Need to Replace Disk Brake Pads and Front Rotors- Advice Needed Please [850][1995]

... posted by Nathan Berk  on Sunday, 28 January 2001, at 8:10 a.m.

I have a 1995 Volvo 850.

The front and rear brake disk pads need to be replaced. The front rotors need replacement as well.

The directions for doing this are out on the Volvospeed.com site and appear to be straightforward and fairly simple.

Is there anything I need to look out for when doing this job??

I was considering going with IPD replacement pads and rotors - but on second thought, figured I may as well stick with the OEM parts as they perform well and are quiet.

Incidently, Volvospeed.com is a fantastic site ! So far they have saved me a lot of money as I have done the following repairs following their excellent directions: Turbo Oil Return Line ( New o-ring and gasket); Transmission Microswitch Replacement; Front Seat Adjusters ( both front seats); Windshield Wiper Arm Fix; Windshield Washer Valve Replacement.

I am handy with tools - Just wondering about anything unusual about replacing the brakes. The dealer wants $600 to do the job - I can get the parts for around $225.

.. posted by shawn  on Sunday, 28 January 2001, at 9:03 a.m. ...in response to "Need to Repace
                       Disk Brake Pads and Front Rotors- Advice Needed Please" posted by Nathan Berk.
 

                       Nathan,
                       I have done this a few times now and the job is NO BIG DEAL. Just make sure you have the following
                       before you start: a good set of metric sockets, a good set of torx/allen sockets, a disc brake piston
                       compression tool (in a pinch you can use a large C-clamp), a brake bleeding set up. A few things; the
                       calaper retaining bolts are behind rubber caps, remember to have a set of "hooks" to hang the calapers
                       and not stress the hoses(if you are going to do all this, go for the stainless lines up front), and remember,
                      to remove the wheel alinement pin before you try and remove the rotor. Volvos are prone to brake
                       noise so use ALL the "adheasive" they give you with the new pads.
                       shawn

... posted by Michael Krutolow  on Sunday, 28 January 2001, at 10:10 a.m. ...in response to
                       "Re: Need to Repace Disk Brake Pads and Front Rotors- Advice Needed Please" posted by
                       shawn.
 

                       Nathan,

                       Volvo also has a silicone disc brake grease that you should use.

.. posted by Nathan Berk  on Sunday, 28 January 2001, at 9:19 a.m. ...in response to "Re:
                       Need to Repace Disk Brake Pads and Front Rotors- Advice Needed Please" posted by shawn.
 

                       Thanks Shawn !

                       WIll I need to bleed the brakes ? I mean, as long as I keep the pistons in the calipers I won't need to
                       bleed the lines- right?

                       Though- it would probably be a good idea once the new brakes are on to drain and refill the hydraulic
                       brake fluid. I would think this would be easier since no air would be in the system, right?

                       Compression tool? You mean something to push the pistons in the calipers?
                       Is there a specific tool at the auto parts stores to do this?

                       Thanks

... posted by shawn  on Sunday, 28 January 2001, at 10:41 a.m. ...in response to "Thanks
                       Shawn! - re:Disk Brake Pads and Front Rotors- Advice Needed Please" posted by Nathan Berk.
 

                       Nathan,
                       Yes, there is a specific tool for compressing the piston back into the caliper .... I bought mine at Harbor
                       Freight for $9. Remember to CLEAN the piston before you shove it back in....brake cleaner and a soft
                       bristle brush should do the trick. There will be no air unless you change the lines (again, especially on a
                       turbo car, a very good idea) BUT many times the fluid has been topped off as the pads wear down and
                       compressing the piston will cause the master cylinder to overflow, bleeding from the fitting will prevent
                       this. Tool also available at HF for about $12-15.
                       Good luck,
                       Shawn

... posted by WatsonMD  on Sunday, 28 January 2001, at 10:19 a.m. ...in response to "Thanks
                       Shawn! - re:Disk Brake Pads and Front Rotors- Advice Needed Please" posted by Nathan Berk.
 

                       Nathan,
                       Please DO NOT Drain your Brake Lines. I am hoping that you meant that your were going to
                       flush/bleed the lines with new fluid.

                       The problem with draining the lines is that air can get into the ABS system and never get out. Thus, it will
                       not fuction properly. This is also why you must keep a very close eye on the master cylinder while
                       bleeding.

                       Also, use only DOT 4 fluid as it is intended for the increased heat/usage by 4 wheel disks.

                       Best of Luck

                       Andrew T. Watson

                       --
                       Volvo '97 850 GLT, Toyota '96 4Runner

... posted by Nathan Berk  on Sunday, 28 January 2001, at 10:56 a.m. ...in response to "Do
                       NOT Drain Brake Lines!!!!" posted by WatsonMD.
 

                       My intent was to keep the master cylinder topped off with dot4 fluid whilst bleeding the lines - i guess
                       this is called "flushing and bleeding"?

                       My objective would be to rid the brake system of the old fluid while adding new dot 4 fluid.

                       I did not mean to say that i'd drain the system completely then add fluid - I would keep new fluid topped
                       off in the master during the entire process.

                       Am I on the right track?

... posted by WatsonMD  on Sunday, 28 January 2001, at 12:19 p.m. ...in response to "Follow
                       Up Question--Re: Do NOT Drain Brake Lines!!!!" posted by Nathan Berk.
 

                       Your are on the right track!!

                       The way I did it. First, try siphon most of the old Brake Fluid out of the Master Cylinder. Refill it with
                       fresh/new (never opened) DOT 4 Fluid. Seal master cylinder.

                       1. Starting at the Passenger Rear wheel. Put closed end wrench (10 or 12mm, cannot remember) over
                       bleed valve. Place clear tubing over bleed valve and into small glass container with enough brake fluid in
                       bottom to submerge end of tubing.

                       2. Have assistant pump brake pedal three times and hold it depressed. Open bleed valve slightly to
                       allow fluid to flow. When assistant tell you that pedal is on floor, close the bleed valve. Then release
                       brake pedal. Do this quite a few times until the fluid begins to look "new". You can tell if the old is very
                       yellow. Be sure to keep an eye on the master cylinder and refill it when it nears the minimum mark.
                       When done at this wheel. Snug up the bleed valve and replace the cover.

                       3. Move to the Driver's rear wheel, Passenger's front wheel, then Driver's front wheel.

                       4. Dispose of the Brake fluid in a proper manner. I took mine to AutoZone and they recycled it.

                       5. I reccommend doing this every 18-24 mths as brake fluid is hygroscopic (attracts water). This will
                       lower the boiling point of the fluid and can cause failure. Also, the internal parts of the braking system
                       can rust from the water content.

                       Best of Luck
                       Andrew T. Watson

                       --
                       Volvo '97 850 GLT, Toyota '96 4Runner

... posted by VolvoFan on Monday, 29 January 2001, at 1:07 p.m. ...in response to "Re: Follow Up
                       Question--Re: Do NOT Drain Brake Lines!!!!" posted by WatsonMD.
 

                       WatsonMD wrote:

                       > 2. Have assistant pump brake pedal three times and hold it depressed.
                       > Open bleed valve slightly to allow fluid to flow. When assistant tell
                       > you that pedal is on floor,

                       Don't let the pedal hit the floor. You may damage the system. When the pedal is "approaching" the floor,
                       close the valve off. Never bottom the brake pedal out. Get as close to the floor as you can but don't
                       bottom the pedal out.

Note from Ozbrick: My mate who is a mechanic, trained on Honda ABS, confirms the last point. Never let the pedal hit the floor.