I now drive a 1991 940 GL which I use for my daily 75 miles highway
commute. It's pleasant and does its job well but at times I wish it were
less
noisy and generally more comfortable.
Would an 850 be any better in these respects? And if so should I go for a turbo or not?
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Rob
--
Rob A, 91 940 GL, 169K km (105K Mi)
I answered a question like this a few weeks ago. Here is a summary of my personal opinion:
If you like the bigger car or RWD, I'd recommend a late model
960, 1996 or later; in 98 they became S/V 90. It has all the amenities
of the
850's (climate control, sound insulation, CD player, winter package,
instrument console, ABS, traction control, power seats, etc) plus the
superior handling of RWD and larger capacity. It has the inline
6 cyl engine, same engine as in the newer S80. No turbo is available in
the later
models, but the NA inline 6 has got plenty of pop. It's not the
older V6 engine that plagued Volvo's earlier 960's. Volvo ended production
of this
car after 98.
That said, 850 is a nice platform. A bit smaller, and with traction
control it's better in slick conditions than you'd expect in FWD, but expect
torque steer and FWD squirreliness. You can get this model with
a low pressure or high pressure turbo. In 98, they were restyled, and renamed
S/V/C 70 (for Sedan, Vagon or Coupe). Some new features and engineering
were incorporated but it's essentially the same car as the 850.
Engine is an inline 5 cylinder. Most reviewers on this board
recommend a turbo as the NA base engine is a little sluggish...and it's
noisier.
Older 940's won't have the features of the updated 960's but you
can get it with a turbo. Not as powerful or as quiet as the 850, so I'd
recommend the 850 over the 940.
When we replace our 940 this spring, we'll look for a 97 or 98
960/V90 with the winter package.
--
David M (98 S70 T5SE misc mods, mostly lighting) (92 940 GLE
160K)
David already has a good comparation and opinion.
One minor thing I remember at the time I bought my 850, the length
of 940 is longer than 850, but the volumn (useful length/width) is higher
than
the 940. I cannot recall the 940 is the same length as the 960
or not.
That mean on my own opinion, I pay same $ (roughly) for a bigger
volumn of 850. And for me, FWD is a must in Canadian winter. PChiu
Re: 850 or 940 - which is the better car?[850] [post reply]
Bryan Goldberg -- Thursday, 13 December 2001, at 2:44 p.m.
Hi David,
I heard from my dealer that S is for Sedan, C is for coupe and V is for "variant."
Yannis, it that true?
Bryan
--
'98 S70 GLT w/Bilsteins, IPD strut brace, K&N filter
No matter what anyone tells you (probably that V is for versatility),
V is for 'vagn,' the Swedish word for wagon, or more precisely, vehicle.
All
other explanations of 'V' come under the category of 'marketing,
uh, male bovine feces.'
The V simply doesn't fit into the English scheme of things the
way 'S' and 'C' do. (In England, 'S' is for 'saloon,' their term for a
sedan; they call a
wagon and 'estate.')
--
David M (98 S70 T5SE misc mods, mostly lighting) (92 940 GLE
160K)
Though FWD has some getting-going advantages on slick surfaces,
I prefer the RWD because you can decelarate and stop with stability,
without the intervention of ABS, TRACS and EBD. Just as importantly
you intuitively control a skid. (That said, the new systems in FWD give
back some of that control.)
The laws are simple physics. In a RWD vehicle, when you take your
foot off the gas, the rear wheels decelerate first, keeping the rear end
from
swinging out past the nose. This is why semi-trailers have special
systems for applying the brakes to the trailer first, otherwise they'd
jackknife.
And in my case, I'm worried more about stopping in the snow than
going. (On the other hand, when you step on the gas in RWD on a slick
surface, the back end wants to swing out. Bad if you're in a
hurry, great if you want to spin donuts or do racing-style drift turns.)
FWD's major liabilities in winter come with torque steer, which
can induce a condition called fish-nosing. This has resulted in many a
black-ice
spin because once an FWD is going sideways, it's almost impossible
to recover. FWD's can also tunnel, or snow-plow, in medium deep
greasy snow - a condition in which the car keeps going straight
even though your wheels are turned.
So each car has it's winter advantages (and AWD has the advantages of both).
Today, ABS, TRACS and EBD make the FWD car more stable than any
of the FWD's I've owned previously in these conditions. A recent tour
on roads with black ice and a skim of snow proved much, much
better than expected this past weekend. But the real test will be this
winter, my
first with the S70 on New Hampshire's sleety-slushy-snowy-blowy
coastal highway. Check with me in March. I may agree with you by then.
--
David M (98 S70 T5SE misc mods, mostly lighting) (92 940 GLE
160K)
"The laws are simple physics."
You'd be surprised how complex the laws of physics are.
Years ago, in one of my classes in dynamics (mechanical engineering),
my teacher did a little demonstration. He took two wooden, toy cars
and let them free-fall down an inclined plane. They both tracked
straight and true. Then, using pins, he locked the front wheels from rotating
and
repeated the experiment. He did the same, locking the rear wheels.
He repeated the experiment several more times locking individual wheels.
Before he conducted the experiment, he took a poll of the class
to determine which configuration would yield the most stable results, and
which
would yield the least stable results. Of course, we all said
that if you locked the front wheels, the cars would be the most unstable.
After the experiment was finshed, we had to model the situation
using math, and I have long since lost the knowledge to explain, using
the
principles of physics, why the experiment resulted the way it
did.
Would anyone care to hazard a guess as to which configuration
is the most, or least stable?
I saw this in engrg. school as well. I think it is a favorite
of physics profs. Locked rear wheels were the most unstable in that the
tendency of the
model was for the rear to swing around to the front. Rule of
thumb is that the wheels that lose traction want to lead the car. Explanation
was that
locked or accelerating wheels exceed the frictional traction
of the tires on the road easier than freely rotating wheels. Early write-ups
of the
advantages of front wheel drive in slippery conditions often
attributed this to the vehicle being pulled, rather than pushed, by the
wheels. In fact,
it had more to do with which wheels would lose traction first.
You're right that the physics aren't that simple (but they're
simpler than astrophysics). In any event, your example is irrelevant because
the rear
wheels on RWD vehicles would never lock up by themselves (not
even in the truck example as the trailing brake system is designed to apply
a
small slowing force. I imagine the engineers who design these
systems are aware of the experiment you've mentioned). Taking your foot
off the
gas in RWD is similar, it applies a small slowing force from
the rear.
Lose traction, FWD or RWD, and all bets are off...though I'd rather be in RWD for it's ability to steer out of a skid.
When an FWD vehicle is a serious contender on a race course or
as a true performance vehicle, I'll be more open to the idea of FWD as
a
player. I've driven both in winter (though not my current S70
with the extra gismos on it), and for unaided slowing and stopping my experience
has been RWD is better than FWD. And trying to steer out of a
skid in FWD is extremely difficult as the skip barber people will tell
you.
FWD was created primarily (I'm not saying exclusively) to reduce
weight and thus improve fuel efficiency by permitting transverse mounting,
thus cab-forward design.
--
David M (98 S70 T5SE) (92 940 GLE)
If you have any experiences, facts, hints comments or data that you think might be useful on the site, please
and I will post it, with an acknowledgement of your contribution (if you so wish).