ADDING A BOILER JACKET TO ACCUCRAFT's RUBY



WHAT IS A BOILER JACKET?

It takes a lot of energy to heat a boiler full of water. A Boiler Jacket is an insulator around the boiler to help keep in this heat, instead of letting it radiate off into space. From a modeling perspective, a jacket also gives you a place to attach detail parts.

NOTE: This increases the overall diameter of your boiler, and your cab will have to be altered to allow the increased size.

NOTICE:

This is only a description of what I chose to do to my own RUBY engine. It in no way is meant to encourage others to make this or any other modifications to their equipment. This is a minor modification and can easily be undone. Exert EXTREME CARE and remember to MEASURE TWICE / CUT ONCE! Again, this is what I did and how I did it. It worked for me but NO guarantees are expressed nor implied that this is the way any sane person would accomplish this task.

Boiler Insulation Materials List*
Part #
Description
CCB-3 Brass Black
MPC-21 12" x 12" Fiber Paper
MPB-015X Brass Boiler Wrapper (5" x 7.5")
<Hobby Shop> (2) 1/4" x 1/16" x 6" Brass Strip (Underbands)
<WoodCrafters> 1/8" x 1/32" x 36" Brass Inlay Strip (Bands)
HHT-0825R Handrail Stanchions (Threaded /w nut)
(Optional)
<Hobby Shop> Brass Rod to fit stanchions
(If required)

Here is a copy of the plans I used and a 'brief' description what I did:

It is recommended that you first layout and test fit the jacket using a sheet of cardboard or poster board.

Cut the large sheet of boiler wrapper into two pieces, one a square 5" x 5", the other the remainder. From this remainder, layout three circles. The outer two share the same center and have a 1 1/16" and 15/16" radius, respectively. On a line thru this center point draw the third circle centered 11/16" from the inner circle with a radius of 5/16". With a 5/8" drill bit, drill out and smooth this inner most circle. Now cut along the outer circle. (This will be hidden and does not have to be 100% perfect.) Notch every 1/8" inch or so from the edge to the inner circle and bend in 90o. Cut a piece of insulating material to match. Remove the burner and place the insulator and blackhead jacket in place, with the inner hole lined up with the burner opening. Replace the burner and tighten. (There will be a small gap between the boiler and the bent tabs. The insulation from the boiler-jacket will go into this space.)

Using the 1/4" wide brass strip, make at least two partial bands slighlty less in length than the jacket will be wide to go under the front, middle, and optionally backhead end boiler bands. Simply bend them to the circumference of the boiler and slip them in place. These help to keep the boiler bands from crushing the jacket and show a solid brass band at the front instead of letting the insulation show through. If you are installing handrail stanchions, they can be tapped to accept the stanchions's threaded portion.

Using the large 5" square piece, layout and drill the three (3) .5" (1/2) holes according to the plan below. Cut the hole closest to the edge and make it into a slot. These holes fit over the boiler openings for the filler and pressure relief valve, while the slot slips around the base of the throttle turret. File or sand these edges. WARNING! The edges can be VERY SHARP! Remove the old boiler bands, the filler cap and pressure relief valve and test fit the jacket. (Be careful not to misplace them!) If you wish to install handrail stanchions, layout and drill the appropriate sized holes. This may vary based the stanchion used and how you want it your boiler to look. Be aware that if you are too close to the center-line, your hand-rail will conflict with the domes. Once you are satisfied, you can paint the jacket with a high temperature paint or use a brass blackener, following manufactures instructions. Cut the insulating material to fit between the underbands as in the picture below. Drill a small hole in the end of your 1/8" brass strip, just large enough to pass the bolts from the original boiler bands. Bend a 90o angle just above the hole. Wrap the strip around the boiler, the insulator and jacket. Mark it just beyond where it crosses itself and cut it. Drill another hole in this end and bend to match the other. The completed band should fall just short of touching when finally assembled. Make 3 bands. As an option, I choose to braze the bolts to one end of the band. This helps when trying to hold the band closed and get a nut at the same time.

From the 'DO AS I SAY NOT AS I DO' Department: There is NO SUBSTITUTE for the RIGHT TOOLS. If you should decide to attempt a similar conversion, I recommend having a Dremel or similar tool with cutting and grinding bits, a drill (Drill Press preferred) with an assortment of small metal bits, small metal files, TUBE BENDERs of the appropriate size, a good hot torch, and all SAFETY EQUIPMENT! Nothing is worth an eye or a hand!


PICTURES OF MY BOILER JACKET MODIFICATION
Plans for Boiler Jacket
Plans for Boiler Jacket


Underbands and Insulation in place
Underbands and Insulation in place
Side view of BOILER JACKET in place Rear angle view of BOILER JACKET in place
Side view of BOILER JACKET in place
Rear angle view of BOILER JACKET in place


*I buy the majority of my supplies from Sulphur Springs Steam Models and supply the part numbers as a convenience. I am in no way related to the company other than as a satisfied customer.