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These are all things that you can get at a stained glass store.

First I'm going to explain the basic tools that you'll need for doing stained glass; then I'll try to explain what they are and the basic cost along with where to get the items mentioned.

This is the basic equipment needed (in no particular order):

Glass Cutter
Soldering Iron - at least 60w, not an electrician's iron.
Breaking pliers, or sometimes called grozing pliers.
12" Ruler
Magic marker permanent
Paint marker (not absolutely necessary).
50/50 Solder
60/40 Solder
1/4" Foil (for beginners)
Scissors
Fid, or a rubbing stick of some kind.
Glass Cleaner
Light Box (not absolutely necessary).
Flux
Flux brush, or a cheap paint brush
Patina
Pattern Books

The stuff on this list can be found mainly at a stained glass store; if it's anywhere else, it may be of a lower quality or a higher price. Other things can be found in your local hardware store. The following below is a summary of the above list and then some. The prices are based from my experience, which I think are pretty accurate. Also the prices here are listed for you to get an idea of how expensive stained glass equipment can be. And BTW, don't e-mail asking for supplies because I don't sell supplies. The prices are for educational purposes only. This is not an on-line catalog.

Glass Cutting Equipment:

1. The steel wheel cutter: This is the cheapest cutter you can get. It's usually for the basic handyman; it can mainly cut window glass. Though it can cut colored glass (the glass we use), it can be tough; you need to apply more pressure and you may have cuts that don't break in the right place. It's good for the beginner because they can learn what sound a glass score makes, and it's OK if it's damaged because it's so cheap. General price is around $1.00 to $2.00; it can usually be found in hardware stores.
2. The Carbide Cutter: This is the next step up. It cuts a little easier (you'll notice the difference). This is also a good beginner's cutter, so you might want to try this one first. Cost around $8.00 to $10.00; it can also be found in hardware stores, glazing shops, etc.
3. The Tungsten Carbide Cutter: This is a much more advanced cutter. It cuts glass very easily. Mainly recommended for stained glass people or people who cut a lot of glass. This type of cutter also comes in a variety of shapes and sizes, like pistol grip & pencil. Cost around $15.00 to $40.00.

Different Styles:

1. Pencil type: looks like a pencil, or more like a lumpy pencil. It can really be gripped in any direction.
2. Pistol type: it's shaped something like a gun (hence the name pistol). It's better for people who have weak wrists, and just can't get enough pressure down to get a good cut.

Pliers:

1. Breaking Pliers: There are actually three types.
   • The combination breaking/grozing - this is the type most commonly sold, and you'll be most likely to buy this one. Cost is around $8.00 to $15.00
   • Breaking pliers usually 3/4" - 1" wide (tip). It's meant to break glass (of course) but it's pretty good at breaking thinner strips of glass. I personally never used this.
   • Grozing pliers - it has serrations and looks like the combination pliers only the jaws are straighter. I personally never even saw one of these in person; you'll probably never find one, so don't bother looking around for one.
2. Running Pliers:
   • Normal breaking pliers - they come in plastic and metal. The metal ones are much stronger and should last you forever. I had a plastic one for a while but I broke it, then switched to the metal one. Running pliers are generally designed for straight cuts. Cost is around $12.00 to $20.00 for the metal ones.
   • Ring Star Pliers (made by Glasstar) - I wasn't sure if I wanted these or not. They are designed to break deep cuts and thin cuts. If you get these, you will like them as I do. There are a few things to know though; first you may have to re-learn how to break glass. This cutter makes a tiny micro run, the type you get when you push on a crack in a sheet of glass. You have to trust the break, then move on, if you don't you may shatter the glass. The second thing is, it has a limited reach which is kind of a pain. After I practiced with it, I cut a mirror tile with a 1/2" border on 3 sides, it looked like a big U, and it broke out really nicely with this tool. Cost is around $20.00

Miscellaneous Equipment for glass:

1. A score board - it's a device that allows you to cut constantly accurate pieces. It's great for box making or making lamps. Whenever you need to make a lot of one type of cut, whether straight or angled, this is the tool to get. Morton also makes a similar system but I don't like it as much. Cost for either around $50.00
2. A Strip Cutter - it's also good if you make boxes. You need to set up a jig on your bench to use this tool to its full potential, usually a 3/4" lip around the bench works (like in my shop). Besides evenly cutting box sides, it's also good for cutting a smaller section of a piece of glass if needed. Most strip cutters also have a circle cutting attachment. I never really use that part of it, it's difficult to use unless you're cutting large circles which I never do. Cost is around $15.00 to $30.00
3. The Lens Cutter - it's designed for cutting circles sizes between 1/2" to 3" or so. I use this quite a bit when making my cars. It makes easier work of cutting those little wheels on my cars. The cons: it's hard to find the center point, so it's difficult to measure how big a circle you need. It's also harder to keep the glass in place when you're scoring; there's always one hand in the way. Cost around $50.00 to $80.00
4. Light Box - this (I think), is necessary. Used to transfer designs to glass, or to paper. Currently I don't own the one I'm using, (it's my mother's). I supposed I can build one, but I just don't have to space for a new one. Cost is around $50.00 to $200.00 or more, depending on size, type, and if you build one for yourself or not.
5. A Glass Grinder - I label this as necessary. It's used to smooth out glass edges, to prevent cutting yourself, and you'll get better sticking foil. If you don't have one, you should get one. You'll find that you'll get better fitting joints too. The grinder should ALWAYS be used wet. You MUST fill the reservoir with water and make sure there's water splashing up onto the glass. Cost is around $60.00 to $250.00 I really can't suggest what is the best type. I use Inland for most of my grinders. Some like Glasstar, but it's really up to you, and what available in your area.
6. A Ruler - you'll want to find a plastic ruler (I like clear), that's around 6" to 12" long. Make sure the measurements start right on the edge (with no gap in between the first line and the starting end of the ruler). This type is for the strip cutter. I found it's one of the easier ways to measure a spot for the strip cutter.
7. Cutting Oil - you'll need something to oil your cutter with. They sell commercial cutting oil if you're too lazy to make some of your own, Personally, I make mine . To make your own, all you need is a 50/50 mixture of kerosene and 3-in-1 oil. I stick mine in a film can (and label it). When I need some, I just pull the head off my cutter (providing that's the type of cutter you have), and carefully pour it in. Though sometime I'll use an eyedropper for that task. Cost is around $2.00 to $4.00
8. Grinder Coolant - this really isn't all that necessary. I found it helps to keep the bit from clogging, though most of all, I found it's easier to remove the glass slime when there's still water in the grinder. It actually forms a gel over the powdered glass at the bottom, so when I scrape it up, the slime doesn't spread out and disperse as much. Cost is around $2.00 to $4.00

Foiling Equipment:

1. The Foil - choose whatever size you need, and if you need any help go to the foil page. I use Edco brand foil. You can recognize the package by the lack of its name. For some reason, Edco doesn't put their brand name on the bag. The bag is clear with a white center. Usually the lettering is done in the color that matches the ring, and the rings color usually indicates the thickness of the foil. I mainly like Edco because it sticks the best for me. The other brand that I know of is Venture, which is also a pretty good brand. Cost is around $2.50 to $5.00 depending on size and location.
2. The Fid - is generally a piece of wood the size of a pencil, and is used to rub down the foil. I use a dowel that's been sharpened in a pencil sharpener; whenever it gets banged up, I just re-sharpen it. Fid's are generally used to widen the channel in lead came, though you can adapt them to flatten foil. Cost is usually around $1.00, unless you make your own, and that's the cost of a 1/4" dowel.
3. Scissors - I found that using sewing scissors works really well. The type I use is the kind that you push down to cut, then it springs back up at me. It saves a little time using this kind. Generally you'll want a small, sharp pair. This is not to be confused with pattern shears; these would only be meant to cut foil.
4. A Towel - you'll want to find an old used, worn out towel (the kind you dry yourself off with). This works best to dry your pieces after washing. Cost is free if you have one already.
5. This last one you'll have to dig up from somewhere. I use a small piece of thick glass to flatten out the sharp corners of the piece that I'm foiling. This is usually a pre-step before rubbing it down. It prevents me from pricking my finger on them. I used to use the remote control from the TV (that I watch while foiling), but it's starting to get a bit scratched up.

There also is an automatic foiler available, along with hand held ones, but I found that my hands are much more efficient than any machine.

Soldering Equipment:

OK, here is the soldering list:

1. The Soldering Iron - read what's mentioned above. You'll want to find an iron that not only has a hot tip, usually around 800-1100 degrees Fahrenheit but can maintain that heat. As you solder, it uses up heat, which in turn cools the tip. This means the line you're trying to bead may get peaks and valleys. It needs a constant flow of heat. It should also have an idle temperature. This means once it gets to its hottest temperature, it stays there and doesn't get any hotter. If it does, the tip or the heater element may burn out. The other thing to think about is how the cord is designed. Some look like lamp cords and are easy to bend (the kind I like). The other is thicker, which always seems to have a mind of it's own. Cost around $40.00 to $100.00 or so.
2. The Soldering Iron Stand - most irons comes with a stand, but it's usually garbage. So you should buy your self a decent stand. I have an electrician's type. It looks like a big spring. There's also a place to put my sponge. Cost around $15.00.
3. The Sponge - you keep this wet at all times. It doesn't have to be saturated, but it shouldn't be dry either. Every so often you'll want to wipe the junk off the iron. Don't use a normal sponge for this, it contains sulfur and stuff in it, (or at least that's what the soldering iron sponge people say). They really don't cost much and they last a pretty long time, so I usually go with the flow. Cost $1.00.
4. The Tinning Block, or The Salamoniac Block - you use one of these to tin you iron. I'll explain how to use this in the tool maintenance page. Cost around $2.00 to $4.00.
5. The Rheostat - this is used to regulate the temperature of the iron. It isn't a bad idea to get this. You can use it for smoother beads, (in case your beads are falling through the seams of the foil). Or for decorative soldering. However, the rheostat does not work with WELLER brand irons; they have some sort of built in method of regulating the temperature. It may also not work well with irons with built in rheostats (which BTW doesn't work as well as a normal iron)
6. General Solder - you'll want to get a roll of 50/50 and a roll of 60/40. Brand doesn't make a huge difference. Though Canfield brand, (as I understand it anyway), is of a much higher quality and purity. Their 50/50 is like the 60/40 of other brands. I tested that theory; it does melt at a lower temperature, though it may cost you a little more. 50/50 is the filler solder. It's used to fill in the cracks and to do the tinning. 50/50 is usually cheaper than the other stuff; that's why I use it as a filler. 60/40 is the bead solder. I use it to draw all of my beads. Cost for 50/50 is around $4.95 to $7.00. Cost for 60/40 is around $5.00 to $10.00. Generally I found the cheapest solder price usually reflects the percentage. For instance, 50/50 I've gotten for $5.50, and 60/40 I've gotten for around $7.00.
7. Fancy Solders - these you won't need immediately. They're meant for jewelry work or decorative soldering. They are:
   • Ultimate (63/37) - meant for decorative soldering work. It has an instant freeze, with no pasty range. Ultimate comes in 1/8" standard, and 1/16" for very small work.
   • Quickset - a beading solder with a similar quick freeze effect.
   • Lead Free - meant for jewelry work. I wouldn't use it near food. Though it doesn't have lead in it, it does have other nasty materials in it.
8. Flux - you need this so the solder will stick to the foil. It removes oxidation from the foil so the solder can attach itself to it. Get the liquid kind, not the paste (which is meant for plumbing). You don't want to breathe this stuff in, and try not to get any on your hands; it'll suck the moisture right out of them. Also be sure after soldering to wash up really well, because you'll have little flux droplets all over you...eww. There are different kinds of specialty flux available here's a list of the ones of can remember.
   • Mirror Flux - supposedly this will keep mirror from turning black. I never really use it because it's really gooey stuff. It tends to smoke quite a bit as well. And it's a pain to remove, but I have it in case I need it.
   • Oleic Acid - I have the stuff, but never used it, I think it was for old lead windows. You really don't need the stuff.
   • Paste Flux - this is what plumbers use to solder pipes together. It stays liquid enough so the solder will stick while the torch is on it. It's not a terrible Idea to have the stuff on hand. It can be used; some people swear by it, or maybe even at it...who knows? But someone told me that, if I wanted to go on vacation but was in the middle of a project, I could use this to keep the solder from oxidizing. I would simply have to spread the glop over the solder lines, and when I come back I could start soldering, kind of like that stain sealer they sell for laundry. It would be a pain to remove though.
9. A Hunk of Marble or Similar Stone - I use this to solder chain or to place hot filigree. It's just a nice sturdy surface to work on if needed. Cost is a couple of bucks (if that), bought at a garage sale, which is where I buy a lot of stuff.
10. Hemostat- this can usually be found in a flea market, though lately they're popping up in catalogs. Hemostats are used by doctors, to yank at people's guts. I use them to hold chain in place, or filigree, or hinges. You'll want to find different sizes. They shouldn't rust because most of the time they're stainless steel. Cost is around $2.00 to $10.00 depending on size and where you get it.
11. Pliers - they're used to bend and cut wire, to hold things, etc. Buy yourself a good pair. These can be found at hardware stores or at garage sales. If you get it at a garage sale, do this simple check: first open and close it. Does it at least do that? Then look at the center hub. Is it just a circle, or are there little 'spokes' coming out of it? If there is, that's the sign of a higher quality pliers. Then grab the front of it (the nose) and twist it back and fourth (as if you were working a tooth loose). If there is any give (movement) they may not be good pliers. Also all pliers that you get should have rubber coated handles. Besides getting a better grip, it prevents the handle from rusting after it's exposed to flux. Cost, new, around $5.00 to $30.00; used .25 to 1.00, (for each pair of pliers). This is a list of the ones that you should have:
    • Regular Needle Nose - generally long and stout. You should get the ones with the cutting edge at the bottom. It's used for bending and cutting wire. Good for making wire loops, and other bent wire things. Occasionally it's used to remove pieces of broken glass.
    • Bent Needle Nose - it looks like a normal needle nose only it's bent. It's good for getting around corners. For a beginner, this won't be used all that much, and as a professional, you may use it every so often.
    • Diagonal Cutters - this is what electricians use quite a bit. It's used to cut wire only. Everyone should have one of these.
    • End Cutter - these also cut wire. Sometimes the diagonal pliers don't fit into certain angles, but these should. You can also use them to pull nails.
    • Lineman's - these pliers are mainly used by electricians. They have a large cutting surface for real thick wire. You should have one of these as well.

Finishing Equipment

1. Soap - I use Joy. Basically you want to find a cleaner that's clear in color, and doesn't have a bunch of stuff in it to make your hands softer. This may put a coating on your piece.
2. Baking Soda - used with the soap, it will help remove flux and some oxidation.
3. Scrub Brush - a nylon nail brush works pretty well. I put a drop of soap in the middle and shake some baking soda on the project and on the brush. Rub it in with water, and you'll get a clean project.
4. Flux and Patina Remover - I really can't say you'll ever need this. I personally could never get it to work right. It's kind of a pain to remove it. Besides removing flux, it's also supposed to remove the colorful film you get on the glass after patinaing but I never got the stuff to work right. Cost is around $3.00 to $5.00.
5. Metal Polish - I use Semi-Chrome, a pink paste. Almost any polish will work. You'll want to find one with a light grit in it. You'll get a shiny copper after polishing your piece (providing you used copper patina). Don't use it on black patina because a lot of the black will come off and you'll end up with gray.
6. Finishing Compound - I use Chem-O-Pro; I really don't know of any others. You put some on an old T-shirt, (I usually shake the bottle first, it tends to settle), and lightly rub in over the project. You'll want to hit every spot of the project, inside, outside, all over the glass too. After you wait a few minutes you buff off the haze, and you get a nice shiny, protected, project.

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Started on 9-22-98