For those in a rush, the 850 instructions are displayed in bold towards
the end of this page,
but I suggest that you read all of Tony's essay if you have the time.
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Please Post a Step -by-Step on How to Clean the Throttle Body [850][1995]... posted by Nathan on Friday, 23 February 2001, at 3:18 a.m.
If already posted somewhere- please provide a link.
I would like to know how to remove ductwork; remove the TB and clean it
thoroughly with carb cleaner.
When the TB is removed, will I need new mounting gaskets to get back on?
I do not believe Bay 13 has directions posted for this operation yet.
Thanks
I have never heard of removing the throttle body to clean it. I always
just take
off the throttle body cover and the two hoses and scrub it down with carb
cleaner. If your car a turbo, or NA. If its NA you might as well replace
the
flame trap. Also the procedure is slightly different between the two cars.
Nathan,
If your engine is naturally aspirated, this article may help. It was just
sent to the
VCOA for publication....it includes cleaning the flame trap as well. If
you have
a turbo, ignore these instructions and maybe they will be useful to someone
else!
NATURALLY ASPIRATED MODELS...CLEAN YOUR FLAME TRAP!
We all know that internal combustion engines require a mixture of air and
fuel
to carry on the job of igniting gases, creating mini explosions, and thus
turning
the crankcase that ultimately spins our drivetrain. Turbo engines go one
step
further and add compressed air, allowing for more fuel to the mixture thus
creating more horsepower. Engines need to breath, and checking your air
filter
is one small item that while important, only begins to address the many
items
that an engine depends on for air.
Naturally aspirated (non-turbo, or normally breathing) engines found on
older
Volvos including the 5cylinder engines on newer models all share a part,
commonly known
as the Flame Trap. Both my '82 240 and '94 850 share the same flame arrestor,
and while this little $1.99 part goes largely ignored, it can wreak havoc
on
your engine if allowed to get fouled. Considered part of the crankcase
ventilation (pollution control), the flame trap is a small part that includes
two
or more hoses, essentially passing gases originating from the crankcase
through
the flame arrestor and back into the intake manifold to be reburned. The
arrestor is a small round plastic disk about the size of a nickel with
many holes
in it. Looking like an over sized thimble, it prevents gases from igniting
in the
crankcase in the event of a backfire. Earlier arrestors were made from
brass,
they are now replaced with the modern plastic type. My 240 has the newer
plastic type with matching holder and is identical to the one found on
the 850.
If the flame trap is ignored over time and gets clogged, crankcase pressure
will
build resulting in the following consequences. With nowhere for the pressure
to
go, it will find it's most vulnerable and easiest exit. Seals and gaskets
will fail
resulting in major oil leaks. The oil dipstick has been known to pop right
out of
its holder due to back pressure and owners of 850s have had their rear
engine
seal fail, due to excess pressure. I try to check the flame trap once a
year as
preventative maintenance.
So where does one find the trap? On the 240 B21A for example, with no tools
needed, it is found under the intake manifold sitting on top of the oil
trap, a
plastic container like object that is connected to the engine block. The
flame
trap is in line between the oil trap and the intake duct from the air filter.
Remove the main hose from the oil trap (just pull off) and further up the
hose
you will find a larger plastic housing which is the flame trap. Pull apart
from
the hose and disconnect a second smaller hose that returns to the intake
manifold and you have the flame trap in your hand. It comes apart in two
pieces
with the flame arrestor sitting inside. Remove and clean using WD40, and
a pin
to poke the holes clear. If your trap has never been upgraded to the newer
plastic type, this is the time to replace it. Another option to cleaning
is the
small price to replace with new. On the 850 for example, I replaced the
holder,
O-ring and trap (three parts) for less then $10! The local dealer had all
parts in
stock.
On the 850 the same sort of thing is found, but this time you need tools!
Remove the air duct that runs from the air box to the throttle body.
This is done
by loosening two straps on either end. At the throttle body you will find
a
plastic housing attached also by a strap. Leave attached, but on its side
you
will find the flame trap. Simply take hold of the round plastic holder
(with
attached hose) and turn counter clock a twist of the wrist and the holder
will
disconnect from the body. Take apart and clean. If you are going to this
much
trouble on your 850, now is a good time to clean the throttle body as well.
A
sticky gas peddle is a good indication that the throttle needs cleaning.
To get at
the throttle body, remove the top cover that is held in place by one #25
torx
screw. This is the plastic cover where the throttle cable seems to disappear
into. Now remove the plastic housing previously mentioned where the air
duct
attaches. It removes from the throttle body by loosening a strap. With
the
throttle now in full view, clean the body. With jobs complete, replace
all parts
in opposite order.
Tony Giverin, 2001
--
Tony G, '94 850GLT, "82 240DL (mint) July '99 "Rolling" cover
If you have any experiences, facts, hints comments or data that you think might be useful on the site, please
and I will post it, with an acknowledgement of your contribution (if you so wish).