When we visit the village the people are very quiet at first and stare at us, but with a bit of encouragement they start chatting. There’s a lot of children running around, as with all PNG villages, we find out they were sent home from school the day before as someone in the village had died. However, when they arrived they found that the person in question was still alive and they all had to go back to school again. Later the same day the priest arrived from the mission station on Nimoa for the funeral, he had to turn round and go home again as well. The following day we take the boat out to the reef and go diving – some very big sharks, barracuda, spanish mackerel and trevally, I make sure I keep my back to the bommies and keep checking over my shoulder.

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