Spanish Wines and Recipes
As a handy tool for sorting out wine-grape varieties, is to categorize wine grapes by their aromatic level. While just about every grape has its characteristic aromas, the Spanish Albarino is one of the white-wine grapes that considered HIGHLY aromatic, along with Viognier, Gewurztraminer, Muscat and a few others: grapes that yield wines with aromas that seem to leap out of the glass and shout their name.
Albarino is pronounced "Ahl-bah-reen-yo" and spelled with a wiggly 'tilde' over the n that I won't reproduce here since some software has problems with it. Albarino is grown primarily in the section of Galicia in northwestern Spain called Rias Baixas, meaning "Lower Rivers" in the local Gallego dialect. Directly across the border in Portugal, the same grape is called Alvarinho and sometimes used in Vinho Verde, a wine we reviewed in the May 18, 2001 Wine Advisor Express.
These damp and rainy regions produce grapes with thick skins, and this, experts say, accounts for Albarino's naturally aromatic flavors. It's no surprise that the acidic white wines from this coastal area make natural companions with seafood and fish.
Today's wine is one of the pricier Albarinos, still a fair bargain by the standards of premium wines. Other widely distributed Albarinos come from Martin Codax and Burgans.
Morgadio 2000 Rias Baixas Albarino ($15.99)
Very pale gold in color, this Spanish white offers ripe pear and peach aromas with floral notes, aromatic and full. Its crisp and fresh flavors focus on pears and snappy citrus, cleansing and tart, with a slight, pleasant bitter-almond note in the finish. U.S. importer: Classical Wines from Spain, Seattle. (July 4, 2001)
FOOD MATCH: Its full aromas and zippy acidity make it a natural match with alder-smoked salmon with tiny new potatoes and a yogurt sauce laced with dill.
Grapes:
There are a great variety of grapes that have their root in Spain and the grape, obviously, is a very important part of the process and also of the result! Knowing some information about the grapes used in the creation of wine is good to have when examining a label before choosing. Here is a list of all Spanish grapes, their origin of region, and a little bit about each one.
Whites:
* Airen: Mainly found in Valdepeņas and La Mancha. Fruity, fresh and easy to drink.
* Albarino: Galician grape. Rich, complex, elegant, and velvety.
* Chardonnay: Originating in France-Cataluņa, Navarre, and Aragon use this subtle, smoky, yet intense classic grape.
* Godello: Overshadowed by the Albarino-this Galician grape produces more delicate and flowery wines.
* Gewurztraminer: Exotic fruits, flowers, herbs, and a touch of spice.
* Hondarribi zuri: Citric grape from the Basque.
* Lado: Subtle, yet rare grape located in the D.O. Ribeiro.
* Listan: Variety of the Palomino Fino grape found in the Canary Islands. Gives a range of salty, dry and nutty flavors.
* Loureiro: From Galicia-very aromatic and complex. A rare form exists in red as well.
* Macabeo: Known by this name in Catalonia or "Virua," in La Rioja, Navarre, and Aragon. Aromas range (depending on area) from fruity to underwood.
[White Grapes]
* Malvasia: Valencia, Aragon, and the Canary Isles. This is the oldest grape found in Spain. It has also made its way into several other Mediterranean countries producing a scented sweet white wine.
* Moscatel: The grape of the Mediterranean, in which Spain is lucky to have the richest abundance. Found most frequently in Alicante, Malaga, and the Canary Islands, the moscatel offers an aroma reminiscent of raisins and is generally used to produce sweet wines.
* Palomino Fino: Jerez has made this grape famous in Andalusia but it can be found as well in Castille-Leon and Galicia.
* Parellada: One of the key grapes used to make the Cavas.
* Pedro Ximenez: Predominates in the South of Spain making sweet wines tasting of raisins.
* Sauvignon Blanc: Characteristic for producing aromas such as berries, grapefruit, wild flowers, and mint.
* Treixadura: One of the great Galician grapes and also the grape used in the production of the best of the whites made in D.O. Ribeiro.
* Verdejo: This grape is definitely one of the greatest of the whites found in the Rueda wine region next to the River Duero. It provides a full range of sensations and a good, persistent body with great character.
* Virua: The same as the Macabeo grape (see earlier description) and known under this name usually in the regions of La Rioja, Navarre, and Aragon.
* Xarel.Io: This is the third grape used to make Cavas and tends to give the Cavas strong body and build. This grape is mostly found in Cataluņa and is also known as "Pansa Blanca" in the region of Alella. The use of this grape also allows its wines to mature in the bottle over a period of many years.
God in His goodness sent the grapes, to cheer both great and small; little fools will drink too much, and great fools not at all. --anonymous.
* Carinena: Tends to be found in greatest abundance in the regions of Cataluņa and Aragon but can also be found in La Rioja. It is appreciated for its intense color and high yields and for the strength that it adds to the Tempranillo grape in La Rioja. As per this example in La Rioja, many wineries tend to use this grape in combination with others to add more characteristics like that of a velvety texture to different wines.
* Cencibel: See the later description of the Tempranillo grape for this one. It has the same characteristics but is called this name in the region of La Mancha.
* Garnacha: Found from Gerona to Alicante in Valencia and extends up to the Ebro Valley into Aragon and La Rioja. It is known for its low acidity and ability to contribute alcoholic content and body to wine. If given the right treatment this easily grown, highly resistant grape (withstands even some of the worst climatic conditions) is capable of producing many high quality red wines.
* Graciano: Loved in the region of La Rioja, the wine producers combine this grape with the Tempranillo to give them acidity and tannins and good breed. It tends to be blended because of its scarce quantities since it is extremely sensitive to damp conditions.
* Listan Negro: This grape is only found in the Canary Islands and especially in the northern part of the island of Tenerife. It produces young, fresh reds that tend to be very aromatic and fruity. Only recently has this grape been gaining status among wine makers.
* Mazuela: Also called Mazuelo it is a variety of the Carinena grape described earlier.
[Red Grapes]
* Mencia: This is the great red grape of the Spanish Northeast. It tends to produce wines with a velvety texture and a unique bouquet.
* Merlot: This imported grape has a had a great impact on Spanish wine. Navarra and Cataluņa have done the most work in importing and using this grape and have produced interesting warm, soft, and velvety wines. The grape can also be found in some areas of Aragon and small sections of the Ribera del Duero.
* Monastrell: A tough resistant grape that has been used more and more especially in the Levant area of Valencia and has been found to combine very well with Cabernet Sauvignon and the Syrah grapes. It is becoming more well known and appreciated for its abilities to withstand periods of both draught and frost.
* Moristel: This grape is the main variety of those found in Aragon. It produces young, fresh wines with a pleasant texture.
* Negramoll: A second grape found in the Canary Islands and especially in Tenerife, which contributes freshness, aromatic qualities, and softness to red wines.
* Prieto Picudo: Very common in the regions of Leon and Zamora in the Castillian planes and known for producing wines with medium robe and flowery aromas. Like the Monastrell variety, it is extremely adaptive to both frost and drought, which only further adds to its appreciation.
* Syrah: Found in the lower plains of Catalonia, this grape adapts very well to these dry growing regions.
* Tempranillo: King of La Rioja and the Ribera del Duero (known here as Tinto Fino or Tinta del Pais). Tempranillo is the most excellent of the Spanish reds. As mentioned before, it is also called Cencibel in La Mancha and also Ull de Llebre in Cataluņa. It is capable of producing wines from a medium to a strong sturdy body and has great characteristics, which allow it to age for years in oak. It can even be held in a stock for over thirty years and produce intensely vigorous and deliciously refined red wines. In all of its regions and names, this grape is the prized jewel of Spain.
* Tinta de Toro: Experts claim this grape to be a subspecies of the Tempranillo that has come about as a result of a specific adaptation to the Toro region of Zamora. Although it does not give a high yield, it produces wines of high color, and powerful build, tastiness, and complexity. In the up and coming years more will be heard from the Tinta de Toro.
* Tinto Fino: See Tempranillo.
* Ull de Llebre: See Tempranillo.
Bodegas Senorans
When considering white wines, Spain is rarely on top of anyone list. A mixture of antiquated wine making facilities and general apathy on behalf of the growers has done little to remedy the situation. One region in Spain, however, has in recent times gained an ever-growing reputation for producing high quality, aromatic white wines - Galicia. Situated in the north-eastern corner of Spain and bordered by the Atlantic, this lush and fertile region takes its food from the water and consequently the local white wine industry has thrived based upon its own, unique variety the Albarino. Within this scenic area lie the DOs of Ribiero, Ribeira Sacra and Rias Baixas, which turn out delicious, aromatic dry whites that are slowly gaining International recognition.
Bodegas Senorans was established in 1989 in the village of Vilanovina, which is situated in the middle of the Val do Salnes sub region of Rias Baixas. The property was purchased by Marisol Bueno (Presidenta of the Rias Consejo) and her husband Javier Mareque in 1979. The old and run down farm buildings which make up the property have been slowly but extensively restored and the surrounding vineyards planted exclusively with Albarino, replacing the old workhorse grapes like Rosal. In 1989 the winery was finally finished with the installation of new equipment. The first commercial vintage was the 1990, released in 1991 and then in 1992 they employed a young oenologist and master of viticulture, Ana Quintela, since when the reputation of this bodega has soared. Apart from the property? own 10ha of vineyards they also work with a small number of growers consulting on yields, pruning times and harvest. Pazo de Senorans is always the last to pick their grapes and only commence the harvest when they have achieved around 12.5 to 13 degrees (the majority of growers pick around 11 degrees). This gives the optimum quality and ripeness of fruit.
Since the bodega is picking late and at perfect physiological ripeness the winery uses small 3.000 litres tanks in order to accommodate these small parcels. The harvest is entirely manual. The principle selection of quality is carried out in the vineyards but a further selection takes place in cuve and in certain vintages a very special Seleccion Anada is released which is derived from a steep terraced vineyard called Las Bancales.
Wine Choices
1999 Pazo de Senorans 89.00This is a delicious, silky textured and full bodied Albarino which reveals a perfumed, apricot scented nose, luscious fruit flavours and fine balancing acidity. Almost floral this is a rich mouth-filling white wine, which possesses a dry, long finish.
1996 Seleccion Anada 205.00
This is a stunning example of Albarino and a World-Class white wine. Not only does this remarkable wine possess power it has an amazing concentration of honeyed, tropical, apricot fruit flavours which evolve in glass. It is quite magical and unlike anything we have encountered. The balance is perfect and there is definitely an evolution ahead, say 2-4 years. Around 100 cases are made.
When it comes to spring-like flavors such as fresh asparagus and snap peas, lighter fish dishes, and herb- or citrus-sauces, I can find no better accompaniment than a nice Albarino from Spain. The 2000 Lagar de Cervera Albarino ($22 in stores), from the Galicia region, is dry, has a nose of peach and apricots, turns silky on the palate, and finishes nice and clean." [- Michael Flynn, sommelier, Kinkead's, Washington,}
Spanish Recipes from Myriam Ruthchild de Serna-Maytorena
Prep Time: 30 Minutes
Ready in: 4 Hours 30 Minutes
" This is a wonderful recipe for a spicy cold tomato soup. Works great as an appetizer or main dish. It's very refreshing on hot days. Keeps, tightly covered, in the freezer up to 3 months. "Ingredients
1 cucumber, peeled and diced
1 green bell pepper, diced
5 green onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 tomatoes, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
2 1/2 cups cooked navy beans, rinsed and drained
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 (46 fluid ounce) can tomato juice
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon minced fresh basil
1/2 tablespoon minced fresh oregano
1/4 teaspoon salt
Directions
1 In a 4-quart serving bowl or soup tureen, combine cucumber, bell pepper, green onion, garlic, tomatoes, celery, navy beans, olive oil, vinegar and tomato juice Season with cumin, parsley, basil, oregano and salt. Adjust spices and seasonings to taste. Chill in refrigerator at least 4 hours before serving cold.
Makes 10 servings
Ingredients
2 cloves crushed garlic
1 1/4 pounds boneless pork loin, pounded thin
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/4 cups white wine
1 1/4 cups chicken stock
Directions
1 Chop up the garlic and rub it into the pork; rub in some salt to taste. Heat a large heavy skillet and then add the oil to reduce burning. Brown the pork. Add the pepper to taste, wine and stock and bring all to a boil.
2 Reduce heat to low, cover skillet and let simmer for 50 to 55 minutes or until internal temperature of pork has reached 160 degrees F (70 degrees C). Cut pork into bite size pieces and serve it in the cooking liquids.
Tuna Mousse Terrine with Olives
Prep Time: 20 Minutes
Ready in: 2 Hours 25 Minutes
" Tasty and beautiful, this mousse-like textured terrine is impressively studded with pimento-stuffed olives. It's great for entertaining and looks far more difficult than it really is. Serve it on greens along with crackers or slices of Melba toast. "Ingredients
15 pimento-stuffed green olives
1 (.25 ounce) package unflavored gelatin
2 (12.5 ounce) cans water-packed tuna, drained
1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup ketchup
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1 pinch white pepper
1 tablespoon white sugar
Directions
1 Slicing crosswise, cut each stuffed olive into 3 or 4 slices. Spray a small 3-cup terrine, or decorative mold with a flat bottom, with non-stick spray. Carefully cover the bottom of the terrine with the sliced olives, making sure that the pimentos stay in the center of the olives.
2 in a small saucepan over low heat. Heat 1/2 cup of water. Stir in the gelatin until it completely dissolves, stirring constantly so that the gelatin does not burn.
3 place the tuna, mayonnaise, ketchup, paprika, white pepper and sugar in an electric blender. Process until smooth. Add the gelatin into the mixture and process again until it becomes a uniform paste. Carefully spoon the tuna mixture into the terrine over the olives until the dish is full to the rim. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. When ready, remove the tuna mousse from the mold and serve.
Prep Time: 20 Minutes
Ready in: 8 Hours 20 Minutes
" This recipe is a staple in our home. Raw seafood is cooked by the lime juice! Now don't wrinkle your nose! You would never know the seafood was not cooked prior to serving. Make sure to always use the freshest ingredients! You may substitute many types of seafood for scallops, for example: halibut, red snapper, flounder, or swordfish. "
Ingredients
1 pound bay scallops
8 limes, juiced
2 tomatoes, diced
5 green onions, minced
2 stalks celery, sliced
1/2 green bell pepper, minced
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons light olive oil
1/8 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Directions
1 Rinse scallops and place in a medium sized bowl. Pour lime juice over the scallops. The scallops should be completely immersed in the lime juice. Chill the lime juice and scallops all day or overnight until scallops are opaque (you cannot see through them).
2 Empty 1/2 of the lime juice from the bowl. Add tomatoes, green onions, celery, green bell pepper, parsley, black pepper, olive oil, and cilantro to the scallop mixture. Stir gently. Serve this dish in fancy glasses with a slice of lime hanging over the rim for effect.
Fish Poach in White Wine a la Myriam
Prep Time: 15 Minutes
Cook Time: 10 Minutes
Ready in: 25 MinutesIngredients
2 1/2 pounds of firm fish filet
Choose a firm fleshed fish. In the US Cod Loins work great. You can also use red snapper, salmon or tuna. Your choice of fish, of course, will change the flavor.
1 quart chicken stock
1 quart orange juice
2 cups white wine
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 cups chopped lemon grass
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon white pepper
Directions
1 Remove skin from fish, then cut into desired portions.
2 In a large pot, combine chicken stock, orange juice, white wine, onion, garlic and lemon grass. Season with salt and white pepper. Bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to a low boil. Place the salmon in the poaching liquid until flaky and tender, about 5 minutes.
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