HISTORY.

HISTORY OF CLOTHING


a. I can’t even begin this book without an arguement on clothes. Of course its that age old controversy of which history of man to believe in; evolution or genesis. And because I am hoping to interest all people on Earth I must not forget that Genisis is parochial in a way. There are other beginnings and we will deal with them each as they affect our history lesson.

Evolution.

b. I have a problem with evolution right at the start. Face it, it doesn’t make sense! There we have a neanderthal man, or whatever name is up to date, just emerging from the ape, and he fashions clothes for himself out of skin.

I want you to think about that for a minute. You have heard of the Yeti or Bigfoot that wanders this earth. If we ever prove he exists then we are going to have to reevaluate our own beginnings. For you see he wears no clothing at all and his cover is his own hairy body. Which is exactly what I would expect from man if he decended from an animal. What animal would be stupid enough to encumber himself with a wardrobe to pack around or wash or darn? Especially when he has been doing allwright without clothes! When was the point when someone said “We are naked! let us clothe ourselves.” Is there a point in time when you can live one minute without clothes and the next minute you need them? There is not one commonsense reason for evolved humans to wear any clothing.

It is not in the nature of an evolutionary creature to be bare one day and need clothes the next and be able to design, invent or create them. What excuses have been given by evolutionists so far to explain the need of clothes by these early humanoids? We have three that I am aware of; 1. protection. 2. shame. 3. adornment.

1.Protection from the cold. I’ll first have to build a small scenario to set the stage. Lets say we have a small group of humanoids who have somehow managed to breakaway from the trees and lost their fur or hair while doing so. They also have been walking on their hind legs for a few hundred thousand years. In fact they have become quite good at it. keep that in mind. All of a sudden a very cold storm comes along. They huddle together for warmth as any smart animal would do. If the cold goes away soon they will survive it. If not, they will perish. That is a fact of nature. If they survive they will forget about it until the next time. Just as any animal would do. Inventing clothing on the spot when they have no concept of clothing is hard to concieve of. It’s as big a jump as inventing a space ship in 95 B.C. to escape the Romans. If the cold comes slowly, like any animal that is mobile, they will move to warmer area’s. The concept here is mobility to escape. Or migrate as the herds do.

Protection from heat. Clothes don’t keep you cool but they do protect from sunburn. However so does shade. Trees are everywhere except in the deserts. Any animal who ventures into the desert by mistake will perish from lack of water before he perishes from sunburn. And there is nothing to make clothes from on the desert even if you do think of something as brilliant as clothes.

Protection from scratches. Now this I can agree with. If our ancestors had lost their hair on the behind it can be rough if they have to sit on stones or rocky ground. Unfortunatly there is just one problem with that idea; that is a western world concept. Native peoples seldom if ever sat on chairs. They squatted on their haunches. In that position you don’t come near the ground with your tush. And if you are in dense jungle the leaves are soft. If you are in a thorny area you keep away from the thorns. In this case, clothing would be caught on the thorns. Actually, in a survival setting clothes are a hindrance not a help.

To end this section I draw attention to the accounts of Captain Cook about the natives of Tierra - del- fuego at the tip of South America. A cold and bitter land. They wore no clothes and felt no cold. They could not approach within yards of Cooks campfire because of the heat. They couldn’t even be comfortable standing near Cook or his men, as they complained they gave off too much warmth. Unfortunatly they must have gotten too close anyway as they were almost all dead on the return visit. Desease from the ships crew wiped out a race that had survived for who knows how long.

Shame or modesty. This is a very interesting concept. When we trace the concept of ‘shame’ in regards to the genitals it appears that every race on the face of the earth covered them up in some fashion. It is not clear whether it is from modesty, shame, protection or to show off or inhance the penis. There is one tribe that lived in Africa long ago who’s women bared the genitals when they moved between villages. When meeting a man they presented themselves for sex. This was their way of saving their lives and not being kidnapped. But obviously that is a learned response to a bad situation. Where and how the entire world learned to hide just this one part of their body when no animal on earth ever did is a mystery. Humans have used everything on earth to hide this part of the body, from leaves to the horns of animals. They have either covered it modestly or been brazen about it. I refer to the horns used by the pygmy’s which was then tied to their waist by strings.

Adornment or pleasure A humanoid without too much verbal communication must have been attuned to his senses. Sense of smell, touch ,taste, sight, and hearing. He must also,if he herded in groups, been attuned to his inner senses. Quick to sense any emotional vibrations given off by his/her group. This is a requisite to survival of any wild group banded together. Tension indicates danger. It signals, ‘keep still till we find out what is up.” Fear means, “Run like mad anywhere, but move.” Excitement signals, “Come see!” And in those peacefull moments after a good feed, or nightfall, comes the closeness. The tactile examination of others. The sense of touch was far more acute with them than with us. You need to move inward to really experiance touch. There have been so few really good experiments done on touch lately but an early one that dealt with chimps and monkeys showed the baby animals tactile sense was important to his well being. Bottles were attached to dummys of tin, canvas and fur. The babies very quickly chose the furry surrogate mama. Our own babies are found to do better when placed on a furry rug for periods of time. All this leads to the proposal that fuzzy skins taken from animals may have been played with by the young,(or the old) felt, hugged, sat on and just generally kept around to touch or nuzzle until someone liked the feel so well they wrapped it around themselves as a very early security blanket.

However, please don’t make the mistake of thinking that I believe early man actually wore clothes. We have only found skulls, bones, and tools at oldavi Gorge and other sites. Never clothes or skins. We put skins on them in our early portrayals in the days when the Church frowned on naked people. Our Documented History of early man is from the historical age of 12 - 14,000 years ago and from our early encounters of primative jungle tribes. They wore skins! And we haven’t reached that section yet!

c. GENISIS OR BIBLICAL

This version of early mans history springs from the Chaldean or Persian area now known as Iraq/Iran and embraces the Western Asian continent, Arabia, Egypt, and upper Africa. I will not include India or China or Malasia in this section but will try to deal with them separatly.

For our purposes I will accept the present form of Genisis where Adam and Eve are to be tossed out of Eden and God is fashioning clothes of skin for them.

Lordy, Lordy, lordy,what a messed up tale! In the first section we have man and animals living in peaceful co-existance in a world full of growing edibles. No killing for food. Now, just because of an apple (or whatever) God goes out and kills a poor dumb beast and then skins it (ugh) and makes Adam and Eve wear it! Come on dears, who else is around to see them? They’ve been looking at each other all this time so what’s new? And God,s obviously been looking at them. And the kids haven’t arrived yet so what’s the worry? Well, like it or not they are wearing the first set of clothes. Now I don’t know how adept you people are about making yourselves outfits from leather, but I’m what you might call well aquanted with it. I used to be a furrier at one time and I’ve also made up leathers and moccasins. It takes time to tan a skin and work it up. So I don’t imagine the version the Church gives out of Adam and Eve is quite kosher. Since there were no animals mentioned in Eden, God had to go find one or call it in, kill it, skin it, tan it, stitch it all together for his naughty pair. At least two days maybe? Not quite the abrupt expulsion we’ve been led to believe.

From then on I’d say it gets easy. With the daily or weekly lamb offering you’d pile up a few skins around the house. Eve must have been kept busy working them all up into outfits. I have often wondered privatly though if this wasn’t a very cruel form of punishment for two very gentle people to have to learn to kill dear little lambs and skin them and then be forced to wear the skin! Think about it!!

The story continues until the flood without mentioning the progress of this form of clothing. And clothing is what we are interested in. All paintings from the earliest church days portray the preflood people wearing cloth garments more on the style of the Greek/Roman and semetic tribes. We can understand this as they were seeing the story from their own point of view. My Bible has no mention of clothing after the outfits made for Adam and Eve. Which means we will have to move to another book to discover where they learnt how to spin and weave cloth, or even if they did.

That book is the “BOOK OF ENOCH’. Mention is made in chapter 8 that one of the Angels,(the sons of heavin) called AZAZYEL, among other things, taught the men to make, “all sorts of dyes,” which implies that they had cloth to use it on. And of course Enoch himself recounts how he wore a veil before the LORD, as well as the Robe the lord wore. In chapter 68 Verse 6-8 the angel GADREL taught men how to make, ‘the coat of mail’. This can only be the first armor.

The book of Enoch is interesting in that we learn that according to this version of mans history he was taught by others and did not evolve his own civilization, which includes his clothing. Which in turn leads us on a merry-go-round of our search for mans first clothing.

We cannot prove that the first man wore clothing in the evolutionary theory, and the biblical story does not give us much to go on either for it does not describe the style of either the skins or the clothes the angels wore. But what we can do is look at how skins have been used for clothing by primative man.

d. SKIN CLOTHING.

We must try to be as accurate as possible in our search for the truth. That means ignoring assumed idea’s of Artists and paleontologists and movie makers who portrayed early man and speak only of what we know for sure.

That takes us to those strange inigma’s of mans past; the cave drawings and rock drawings and pictures scraped out of the land. Most of them depict us nude. A few show animal heads worn on the heads of men. None show men wearing skins. It does show clad beings. That brings me to a dilemma. Archeology is a subject I will be going into later on when I discuss ancient civilizations, but I will have to deal with it now a little bit. Archeology is important in our history of clothes but it has to deal with cities and civilized man. And we are seeking primative man. In order to do this we have to ignore the past and archeology and come forward to a recent age when explorers started to make contact with natives around the world. You see how silly that is? They are modern men who have had contact with civilization some time in thier lives. They remind me more of the hippy who turned his back on civilization, or the survivers of a terrible disaster, War or nature.

Almost every nation and people use or have used skins as a means of clothing. Those that never wore skins lived in area’s where animals were very scarce or the ones they had were deemed unsuitable. It was a personal opinion only as every animal or reptile skin has been used by man in our long history. The manner in which it has been used echo’s the degree of civilizaton attained.

Early man and very primative men used the skin in a very basic style, with fur attached and very little or no preparation such as tanning. The whole skin was used with head attached and all in some instances. This was placed around the shoulders or hung from the head with the animals head used as a crowning ornament. This was found in Africa mostly.

The Cerne giant in England is very old. He wears no clothing. The huge figures in the dirt at Nazca wear no clothing. And when we do see anciant figures carved on rocks or walls of canyons or on bluffs they look more like space travelers wearing space suits than they do of humans.

One of the things I have looked for is a further development among people in that area of the clothes these space travelers wore. I found no clothes worn by later peoples that resembled these outfits. Which would have been a natural development if they had been designed and worn by our races. It’s only lately that our fast pace of living has us wearing so many changes of clothing. In the past styles stayed around for centuries.

Using skins and leaves usually followed the method of using the circle to hang it on. That needs a bit of explanation. Most clothing designs are based on hanging the item from a circle on different parts of the body. example; headbands hold feathers, skins, leaves, heads, etc.; neckbands hold blouses, dresses, capes, coats, etc,; bust bands hold sarongs, toga’s, skins, etc. Waistbands hold skirts, toga’s, sarongs, pants, etc. And then there are bands (circles) that go around wrists, legs, ankles, for ornaments or ribbons or feathers. But all hang from these different shaped circles around parts of the body.

All clothing styles hang from these circles. In some primative groups a circle of straw or a binding was put around the waist and the skin tucked into it front and back to cover the genitals.

The American indians and the Eskimo’s were well along in their development when we discovered them and what we saw was a fairly sophisticated use of skins and methods of tanning.

Since this is only a rough outline in the type of early clothes used by man we will only touch lightly on each subject here and go into it in depth at other points.

FIRST BASIC METHODS

e. Nothing develops on its own or alone. It grows apace with other inventions. Around the world man has used many varieties of material to clothe himself. He has used animal skins, reptile skins, feathers, grass, leaves, wool, flax, bark, cotton and silk and hair. Each area would have its own problems of supply, weather, and tribal development.

Where grasses were used they began as small clumps over the genetals and held in place by a string around the waist. Let me say right here that since we really don’t know the true history of man we really cannot say whether the weaving of fibers such as cotton or hemp or wool came before the weaving or plaiting of grasses. They are identical in design. Straw has been woven so tight by some american tribes that it will hold water. As the art of plaiting grass developed so did the art of clothing grow. The grass skirt and leaf skirt became a thing of great intricacy. Capes developed and were made from weaving or plaiting. Hats of straw came into being along with the increase in skill. These arts developed on islands were the lack of other materials for clothing dictated the use of these materials. As the inhabitants came into contact with other material they were incorporated into the clothing. Or this form of clothing was abandoned as regular wear.

Where skins were used they began as whole scraped skins. As the art of tanning developed the skins became supple and could be cut and shaped. This meant the development of the needle and the art of sewing with sinews or the inner bark of trees or gut. As clothing developed into more than just the act of cover from the elements it became a fashion statement. I have a hunch the first fashion plate was not a woman but a man. And the statement he was making was one of power.

Where bark was used in the making of tapa cloth the method of manufacture is to pound the bark into strips (we will discuss how later)until it is soft and plyable and can then be made up into a sarong.

Making tapa cloth is very much like making papyrus paper. It has never been established whether one grew out of the other.

The wearing of wools is by far the most complicated of them all for there are many steps taken in the making of cloth from wool or linen or cotton or silk. These fabrics are considered those of sophistication and civilization. All these fabrics use a loom to make them. The loom would have had to be developed in conjunction with the concept of weaving itself. Too advanced to join our early ancestors history of clothing. It belongs to a later date.

DEVELOPMENT AROUND THE WORLD.

f. Since only the Asian and European world kept a few wall paintings and sculptures to show their early styles we can only judge other peoples by the styles and fabrics they were wearing when we met them. I will start with Alaska and move down the continent then the pacific rim.

The Eskimo was a very well clothed figure when we first came across him. Men and women were dressed basically alike in skins. They wore white fox, wolf, elk, and seal skins and used the hide of polar bear. In other words anything that came to them across the tundra and frozen wastes or from the sea. They were scrapping the skins with a fan shaped knife used by the women who’s job it mainly was, curing in the air and sun and then chewing the skins to work them to a soft state. They were stitched together with sinew that was thinned by pulling through their teeth. The needles were made from bone. There were usually two sets of clothing; one summer style and one winter style. Both sexes wore pants, or I should say leggings, for they were usually not sewn up the crotch. The fur was worn inside to the skin for the winter with possibly another pair over made of sealskin,fur outside. Modesty was achieved with a long upper garment that came to the knees. This was made of soft, fine skin for summer with a parka style garment over it in winter. They wore an ‘apron’ of leather when the upper garment was taken off. Shoes were worn at all times made of sealskin inside the foot and laced around the ankle with a cuff at the top of fur. Quills and bone were sewn on for adornment.

North American indian dress was as varied as any group of diverse tribes could be. They ranged from leggings and shirts, to dresses for the women. Both sexes wore leggings. The amount of clothing depended on the climate of course. It was all made from finely tanned leather from Dear and Elk. Buffalo were used mainly for the tents, sleeping robes and sometimes moccasins and cradles. The exception to this was the west coast Indian, the Haida and Salish tribes and also the Mic Mac’s who wore bark capes and hats. Very sensible in the rain forests of the coast. The desert Indians wore also in the heat only a loin cloth using the circle around the waist with a strip of leather pulled through and falling in an apron front and back. Rank was indicated by the use of feathers. Either worn on the head or as a cape or around the neck. As far as I can discover the art of weaving cotton or flax was not known in North America. The cotton plant was unknown as was flax and sheep arrived with the settlers. Since there was no suitable plant to produce a fiber to spin, weaving as we know it never grew. But they did know the art of weaving just the same as they made some of the finest woven baskets and bowls in the world. The weave was so tight it held water. What is not known is did they learn this weaving from the settlers. And did they learn the art of pants and curing skins from the first settlers?

South America we are just learning did have weaving for they have found woven fabric in a burial site where the weave was very fine. 3,000 year old cloth can be seen in Peru.

The Hawaiian Islands are always depicted as being in grass skirts, yet in a display of Paintings from Captain Cooks voyage they are in cloth. White capes and long dresses, or skirts. What the fabric is or where it came from I do not know. If that was Cook’s second voyage it still does not say where they got the fabric. Feathers were used to create a helmet that closely resembled the Roman Helmet. This helmet was brought to the Islands by way of Tahiti. It has never been traced from there.

Polinisia had the fine grass skirt with a woven band. All of the islands of the pacific had the ability to weave grasses by the time we came along. Since man moved across the Pacific Islands as he increased of course they took with them skills they learned. As long ago as the time of Ur in Chaldea trade was established between the Asian, Indian and Pacific Islands. If not then certainly the Bible claims that Solomon was trading with the known world which would have to include the pacific. And since the mainlands had weaving of grasses then this is the start of their knowledge.


MAN MADE MATERIALS

g. The first man made materials came in 1884 by Hilaire de Chardonnet from cellulose. It was forced through fine holes and came out as a fine filiment that could be spun into fabric. It was called Rayon. It was an established fabric by the 1930’s.

At this time also man was experimenting with polymers and Caruthers from DuPont invented Nylon, a synthetic polymer. This was made into Nylons by 1939 and then into parachutes in WWII.

With the inventions of plastics a whole new field of fabric was on the market. Imitations of leathers, hides, plastics of all forms from threads to sheets. I have seen plastic sheets shredded and woven into wools to form fabrics that shimmer, the filement from tape decks woven into cloth to make a dress, and plastic circles sewn on like tassels to adorn fabric. Its only limit is mans imagination and inginuity.

ARCHAEOLOGY

h. Again we come up against that old problem of our true history. You see for us to be on an upward climb we should be getting better at what ever we do. Right? Well that doesn,t make sense when we find cotten cloth in a grave site dated around the beginning of A.D. 100 I have found another anomaly.What most people don’t realize about thier pants that they wear so casually is the fact that it is quite an engineering feat. You are constructing a series of tubes that must work in opposition to each other. The torso is one tube going with the length of the body, but the crotch is another form of tube in total opposition to it. This in turn must attach to the tubes that form the legs which in turn move. And all three tubes in connection must be capable of that strangest of all movements=the squat or the sit, in which all three tubes are working against each other. It is one thing to wear leggings, which is what the Norse men and the Eskimo wore. They were not joined at the crotch. As a consequence in order that their genitals did not show or be exposed they wore an apron in front and back. This was the form of ‘pants’ that the American Indian was wearing. Imagine my surprise then to see a skin tight form of true pants on the Anciant statues of India. Not only was the pant cut properly but had an added strange feature about them. The left leg was always depicted as short. Ending at the knee. While the right leg was long to the ankle. Not only that but the art of knitting was not developed when these statues were built and yet these pants were form fitting. Meaning that they moved with the body and stretched to conform to the changes in the body as it moved. That deffinatly implies a knit fabric which is stretchy.

And that to me implies knowledge lost.

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