Here is the way that I made my frames to hunt Seaducks and Divers. I made a couple sets that were OK, but from the recommendation and direction of my Dad, here is what we came up with. It was his input that we kept the amount of metal involved with these to a minimum. I like the simplicity of Bill Wassons Design. I just found that the metal would corrode quickly when they were used on Saltwater. The original Sets that I made, are still in use today. (with the exception of a few pellet holes in the Silhouettes.)
Materials required: ( This is for
a single Y-board frame)
1 - 1"x2", Cedar 10 feet long ( any type of Fir or cedar
should work)
Scrap 1/4" Plywood for support
2- 1 3/4", 1/4'" X 20 Stainless Hex Cap Bolt
2- 1/4" X 20 Stainless Nylon Lock Nut
4- 1/4" X 20 Flat Fender Washers.
Sealing / Painting
2- 1" Chip Brush's
Qt Exterior Grade Spar Varnish ( Something left over from sealing
Black cork will work too....)
Exterior Grade Paint. ( Something Dark gray or Black will work
Don't need to get Fancy on this....)
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Step one:
Layout the 10' piece of Cedar. I usually have some scrap to make
the back piece ( Stop) out of. So I have to make a determination
on how long the sides ( Legs) are and the center piece need to
be. If you cut them all into 3' section then you will have a small
less than a foot PC left over to use. I have found that for the
Scoter size birds, 30 to 36 inches is a good length to use. Any
longer than that you will get into a drag issue against the current
( Tide and Wind) as well handling capability in the boat or during
set up. Round edges and ends. (Sand with 100 grit sand paper.)
Step Two:
Cut the 1/4" Plywood into 12" x 8" Rectangles.
Use the template from the diagram. Cut the front 45 degree angles.
This can be a personnel preference on how you want the piece to
look. I have seen some guys just leave them square. Again, this
depends on how you want that top support to look. I just stack
them up on the band saw and cut out 6 of them at a time so they
are all uniform. (makes things easier) One thing you will learn
with this Project. MAKE ONE.... then use it as a pattern. Once
those are cut out.... your on your way......
Step Three:
Cut the Back stop so that fits under the support. Cut the ends
to 45 degrees. This is so that when you open up the left and right
legs they fold out, backwards and hit the wood there and then
stop at 45. One thing I found out is that if you leave a real
fine edge on that block it will chip out or crush slightly. Leave
that end a bit squared so this doesn't happen after many years
of use. Now pre-fit the stop and the center leg into the Support.
Make sure it is all centered up and level. Top support to bottom
support align. I like to use a good glue when I put this together.
I also use a good Bronze Boat nail that is Ringed. The rings make
it tough to come apart so don't miss! Another suggestion is that
I go to the outer edges and use a 1" galvanized construction
screw to assemble at first. Then add the boat screws. Either way.
I just found that using the screws was easier in case I have to
take it apart.
Step Four:
Now that I have the center leg and support done. You need to have
the two side legs cut and ready to install. I kinda just eye ball
this one. A template does work better for the but, the way I have
done it you just take a square and lay it up on top of the support,
and with a pencil, extend the line up from the corners of the
stop block toward the center leg. Now you have a line to lay the
legs against. slightly move the leg away from line a touch and
mark where the hole should be drill. ( I found that using a couple
spring clamps here really helps.) I drill right through the leg
cause it help me keep it perpendicular when drilling through the
support. Once Drilled on both side, install the legs with Screws.
Step Five:
I disassemble the whole thing and seal with a exterior spar varnish
then paint. the color I like to use is a dark gray or black. The
black worked well for me.
Construction Hints:
Taper the end of the left and right legs so that they fit into
the support easily I used a belt sander to thin them.
Using Nylock nuts keeps the bolts from loosening. It also helps maintain the distance between the supports to insure the legs fit correctly.
Drill holes in the BACK support and run a line through them to be able to connect the y-boards one to another. That way you only need one weight for like 3 Y-Boards.
The BETTER YOU SEAL them the long they will last! Do not skimp on sealing them.
Hope this helps....
TGUN
