La Valetta Inspiration
Raphael and Vecellio both gave such lovely illustrations of the dress of the time, how could I not become inspired. This is a lovely dress to wear. With or without its tied in sleeves it always feel wonderful. Made in a linen cotton blend, it makes for cooler summer wearing.
The bodice is front lacing and the eyelets are metal ring reinforced under the hand working of them. The bodice is boned with metal bones and mounted on canvas and lined in linen. This gives strength and breathes.
The sleeves are given the same parti coloured treatment, with each panel being the opposing colour on the reverse side.
The sleeves are in four layers with four panels in each layer. Each panel is shaped and sized so that they are longer than required for a standard sleeve to allow for the puff, and wider at the top and the base of each panel so that it could be flat pleated into a band to give extra fullness. These Puffs or Lanterns, as I have heard them called, are fitted into bands along the arm so that they fit neatly and help hold their shape. The gold trim is extended at the top so that the braid forms ties for attaching the sleeves to the dress. Rings are sewn in under the should for the ties to pass though. The wrist has a simular effect, with a piece of the cold cord going around the wrist with extensions so that it may be ties off for a neat fit and finish.
The skirt is also parti coloured, but not lined as I wear an underskirt. The skirt is cartridge pleated and had stitched into the bodice. A hook and eye is stitched at the top of the skirt at the base of the lacing to ensure that the lacing doesn't pop open at all. Another hook and eye is stitched into the small opening of the skirt to ensure modesty.
The gold cord trim used for this frock was wonderful to work with. 80 plus metres of the gold trim went into this frock and this is mostly on the sleeves. The gold trim is also featured at the hem and on the front and back of the bodice. I attached some of it to a flange so that I could also use it as piping along the edge of the sleeve panels and the neckline.
Accessorized with a beaded girdle, garnet earrings and a pearl and garnet necklace and toped off with a balzo.
This
photo was take for my by my father before he passes on.
All intellectual content, composition, layout, designs and photographs, unless otherwise noted are copyright 2007 to Deborah Lane ©, or, copyright 2003 to Deborah Murray © also known as Mistress Oonagh O'Neill ©. All Original renaissance art works and artefacts are not copyright to Deborah Murray, and are shown for educational use only . If you see something you'd really like to use, please contact me!