This is a cheap, simple & effective way of close coupling N gauge rolling stock to achieve a nearer to scale `gap' between coaches, giving a more realistic look to trains without any expensive or complicated replacement couplings. The models shown here are `Ready to Run' Graham Farish `BG' and `Express Parcels' coaches which have been modified by myself in the manner described below. Close coupling of these models is achieved by a simple modification to the existing standard couplings and requires no extra parts, just a sharp Scalpel, a sanding block (or emery board), some slow setting `Super Glue' and a little time & patience.
The gap between coaches is shortened to 3.7mm (measured between the corridor connections with the coaches coupled on straight track), the coach on the left (BG) has the `short' coupling, the coach on the right (Express Parcels) has an unmodified standard sprung coupling on this end and the buffers on this coach have been removed to allow the close coupled coaches to negotiate sharp `7 & 1/2 inch' radius curves on part of the Stoneybridge Railway. You do not have to remove the buffers unless your layout has curves of less than `10 and a half inch' radius. Coaches close coupled in this way will safely traverse Peco Setrack Medium Radius points & curves without removing its buffers.
Note: You will have to remove the buffers from One End of each close coupled coach if your layout has 9 inch radius curves, which is the recommended minimum for N gauge trackwork and is also the tightest curve available in `Peco Setrack' points (Short/Small) and the tightest sections of `setrack' fixed radius curves.
First remove the bogie from the coach, gently turn the coupling in the coupler pocket & carefully remove the coupling and the spring which sits in the pocket, the spring holds the coupling in the level running position, keep the spring as a spare which will come in very handy when one zips off across the room, It's amazing how far these tiny springs can travel when you dont want them to, ;-). The above photograph shows a standard sprung coupling on the Right hand coach and the shortened coupling on the left hand coach which is achieved by removing the plastic `T' bar that sits in the coupler pocket on the bogie. I simply remove the bar carefully with a sharp scalpel and gently `square up' the back (the side closest to the coach where the spring & T-bar was) by drawing it over a sanding block until the coupling sits level, I check it is level against the front of the bogie coupler pocket by eye, also checking it against an unmodified coach making sure the couplings will mate at the correct height. If you do not sand the back flat the coupling will not sit level which can cause the coupling to `let go' occasionally when you dont want it to!
It is then simply a case of glueing the modified `short' coupling to the front of the coupler pocket on the bogie, I roughen up the faces to be glued by carefully scratching them with the tip of a scalpel blade to give the glue something to `key' into ensuring a strong bond, I then use Humbrol Thick Cyanoacrylate glue, which is slow setting (35-45 seconds) allowing me enough time to place the coupling correctly before the glue `bites'.
The `short' coupling modification is only done on ONE end of each coach, the other end retaining its sprung coupling, this allows for enough `play' in the connection to negotiate curves points & crossings without any trouble.
Some of my own close coupled stock at the Stoneybridge carriage sidings, All my coaches have been modified using the methods shown on this page making them have a much closer to prototypical gap between vehicles while still being able to negociate `9 inch radius' curves. Some of these vehicles have also been fitted with `gangway connections' made from folded black paper
