Project Jeep - Part II

Here's what the new rebuilt head looks like. Nothing fancy, just rebuilt to stock specs. (Note: Under the head lies the flywheel which was balanced at the machine shop along with everything else in the engine that moves including the clutch and harmonic balancer.)
If you are using new pistons, have the machinist push them on to the rods. The machinist can also check your rods to make sure they are OK. One of mine was out of round and had to be reconditioned.

Here's the engine block complete with freeze plugs and cam bearings installed by the machinist. (Note: The oil filter mount on the block.)

This next shot shows your dear old webmaster (aka shadetree mechanic) torquing down the main cap bearings. You need to follow the torque specs in the manual closely. Don't forget to use plastigauge to doublecheck the machinist's work and to make sure you have adequate oil clearance between the bearings and the crankshaft.
The next step involves installing the rings into the pistons after checking the ring end gaps. I set the rings into the cylinder, square them with the top of a piston and then measure the gap. A small file can be used on the rings to get them into spec. Some shops also have small tools for this operation.
Then, place the pistons into the cylinders using a ring compressor and plenty of lube. I always put a little rubber tubing over the rod bolts first to avoid nicking the crankshaft. After using plastigauge to double check oil clearance on the rod bearings, torque the pistons to spec.

Your crankshaft should come back to you in a plastic bag like in this picture. It helps to keep it clean and free from nicks.

Here's a top down view of the block following installation of the pistons. Note the number one piston is at top dead center. A good place to keep the engine as you install the flywheel/clutch and timing chain to prepare for reinstalling the distributor.
The next step involves bolting down the head. Use a manual for the correct sequence and torque spec.

Here's the completed engine following some detail work. Note the water pump, thermostat housing, intake/exhaust manifold and carb are all installed. The seal for the timing chain and where it marries up with the oil pan gasket are more signs of psychotic Mopar engineers!
The next step is to get the engine off the engine stand (note the engine hoist chain is mounted) and bolt on the flywheel and clutch. I rented a clutch alignment tool for a quick operation. It worked like a champ.
Then, it is time to drop it into the engine bay and marry it up with the tranny. The key to a quick reinstall is making sure the engine is as level as you can get it while hanging from the hoist. I used plenty of grease on the tranny spline and it married up quick and easy!

I'll add a picture of the engine mounted back in the vehicle later. For now, I've got a bout 500 miles on the motor and it is running like a champ! The exhaust sounds great and the new clutch to include master cylinder and hydraulic throwout bearing make driving a fun experience again!

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Here's what the new rebuilt head looks like. Nothing fancy, just rebuilt to stock specs. (Note: Under the head lies the flywheel which was balanced at the machine shop along with everything else in the engine that moves including the clutch and harmonic balancer.) If you are using new pistons, have the machinist push them on to the rods. The machinist can also check your rods to make sure they are OK. One of mine was out of round and had to be reconditioned.

	Here's the engine block complete with freeze plugs and cam bearings installed by the machinist. (Note: The oil filter mount on the block.)

This next shot shows your dear old webmaster (aka shadetree mechanic) torquing down the main cap bearings. You need to follow the torque specs in the manual closely. Don't forget to use plastigauge to doublecheck the machinist's work and to make sure you have adequate oil clearance between the bearings and the crankshaft. The next step involves installing the rings into the pistons after checking the ring end gaps. I set the rings into the cylinder, square them with the top of a piston and then measure the gap. A small file can be used on the rings to get them into spec. Some shops also have small tools for this operation. Then, place the pistons into the cylinders using a ring compressor and plenty of lube. I always put a little rubber tubing over the rod bolts first to avoid nicking the crankshaft. After using plastigauge to double check oil clearance on the rod bearings, torque the pistons to spec.

	Your crankshaft should come back to you in a plastic bag like in this picture. It helps to keep it clean and free from nicks.

Here's a top down view of the block following installation of the pistons. Note the number one piston is at top dead center. A good place to keep the engine as you install the flywheel/clutch and timing chain to prepare for reinstalling the distributor. The next step involves bolting down the head. Use a manual for the correct sequence and torque spec.

	Here's the completed engine following some detail work. Note the water pump, thermostat housing, intake/exhaust manifold and carb are all installed. The seal for the timing chain and where it marries up with the oil pan gasket are more signs of psychotic Mopar engineers! The next step is to get the engine off the engine stand (note the engine hoist chain is mounted) and bolt on the flywheel and clutch. I rented a clutch alignment tool for a quick operation. It worked like a champ. Then, it is time to drop it into the engine bay and marry it up with the tranny. The key to a quick reinstall is making sure the engine is as level as you can get it while hanging from the hoist. I used plenty of grease on the tranny spline and it married up quick and easy!

I'll add a picture of the engine mounted back in the vehicle later. For now, I've got a bout 500 miles on the motor and it is running like a champ! The exhaust sounds great and the new clutch to include master cylinder and hydraulic throwout bearing make driving a fun experience again!