But after a few days of being sociable, I’m dragged away by my skipper who insists we have to visit Grass Island now. I went here last year and the people are a bit crazy and are seriously into putting spells on each other, so I’m looking forward to it.

We meet Hugh and his parrot Cecil, Hugh wants to trade with Hans for a secondhand sail in return for baggi, the traditional shell jewelry. He comes out to the boat to check things out but never actually gets around to the negotiations, I suspect the baggi haven’t actually been made yet….

One afternoon I make the mistake of going ashore with some lipstick and nail polish for the kids. Within 5 minutes I’m mobbed by crowds of small excited children who proceed to smear themselves from head to foot in sparkly pink cosmetics, obviously never having heard the term ‘less in more’ or having any concept of a subtle approach to make-up. Actually, they look a complete mess and I wonder if I’m going to have to deal with a crowd of angry mothers later who might put spells on me, but thnkfully nobody cares.

We also meet Peter and Barbara, who’ve known Hans a long time. They’re building themselves a new house out of sago palm. Peter’s the local church minister, he wants to live further away from the church as his parishioners are visiting him too much and he wants some peace and quiet from them. At the moment they’re living in their old cook house while the new house is being built - their teenage daughter isn't too happy about this arrangement....

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