EXPEDITION

Introduction:

Nepal is a country well known for its Himalaya mountains. Among the ten highest peak in the world, eight, including the highest peak Mt. Everest, crown this country. Nothing on earth can beat the exhilaration of scaling them. No wonder Nepal is the favorite destination for mountaineers and every year more than 600 expeditions trudge up the Himalaya, including the trekking peaks.

The sport of expedition came into vogue in Nepal after 1930s. Expeditions were chiefly launched from the Tibetan side of the Himalayan range and attempting the major prize first were mainly centred on Everest.

After the second world war, greater influence in the west, improved equipment, skills and oxygen apparatus together with an opening of Nepal led to a series of new assaults both to Everest and other peaks.

In 1951, a reconnaissance expedition included amongst its members the New Zealand climber Edmund Hillary and a Swiss expedition in 1952 sent Sherpa climber Tenzing Norgay to 7800 m. Finally, in 1953, John Hunt's British team succeeded in getting Tenzing and Hillary to the highest spot on the earth.

Once conquered, success on the Everest followed repeatedly. A Swiss expedition reached the top in 1956 and in 1960. It was the turn of a party from the People's Republic of China. Members of the massive America expedition in 1963 found the Chinese flag on summit in 1965 and in 1970, a Japanese team not only reached the top but sent one fearless climber back own on skis! Several more attempts included a successful Italian team in 1973 and the Japanese women's party. An American amputee became the first disabled man to climb Everest in 1998.

Other Himalayas peaks had also been comprehensively attacked in the fifties and sixties.

Expedition  is now looked upon by the govt. of Nepal as a useful source of income as well as a generator of publicity – the higher the peak the greater the fee. It now costs US.$ 70,000.00 for an expedition to climb Everest. Most of the climbing is done during the autumn.

Seasons

There are four mountaineering seasons: spring ( March- May), summer ( June-August), autumn ( September – November) and winter ( December- February). A total of 153 Himalayan peaks are open to mountaineer. Climbing permits by the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation (MoTCA) for 135 peaks known as trekking peaks, which range from 5,587 to 6654 m in altitude.

Permission

The following documents have to be  sent to MoTCA, Mountaineering Division when applying for a climbing permit; completed application, endorsement of the National Alpine Club, short biographies of all the members of the expedition ( with photograph and signature), map and/or photograph of the mountain indicating climbing route and approach route map. Enlistment of the expedition's name does not required any fee and it should not be paid before receiving the permit from the Ministry of Tourism.

Permits to climb the 18 trekking peaks are issued by NMA on "first come first served" basis. It is necessary to appoint a government recognized trekking agency of Nepal as local liaison for the expedition in Kathmandu. The trekking agency will look after all the requirements during the expedition.

Fees

A royalty ( climbing fee ) ranging from US$ 1,500 to US$ 10,000 ( depending on the altitude of the peak) and US$ 50,000 for Everest is charged by MoTCA for a group of seven persons. An additional US$ 20,000 is charged for the normal south east ridge route on Everest. An additional US$ 200 to 1,500 per person (US$ 10,000 per person for Everest) will be charged if the group exceeds seven persons. The full amount of the royalty has to be paid within two months of the date of issue of the permit, otherwise it may be canceled. The royalty must be paid directly to MoTCA by bank draft or bank transfer in convertible foreign currency only.

For a trekking peaks, a royalty of US$ 150 is charged by NMA. The permit is valid for a period of one month for a group of up to 10 persons. An additional amount of US$ 7.50 per person is charged if the group exceeds 10 person.

A rebate of up to 40% on the royalty may be given during the summer and winter seasons. Full or partial rebate for a fixed period may be given for new peaks or for unclimbed open peaks, on "first come first served" basis.

Restrictions

Food and equipment imported for expeditions require an import license and should be custom cleared. Walkie-talkies, transceiver sets and other communication equipment are controlled items in Nepal and have to be declared at the customs office at the entry point.

Until recently only one expedition was allowed on any given peak in each season – the post monsoon and pre–monsoon part of the dry season. This rule has now been relaxed and more than one party can climb at once.

It is estimated that more than 80 Nepali men had climbed Everest as part of expeditions from different condition. Being the country of Everest, may Nepalese hold records on Everest?

There are still many major peaks that have not been successfully climbed and some that have not ever been attempted. This includes the famous fish tailed peak seen from Pokhara – Machhapuchhre.

There are also 18 peaks – all under 7,000 meters called trekking peaks for which climbing permits are given by Nepal Mountaineering Association.

The permit for these trekking peaks for these trekking peaks cost US $300. The permit is valid for one month for a group of up to ten persons. The most popular of such peaks are 6160 m. Island Peak ( Imja Tse) and Mera peak 6654 m. in the Everest area. These are possible to climb as an organized trek from our company.

Kathmandu's trekking shops have so much quality equipment gleaned from the leftovers of major expedition that a small party could be equipped right there.

There are some 122 peaks in Nepal alone now open to foreign expeditions climbers continue to seek out first ascents of unclimbed peaks or new and more difficult routes up popular mountains. There are, however, many smaller expeditions and climbing teams attempting more modest climbs but with the growth in numbers on the major peak rubbish and overcrowding here become significant problems.

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