Don't forget typical racing car parts type sites, my favorites for many US car hot-rod parts where Autometer, etc guages can also be found at reasonable costs. Summit racing (http://www.summitracing.com/) and Jegs (http://www.jegs.com/), two places I frequent for my US made hot-rod.
I bought a nice 2" Autometer sport-comp calibrated, mechanical vacuum/boost guage from Summit, reasonably priced about a year ago, A-pillar mounted in my older turbo Volvo. It's a great guage (does vacuum besides just boost) and too my surprize, A-pillar guage lighting does not bother me while driving at night as I thought they might before mounting it.
 

Probably not the feedback you're looking for but why just the a-pillar mounting pod? I find those pillar pods to be rather ricey and actually quite an eyesore on an otherwise tidy interior. I had my boost gauge flush mounted into the driver side air vent with a black trim piece surround. The only alteration to the car was a small hole drilled into the vent ducting behind the dash in order to pass the wiring and vacuum line through - otherwise, the vent can be reinstalled as if it was never touched. Although probably not as good in terms of sightline compared to a pillar pod, I find this mounting method to be a good alternative - neat, tidy and bears some resemblance to stock. I ended up going with a 52 mm Autometer guage that I think you mentioned - black face, white lettering, red needle and green illumination (the gauge comes with both orange and green illumination rubber pieces to fit over the bulb). Goes to 20 PSI and measures vacuum too. Got it for $70 Canadian at a Mopac race shop which carry a ton of gauges and practically all the Autometer & VDO gauges (are there Mopacs in TO?). I'm very happy with this setup, the gauge matches the dash perfectly (right down to the red needle and black background) and it looks like it belongs there.
 

Actually, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I'm not looking for people to agree with me, I want as many ways of getting a boost gauge in an 850 discussed as possible.

A question though. Don't you think the heat, cold and ESPECIALLY the moisture from the HVAC will lessen longevity of the component?

I wouldn't mind this actually, but I am using the lower driver side vent for a cup holder that mounts to air vents. So if I were to block off the one on top, I'd have no more air vents on the driver side. Yes, this is a personal issue, but I'm just telling you my reluctance to go with this.

What did you use as the plate to flush mount? Care to post some pictures?
 

Yeah, the HVAC can be a concern but I have found that I almost never use the dash vent setting, only windshield vents during the fall and winter to keep the windshield clear and of course, for some heat. I rarely feel the need to use the A/C, I prefer to open some windows. BUT I did worry about this too and blocked off the vent duct with some leftover trim I had for the gauge surround (just some black ABS I think).

I can understand your reluctance to give up both driver side vents in your case but the cup holders in the armrest serve me well enough so I have at least the bottom one. I'll try and email you some pics tomorrow.
 

I (personally) don't care for the A-pod look. So I installed the boost gauge in my S70 in the bay where the ashtray used to be, ahead of the shifter. A little low, but it has an oem look. And if that location's good enough for the Z3, it's good enough for for my T5.

I just wish my seat heater switches were located between the seats or on the console instead of under the ashtray. When I add another gauge or two to my installation, maybe I'll relocate those two switches.
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David M (98 S70 T5SE misc mods, mostly lighting) (92 940 GLE 160K)
 

D'oh~! I didn't mean to vote for that post. I was just curious what that VOTE link was for.......
 

> I installed the
> boost gauge in my S70 in the bay where the ashtray used to be, ahead
> of the shifter. A little low, but it has an oem look.

Would you be able to post pictures? This sounds interesting, esp. because it seems like it'd be a LOT easier to fish whatever tubing/wiring needs to be fished.

It's hard to tell from Sin's original post: is analog or electronic generally considered to be better?

-cj
 

I bought the A-pillar mount from IPD and a 52mm Equis brand gauge from JC Whitney for $14. 30 Hg vac/20psi backlit but hard to read at night.

-Michael

A small digital gauge that could fit within one of the extra switch locations would be fantastic.

Haven't got a picture yet because I want to add another instrument or two in the spring. I don't consider it "finished."

I don't know that Sin is recommending one or the other. Electronic avoids having to fish a tube through the firewall, but my gauge is analog (VDO). Ultimately, however, pressure is mechanical so a pressure transducer is going to be located *somewhere.* In the mechanical gauge, it's inside the gauge. In electronic, it's somewhere under the hood - perhaps right at the vacuum tree. My mechanical gauge returns readings according to specifications published here and elsewhere, so I expect it's pretty accurate.

To get the instrument light color to match, I got one of the cheap green painter's gloves at Home Depot and cut a fingertip off to use as a color filter. It's perfect.
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David M (98 S70 T5SE misc mods, mostly lighting) (92 940 GLE 160K)
 

where do you see a vote link?
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'98 S70 T5-M - Tropic Green w/ tan, Spoiler, Fog Lights, Dual CD Changers (3/6), Cold Weather Pkg, Sunroof, External Volvo Amp
 

If you could email me a pic, too, I would really appreciate it!

rbrosen1@home.com

thanks in advance.
 

do any aftermaket companies make a piece of plastic that will go below the hazard light button on c70's and s70's? that would be a great place to put two or one guage, but theres no way to mount etc...
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-Jordan , S70 T-5, Greddy warning guage, k&n airfilter, clear signals and signal bulbs, blue vision low beams
 

Actually, that's a pretty popular place to put them. EA sells a VDO with a plate that should work down there, and if not, it's not hard to fabricate.

The problem I see is, why in the world would you ever want a gauge, especially one as reactive as the boost gauge, mounted so far from line of sight? Yes, I know other manufacturers put one in their dash in a similar place. But those that do, have entirely different sight lines. As David M said "A little low, but it has an oem look. And if that location's good enough for the Z3, it's good enough for for my T5" he doesn't really take into account the WAY different positioning of the gauge relative to the driver in the Z3 and the S70. The Z3 seat is set much lower, with a higher dash height relative to the driver's eyes.
 

You might want to read my post in response to Jordan. He's also a fan of the gauge in the ashtray area mount position.
 

b/c if your guage has memory like mine (greddy) u need not look at the guage while driving/racing b/c it will tell ya your peak afterwords.
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-Jordan , S70 T-5, Greddy warning guage, k&n airfilter, clear signals and signal bulbs, blue vision low beams
 

The biggest difference in performance between electronic and mechanical is durability and functions. Electronic gauges often have features such as warning lights, max boost memory, boost level playback, digital recalibration, etc. They are also more responsive and slightly more accurate. Accuracy and responsiveness between a GOOD mechanical and an electronic is negligble, but exists.

Also, mechanical gauges are usually built to be less durable. Since the sensor itself is mounted internally in the gauge, as opposed to near the source, manufacturers don't build them to take as much abuse. As such, hard riding cars and vibration tend to affect mechanical gauges more.

Electronic gauges offer greater customization by allowing you to mount anywhere between the source and the gauge. They are also built to withstand greater stresses. And if you mount closer to the source, you will get a more accurate and more responsive gauge.

There are other differences, but I believe those were discussed in the original post.
 

But the point is, it is STILL after. Just getting information from your gauge is simply more difficult while driving. You can't get real time information unless you look quite a bit away from the road. I mean, besides personal preference, there is absolutely no advantage to mounting down there. You are wasting 90% of the function of this gauge if you only use the max boost recording. Yes, you can still see it while driving if you wanted to. But if I were in a racing situtation, the last thing I would want to do is look that far away from the road in front of me.

I am not saying it's a bad idea, just that I wouldn't consider it. Personally, I want function over form. This is to say, I want my gauge/information as close to site line as possible. I'm not a big fan of using an a-pillar pod either. But I can't think of another install that would look smooth, i.e. I don't just want the gauge screwed into my dash above the stock gauges, that would be also be as easily readible.

So far, (I think it was derspi) the best recommendation I have heard has been the HVAC outlet idea. But as I addressed, longevity of the gauge may be affected unless the duct was ENTIRELY sealed behind the gauge. And doing that good of a job sealing the vent would probably make opening and cleaning it, should you want ot remove it, would be nearly impossible. And regarding loss of function, you still have one operational vent on the driver side right below or above (probably below as it would be a better idea to mount in the upper outlet). Losing one of those vents, in my opinion, is better then losing the ashtray, and or storage area underneath the ash tray, but that's just my opinion.

It's nice to have that peak boost hold function on the gauge but peak boost isn't even all that important IMO. Peak boost is just that - a spike. If you want to know how much boost you're really running, you're gonna have to look at constant max. boost in a variety of driving situations. Having the gauge way down in the ashtray area isn't going to give you a very good sightline to it and it would be quite dangerous to take a good glance at it during hard acceleration - I'm not bashing your install or anything, I'm just pointing out why I wouldn't put the boost gauge in that location myself.
 

sorry for the miscommunication, that is where i was planning to put it. like everyone else i was A-pillar mounted but i had some problems and i am currently being sent a new one....so my boost guage isnt even in the carn and hasnt been for 2 months now.
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-Jordan , S70 T-5, Greddy warning guage, k&n airfilter, clear signals and signal bulbs, blue vision low beams
 

I angled the gauge in that location so I get a clear view. Once the other gauges are installed, I will need to create a special faceplate since angling them will require a stepped surface. When driving, I don't reference that instrument as much as I might if it were up higher, but since it's near my right hand at all times, a quick glance to that location is easy. (It must be the eye-hand thing, visual acquisition is instantaneous.)

Also, my personal preference for seat position is pushed back further than many drivers, so perhaps I get an additional sightline improvement.
 

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David M (98 S70 T5SE misc mods, mostly lighting) (92 940 GLE 160K)
 

Just out of curiousity, how tall are you? I am about 6' -> 6'1", and no matter what I do, I can't get the right driving position. I always feel like the seat can't go low enough and far back enough. No, I'm not going for that low rider reclined look. I mean, with the current position I use, I can feel the tips of my hair touching the roof unless I recline a bit. I like the seat on the floor, straight back position personally. So when I have it the way I like, I have to recline a bit to stop myself from punching a hole in the roof with frustration. About the only car I've ever driven that had what I consider to be a perfect seat position is my cousin's Boxster.

I wonder, is there a way to mount the seat lower and further back? hmmm . . .

Don't get me wrong, I absolutely LOVE the seats in this car. I wouldn't trade them for another seat in the world, except for maybe some newer Volvo seats, which I hope are even better then mine. I just can't get it to articulate far enough back and down enough.

How do you plan on doing that stepped mount plate? Do you do your own custom plastic fabrication? If you have access to such plastic fabrication machinery, maybe we could do pod mounts through your source.
 

I'm 6'5" and one of the reasons I picked this car is because I CAN fit in it. I have difficulty in just about any vehicle that doesn't at least have a power seat. Of course, like you said, you like to sit upright. I don't. I lounge back. Long arms help, too. But, even with those, if it wasn't for the telescoping wheel, I'd be in trouble.