that you can
     find the E1 ground wire.  The E1 ground wire is brown and we will be 
     connecting the black wire from the FCD to it.  After you have properly
     isolated the brown E1 wire on the connector then using a knife, carefully
     shave off about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of insulation down about 3/4 inch from
     where it comes out of the connector body.  DO NOT CUT THE E1 WIRE.
     This is a TAP joint.  

     After having removed the portion of insulation on the brown E1 wire then
     wrap the already stripped end of the black wire from the FCD to the
     brown E1 wire.  Make a fairly good mechanical connection, and then using
     your solder iron and a little solder, solder the connection.  

     Now take a small strip of black electrical tape, 1/4 inch wide, and about
     an inch and a half long, and wrap the connection.  When you are satisfied
     with the connection, then position the plug and press it back into place
     in the female connector on the PCME, make sure that the lock tab clicks
     in place.

     Now we are ready to do the second tap connection on the right connector.
     Focus on the right most connector on the PCME and press the lock tab down
     and pull and wiggle the connector out.  Once this is done than using the
     HKS diagram and your shop manual get the connector properly oriented so
     that you can find the +B battery wire.  The +B wire is a Black/yellow
     striped wire.  Orient the connector and find the wire.  After you have 
     isolated the wire, then doing basically as before, eye-ball a distance
     just down from the connector body about 1/2 to 3/4 inch and shave off 
     about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of insulation from the wire. DO NOT CUT THE WIRE.
     After you have done this then find the red wire comming off the HKS FCD
     and make a good mechanical wrap onto the black/yellow striped +B wire.

     Now using your soldering iron and solder, solder the connection.  
     Orient the wires now so that you can wrap your electrical tape on them
     and using a 1/4 wide piece of electrical tape about an inch and a half
     long, and wrap the connection.  When you are satisfied with the
     connection then position the connector on the female connector on the 
     PCME and press it back into place making sure that the lock tab click in
     place.

     Now we are ready to do the last connection, the PIM wire on the center
     PCME connector.  So now press the center connector lock tab and pull and
     wiggle the connector down out of the female connector on the PCME and
     orient it so that you can find the Light-Blue PIM wire.  It is the only
     Light-Blue wire on the connector so it is really not hard to find.
     You will have to remove the black electrical tape that came stock on the
     wire bundle to give youself sufficient room to work with the wire.

     Isolate the wire and half way between where it comes out of the connector
     and where it disappears back into the wire bundle then cut the wire at
     that halfway point.  This cut should leave you sufficient room to now
     strip about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch length of insulation from each end of this
     Light-Blue PIM wire.

     NOTE: at this point if you opt to you can use a small piece of 1/8 inch
	   shrink tube to seal these connections if you wish otherwise you
	   can wrap them with electrical tape as you did the others.
	   If you do use shrink tube make sure that you put the piece on
	   over the wire before you solder them together.

     Once that is done then find the yellow wire comming from the HKS FCD and
     make a good mechanical wrap together of the wire comming directly from
     the PCME connector.  Wrap this yellow and half of the Light-Blue wires
     together and then using your solder iron and a little solder, solder these
     two wires together.

     Now either heat your shrink tube or wrap the connection with a small 1/4
     inch wide about 1.5 inch long piece of electrical tape.

     We are ready to connect the other half of the PIM wire to the White wire
     comming out of the FCD.  So wrap these two wires together, the white FCD
     wire, and the other half of the Light-Blue PIM wire as it comes out of the
     wire bundle.  Of course either first sliping over the wire your shrink
     tube, or wait and wrap the connection with tape.

     After you have secured both connections of the PIM wire and you are
     satisfied with the connections then position the connector and press it
     back up into place in the female connector on the PCME.  Making sure that
     the lock tab clicks in place.

     Now check your work, and make sure that you are satisfied with the wiring.

     Now do a little clean up work, and you are ready to put the trunk liner
     back in place.  Press the trunk liner back up in place and then find one
     of the push rivets and slide the center pin up so that the blunt end of
     the center pin extends about 1/8 inch or so up above the flat top piece.
     Then carefully press the rivet back into the hole starting in the left
     corner and working your way across the trunk.  Press the center pin so 
     that it is flat with the top of the rivet top and it is in place.
     Check the right side of the trunk liner where it is cut for the trunk
     hinge, I had just a little trouble putting this area back in place.

     Now after cleaning up the rear trunk area, we are ready to put the 
     Negative terminal back on the battery, so position the negative terminal
     on the battery post and using the 10mm openend/boxend wrench tighten down
     the nut on the terminal.  Make sure it is nice and tight.

     Now replace your spare tire, and at the same time you might check the
     air pressure on the tire and make sure it is up to the correct pressure.

     Now you can start the car and observe that the engine runs normally.

     =======================================================================

     Proceedures to increase stock turbo charger boost.

     NOTE: again this proceedure assumes that your stock boost pressure is
	   at 10 psi, of course if it is different you will obtain different
	   results.

     We will first manufacture our restrictor.  locate your 6.5 inch piece
     of 1/4 fuel line, your nylon stand off, and your drill bit of choice
     either the .0885 for two pounds of boost above stock, or the .0775 drill
     bit for four pounds of boost above stock.

     Locate your nylon PCB standoff, and making sure that the center threaded
     hole is not all the way through, chuck up your drill bit of choice and
     carefully drill out the center of your nylon standoff.  

     Now locate your 6.5 inch piece of 1/4 inch fuel line, and cut it exactly
     in half, now where you cut it press one half of the fuel line on the
     nylon stand off, and press the other half of the fuel line on the
     remaining half of the nylon standoff so that you now have one continuous
     assembly.  If you have the proper size diameter nylon standoff then it
     should press fit into the inside of the 1/4 fuel line very tightly such
     that there is no chance that it will slide off.  If you are concerned 
     then I would suggest using the optional small 1/4 inch fuel line hose
     clamps at this time and clamp one down on each side of where the nylon
     standoff is located in the center of the hose assembly.

     We will be using the stock hose clamps from the stock waste gate actuator
     hose to secure the ends of our new restrictor hose assembly.

     In order to get at the waste gate actuator hose we will have to move 
     a few things out of the way first.

     Proceed to lay out your tools as you will need them and open the engine
     compartment, and as you are on the drivers side (US), lean over and
     observe the large hose assembly as it comes off the mouth of the intake
     side of the turbo charger.  Using a long 10 inch #2 philips screw driver
     loosen the hose clamp that tightens down on the mouth of the intake side
     of the turbo.  NOTE: don't do as I did and drop the screw driver down 
     behind the turbo charger housing, and take an additional 30 minutes to
     retrieve it.

     On my engine this end of the large rubber assembly easily came off the
     turbo charger mouth.  Now, look up and over to where the hard plastic
     elbow goes into the short rubber piece that connects to the air flow
     meter.  Loosen the hose clamp on the elbow side.  This elbow was just
     a little sticky even from when I pulled it off when installing the
     HKS powerflow.

     Now you will observe about halfway down this assembly two hoses one large
     one small going into the side of the large rubber hose piece. One of
     the smaller hoses is from the PCV valve the other is a metal hose/pipe
     that comes up and into the air bypass valve.  This is personal preference
     but disconnect one end or the other of both of these hoses, I chose to
     disconnect the air bypass valve up top side because the screw hose clamp
     is much easier to get at than the squeeze clamp down on the large rubber
     hose assembly.  I also chose to disconnect the PCV valve where it comes
     out of the large rubber hose assembly, and slide the two inch long pipe
     connected to it out of the side.

     Once this is done then you can wiggle loose the entire large rubber hose
     assembly including the hard plastic elbow, and pull it off the turbo
     charger mouth and at the other end pull the hard plastic elbow out of
     the end of the air flow meter. Set this assembly aside for now.

     Now you have sufficient working space to get at the waste gate actuator
     hose.  Observe a small fitting with a rubber hose attached comming out
     of the upper right side of the turbo charger, it then loops a short loop
     over to the small fitting on the LEFT side of the waste gate.

     Using a pair of pliers carefully squeeze the hose clamp on the turbo side
     fitting, and pull the hose off this turbo fitting.  Then making sure
     that you have a firm grip on the hose, proceed to squeeze the hose clamp
     on the left side of the waste gate, and pull the hose off this fitting.
     NOTE: I used a long pair of needle nosed pliers to get at the hose clamp
	   on the waste gate side, as it is fairly tight quarters.

     You should now have a very short sort of U shaped piece of hose.
     Remove the two hose clamps one on either end of the hose and set the hose
     piece aside. NOTE: I did not modify the stock hose piece incase I want to
     at some later date replace it.

     Now locate your manufactured restrictor hose and slide one hose clamp on
     either side of it.  Slide them down about a half inch or so.  

     Holding your manufactured restrictor hose in your left hand (I'm right
     handed), press one end of the hose up onto the left side waste gate
     fitting.  You will have to use a small pair of long needle nose pliers and 
     squeeze the hose clamp and at the same time pushing with your left hand 
     and pulling with your right, slide the hose up onto the fitting as far as
     it will go.  Now squeeze the hose clamp and slide it up just a ways so
     that it is about 1/2 inch down from the end of the hose.

     Now press on the other end of the hose onto the turbo charger fitting.
     Squeeze the hose clamp and slide it up to within about a half inch of
     the top of the hose.

     Now check and make sure that the hose is on good. Once you are sure then
     proceed to reposition the air intake assembly placing it on the turbo
     charger mouth and then sliding the hard plastic elbow back into the
     air flow meter.  Tighten the two large hose clamps and then position and
     insert the air bypass hose, and the PCV hose in place and tighten their
     respective hose clamps.

     Check your work.

     Now locate your test boost gauge (0-30 psi welding gauge), your 10-12
     foot piece of 7/32 vacuum line, and your small plastic tee and short
     two inch piece of 1/8 vacuum line.

     Now we are ready to hook up our test boost gauge so that we can check the
     actual boost the turbo is making.  In the turbo charger section of your
     shop manual on page EG-202 is a good diagram of where the welding gauge
     needs to be inserted in line with the intake manifold and the absolute
     pressure sensor.  Look into the engine compartment on the passengers side
     (US), and observe where the little dianostic port is, look just over and
     then down from this.  The dianostic port is at the rear of the engine
     compartment up and across from the engine oil fill cap.
     You will notice a small 1/8 inch rubber hose comming down and a small 
     white plastic knob inserted in it. Pull the 1/8 rubber hose off the
     right side of the white plastic knob looking piece, then with a small 
     piece of 1/8 rubber hose on the plastic tee you purchased, connect one
     side of the tee to the end of the white plastic knob looking piece.
     Now press the end of the line that was on the white plastic knob
     looking piece on to the other end of your tee.  The 7/32 vacuum line
     should be at the center of the tee, and then going over to your test
     gauge. Position the hose and tee assembly so that it does not have any
     kinks in it and then gently close, but don't completely close the
     engine lid.  The engine lid should be resting on the top part of the lock
     such that there is more than sufficient gap that the 7/32 vacuum line
     connected to the test gauge can come up out of the engine compartment and
     not ge squeezed.  I brought the hose then across the lower end of the
     passenger side rear window, and secured it to the window glass with
     a small piece of duct tape, then roll the passengers window partly down
     and allow the hose and the gauge to go inside the car.

     You are now ready to make your test boost readings.  I would highly 
     recommend at this point, unless you can divide your attention, that you
     have an assistant help you make the readings and help warn you if the
     reading goes above 15 psi or so.  

     Take the car out and bring the car into full boost CAREFULLY AT FIRST,
     and see what the boost reading is.  If it is where you want it to be then
     no further work need be done, just remove your test gauge and replace the
     small 1/8 hose back to the proper place, and your done.
     Otherwise you are going to have to backup in the proceedure and remove the
     restrictor and drill out or make a new smaller one to bring the boost
     into the range you desire.

     WARNING AGAIN:  be very careful not to exceed 17.5 psi boost on a stock
                     3S-GTE engine.  When conducting your tests ease up on the
		     boost making sure that you do not exceed this maximum
		     limit.

     Now enjoy the dramatic increase in power that your MR2 will have.