DIARY - How we're getting on, and what we've been up to
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Nights spent sleeping in proper buildings: All – roof-rack still being patched up!
Number of punctures: None – quite a while now
Number of cock-ups: None. Had to run smoothly with the Mother in Law.
Treating ourselves: Luxury tented camp in the Masaii Mara.
Slumming or Adventuring it: Brenda’s first night in the extremely basic Nairobi Camp Services ‘room’. Well done!
KENYA
We headed back from Uganda to meet Gina’s mum, Brenda, from her flight in Nairobi. We had checked out a couple of hotels on the way back in, had booked some accommodation, and even done some shopping, so we were feeling reasonably prepared.
Brenda’s first night would be spent in one of the cells of Nairobi Camp Services, and this provided the only real apprehension. We would explain that it was only for one night, and hope that would be OK. The airport collection went smoothly, and soon Brenda was back to her cell. She took it remarkably well. Must still be a little shell-shocked!
NAKURU
We had always planned to make a leisurely start out to Lake Nakuru once Benjamin had finished his welding job on the roof-rack, but it was soon clear that this leisurely start could be sometime next week. We set off, leaving the roof-rack for another week.
The drive out to the lake was a good introduction to Africa: some slightly bumpy bits (apparently still a novelty – that would change!), a few zebra by the road-side, and a good stop off by some large Storks and toasted sandwiches. We arrived at Flamingo Camp where we had reserved rooms (though we would be the only guests – again) and Brenda seemed pleasingly chuffed with the Rustic Huts. We settled down to enjoy the view and a great BBQ.
Heading on to Nakuru National park the next day we were all excited about our first day’s game viewing. The park provided the goods, with giraffe, rhino, tommys, impala, zebra and more flamingo than you could wave a stick at. Hawk Eyes Hill (Jnr) proved invaluable once again for spotting those hard-to-see giraffe.
ONTO THE MARA
Crap maps, and sketchy local directions meant that after three hours driving we eventually hit the turn off for Narok – our first destination. About one-hundred meters later, the tar stopped and, almost as abruptly, so did the road. Peering through the bushes we thought we might be able to make out a route, but first we would need to ask.
One hour later and we were back on route. After some of the largest pot-holes ever discovered (many must remain as yet undiscovered, and I swear we found lorries buried at the bottom of some of them) we stopped for a drink. A couple of Massai ladies were on hand to chat, starting off innocently, but soon building up to ask for Nigel in marriage. This was getting a little tiresome now, and it seemed that the best way to end the offers might be to simply accept, but we decided that this would not be for the best, and besides she already had a husband – even though he was seventy (she looked thirty). Nigel apologised, and we headed on, finally arriving at Narok where we found the best hotel in Kenya (as yet visited by us) for very little money. We both had to check three times, but yes we had heard correctly. Brenda commented that she had never been so consistently filthy as on this holiday, and looking at her this was easy to believe. We went upstairs for showers.
Despite the rubbish that was on television, we both settled to watch the film. This was a real treat after 3 and half months having to amuse each other.
We now headed to the Masai Mara and our luxury few days in a tented camp. The thought of being based in the same hotel for 3 nights was as exciting as seeing the animals (that is until we saw the animals). That evening we headed for our first night’s game viewing, with a dodgy map and GPS we thought we’d do it alone. Within ten minutes of leaving the camp we spotted Buffalo grazing and a pride of lions, which confirmed that the Masai Mara was everything that we had heard it to be. We then spent the next one and a half hours driving deeper into the Mara, without a clue about where the best places were. We saw a couple of giraffe and that was all. We then retraced our steps (thankful that we had the GPS, as the Mara is a big place) and headed back to camp, once again passing the lions and suddenly being confronted with a heard of elephant. They were awesome and very close, there were two adults and two infants, Nigel commented how gorgeous they were and this convinced Gina’s mum that her son in law to be was a big softy and perfect for her daughter.
The evening was spent mainly eating and drinking wine (which Nigel had sneaked into the restaurant). We also watched the hotel entertainment which was Masai dancing, just like the BBC advert. These guys really can jump, and it is no wonder as the higher they jump the more attractive to potential brides they become, so practice pays off.
We decided to take a Masai guide for the first early morning game view, his name was Kelvin though we guess not his Masai name. Nigel recorded the track on the GPS so that we could use it for our independent game views later on. It was a while until we saw much game and then suddenly we saw two families of lion and on the way back we found the cheetah Kiki from ‘Big Cat Diary” doing her usual trick of sitting on top of a vehicle.
BACK TO NAIROBI
Heading back to Nairobi with Brenda we found ourselves based at the United Kenya Club – the old colonial clubhouse, right in the centre and with pleasant grounds for a reasonable price. We agreed that this beat the alternative grubby hotels we had seen, and also the brothel that ‘could have a room ready in about 15 minutes’. We spent a few very enjoyable days visiting an Elephant Sanctuary (where we adopted a baby elephant – yet more fine evidence for the mother-in-law-to-be to absorb), a Giraffe Reserve (where we were able to feed the giraffe from a raised platform – such long tongues!), and the National Museum. Shopping was taken care of at the Masaii Market where Brenda got well into the swing of bartering with the locals, and we all got the hang of spending far too much money! Brenda’s last night was spent at the legendary Carnivore restaurant where we enjoyed mountains of meat including camel, crocodile (fishy chicken) and ostrich. Soon it was time to see Brenda off, and a tearful farewell ensued.
BRENDA’S WORDS ON LEAVING
Here goes …During the last ten to eleven days I have had a most wonderful experience. I have seen things that I have only seen on television but to experience seeing the animals and wildlife for real has been amazing. We have met many different types of people; some of whom made me quite nervous initially but I have been treated very friendly and referred, usually by the Nairobi male population, as ‘Mama’.
I must also praise my daughter and Nigel for giving me an experience I would probably never have had it is something which I will remember forever. I would also like to say that the opportunity to know better the man who is to become my daughter’s husband has been brilliant and confirms my happiness with my daughter’s choice.
ONTO TANZANIA
Eventually the time came for us to tear ourselves away from Kenya, and in particular the Nairobi Services Campsite, and to continue south towards Tanzania. It was good to be moving on again after a great time in Kenya.