Chapter One -- So, you wanna fly, huh?
Author?s Note:
Much of the first part of Chapter One has been taken from articles found on the World Wide Web/Internet. Certain modifications have been made by the author in order to bring the information herein up to date.
Here are some Frequently Asked Questions.......
Q: What is all this toy plane stuff about?
A: They're not toy planes, they're model planes. The hobby is called Model Aeronautics, and we fly remote control model aircraft. In every way they're just like full-scale aircraft (don't call them real aircraft, model aircraft are real aircraft too). Any maneuver a full-scale plane can perform, so can a scaled down model version of that plane. Model aircraft are subject to all the laws of physics and aeronautics that full-scale aircraft are subject to. When you scale down an aircraft, you can't also scale down the air molecules it has to fly in, which makes flying model planes a challenge. Generally, the larger a plane is, the easier it is to fly. It's a lot easier to fly a full-scale Piper Cub than a 1/4 scale one, and that's easier to fly than a 1/6 scale one. Many model aircraft pilots are also full-scale pilots and they find the model aeronautics a challenge. They'll tell you that it's a whole lot more difficult to fly a model of an aircraft than the full-scale version. For one thing, flying a model gives you no seat-of-the pants feel for what the aircraft is doing. You must rely on your eyes, ears and instincts to tell you what your gut or instrumentation would in a full-scale plane.
Q: Okay then what is Aeromodeling about?
A: Different people get into Model Aeronautics for different reasons. Some like to build model aircraft, some like to fly them, some like to do both, some are into competition, some are into the engineering challenge, some want to build detailed scale replicas of full-scale aircraft and some are just looking for any excuse to get out of the house on the weekends.
Q: Should I first learn to fly a model plane or a helicopter?
A: Planes are easier to fly and less expensive to start with. They're also less complicated.
Q: How do you control these things?
A: A standard aircraft has four basic controls: the ailerons which banks the plane (rolls left and right), the elevator which controls the plane's attitude (nose up or down), the rudder which turns the planes left and right and also steers it on the ground, and the throttle. A basic radio control system has four channels (one channel for each control). They make multi-channel radios up to nine channels. These extra channels can be used for extra scale controls such as retractable landing gear and flaps.
A basic radio system's components consist of a transmitter which you use to control the plane, a receiver which is installed in the plane and picks up your transmitter signal and decodes it into control signals for the servos. The servos are small motor driven units that move the plane's control surfaces in response to the control stick movements. There is one servo for each channel. Two planes on the same frequency cannot fly at the same time, or they'll interfere with each other and get "shot down". Radios come with a variety of frequencies also called channels (not to be confused with the control channels on the radio). Every flying field uses some system of frequency management, usually a frequency board with channel pins, to prevent two planes on the same frequency from flying at the same time. Most fields limit you to a fifteen minute use of the channel, after which you must allow someone else on that frequency to fly. While you are not using the frequency, your radio must be placed in a ?Radio Impound? to prevent accidental transmission. This is for your protection. You don't want someone else inadvertently shooting you down, and you don't want to shoot someone else down. Accepted courtesy means that you are obligated to pay for someone's plane if you damage it by turning on your transmitter when not authorized to. Believe me, you do not want to shoot down someone's $4,000 scale F-15 jet!
A standard four channel radio transmitter has two control "sticks" the right stick controls the ailerons (left & right) and the elevator (up & down) and works just like a full-scale plane's control stick or yoke. Pulling back on the stick brings the nose up in flight, push forward points it down. The left stick controls the Rudder (left & right) and the throttle (up & down). Full-scale pilots are taught to fly using coordinated aileron and rudder. With most models smaller than 1/4 scale (or 70" wingspan) you can ignore the Rudder except for take-offs and landings. An instructor will not even allow you to use the Rudder or Throttle for the first few flights, to allow you to concentrate on using the primary stick.
Q: What kind of engines do these planes use?
A: Model engines come in sizes from .025 cubic inch (the little Cox control line planes you may have flown in your childhood used these) all the way up to four cubic inches. Most sport plane engines are in the .25 to .90 cubic inch range. Most are Two-Stroke engines which provide power on every revolution of the crankshaft. These engines are simple, inexpensive and reliable. Some engines are Four-Stroke and use push rods and valves just like an automobile engine. These engines are more complicated, heavier and expensive than Two-Strokes, but are often used in scale models because of their realistic sound and power range. Four-Strokes deliver more torque than Two-Strokes, so they can spin a larger propeller. Most model engines have a single cylinder, although some varieties come with two or more cylinders (again, these are generally used on scale competition aircraft). There are even planes designed to run on Electric Motors. Electrics? are becoming very popular because of the noise problem associated with engines, particularly in Europe. Electric power is clean, but because of their power to weight ratio, electric planes don't make very good trainers.
Q: What kind of fuel do these engines run on?
A: Model aircraft run on a variety of fuels, but most run on Methanol; a form of Alcohol, with a small amount of Nitro-Methane (or Nitro) as an additive to allow easy starting and a good idle. This fuel is known as Glow fuel as it requires a Glow-Plug. Glow plugs screw into the cylinder head of the engine just like a spark plug, but instead of a spark, the Platinum wire in the plug glows (initially because you connect a battery to it to start the engine, but once started engine heat alone maintains the glow) and causes a catalytic reaction along with the compressed fuel resulting in combustion. Since model engines don't have oil pans, 15 - 25% of the fuel is Castor oil, synthetic oil, or some combination of the two to provide lubrication and cooling. This fuel is available in hobby shops with Nitro percentages of 0% (also known as FAI fuel) to 55%. For sport flying, 5 to 10% Nitro is all that's needed - anymore would damage a sport engine. Some exotic high compression competition engines require more Nitro. Jet (Ducted Fan) and Helicopter engines use special blends of fuel with higher percentages of oil. If you live in the United States, 10% fuel generally costs $14 - $16 per gallon.
Some larger engines use regular Gasoline mixed with motor oil, and have a familiar spark plug on them. Some engines run on Diesel fuel. There are even true model Jet-Turbine engines that run on Propane or Kerosene ($2,500 delivered to your door - step right up....). For the most part, though, the engines you'll be using run on Glow fuel. Glow has a lot of advantages: it has a high flash point temperature, is a lot friendlier to the environment than most fuels.
Q: Do these things crash?
A: And then some. Get used to it. If you fly for any length of time, you'll crash a plane sooner or later. It's part of the hobby so don't get discouraged. There are some very strict rules about where you can fly at a field just for this reason. Generally clubs restrict your flight to within a box encompassing one side and the ends of the runway. Flying over the pilots, the pits area, or spectators is strictly prohibited. When these rules are followed, planes generally crash in the safe area designated to fly in, and no one gets hurt.
Some crashes are worse than others, and you can almost always salvage at least the radio and the engine. If the plane goes in at a steep angle and at high speed, it's likely a goner, but it can usually be rebuilt if it comes in fairly flat. Never judge the re-buildability of a plane right after a crash - it's too hard to judge it dispassionately at that point. Pick up everything, all the little bits and pieces, put it in a garbage bag and take it home. Wait until you can look at it the next day, or have someone more experienced than you look at it and decide if it's salvageable.
Planes crash for a variety of reasons. Often it's pilot error, or poor maintenance. I've seen experienced pilots forget to let out the receiver antenna wire on a new plane (it should be straight and hanging out of the plane somewhere. Rarely interference will be the cause, but I've found a lot of people quick to blame interference for their carelessness. Sometimes the radio battery goes dead, so it's important to test your batteries with an ESV (Expanded Scale Voltmeter) before every flight to make sure they're up to it.
Q: I'm too old to learn to fly?
A: Not true. A lot of people get into modeling late in life. I'll grant you it's harder to teach a sixty year old than a twenty year old, but old dogs can learn new tricks. The most important thing to remember is that it helps to take as many lessons as possible in one day - it improves the learning curve. And try to stick to one instructor.
Q: These things look to hard to fly. They go too fast and I see them crash landing in the grass all the time.
A: Flying Model Planes isn't easy, but it's not hard either. Trainers are specifically designed to fly very slow and stable. A good instructor will trim your plane to fly at a slow manageable speed. Well designed trainers practically fly themselves - they're more like guided kites. It takes a while to teach your brain and hands the new reflexes you need to fly, and at first even the slow sedate speed of a Trainer will seem more than you can handle, but trust me, soon you'll be craving more speed. We all go through the speed thing. Some never get over it.
Landings are the hardest thing to learn, and even harder to learn to do right. To start with, a lot of beginners wind up in the grass, sometimes cart-wheeling the plane. It's okay, and won't hurt anything, just expect to straighten some bent landing gear on occasions. More than likely you'll break a lot of propellers to start with. Don't worry about it. I bought them by the handful when I started, now I buy a couple every year.
Q: Where should I fly?
A: You need to find a model flying field or club nearby. This shouldn't be a problem, they're everywhere. Many flying fields are private clubs and will charge you for membership. This membership fee pays for maintenance of the site, mowing of the grass, construction and maintenance of a weather enclosure.
Q: Can't I just fly in any large empty field?
A: You can, but you shouldn't, especially to start with. First off, you should learn to fly from an instructor, and they're at the flying fields. Second, most flying insurance won't cover you unless you fly with the permission of the owner of the property, and most property owners don't want the liability problem. Also, it is illegal to fly in certain areas, such as within three miles of an airport or heliport without permission from the control tower. Thirdly, you can never know what potential radio interference might be nearby, while at an existing flying field it will be well documented. Finally, you should never fly alone. This is a somewhat hazardous sport. You can easily do yourself serious injury. Should you be injured, it would be best if someone else was around to apply first aid, collect your equipment, and drive you to the hospital if necessary. Let?s fly smart.
Q: What kind of plane should I buy?
A: They make Trainer aircraft which are easy to fly and best for beginners. Some are in kit form, which can take 80 to 100 hours for a beginner to build. They also make ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) models which are 70 to 80% complete and already covered. These generally take 10 to 20 hours to build (the box might say a couple of evenings, but don't believe it). Generally, the bigger the model, the easier it is to fly, but a .40 size trainer (one designed for a .40 cubic inch engine) generally makes a good first plane. Don't be tempted to buy a P-51 Mustang or an F-16 Jet for starters. It'll take a while before you're ready for that.
Q: What do I need to get started?
A: Patience, and lots of it. Q: No, really.
A: Well you will need patience. To set you free to fly solo before your time is not fair to you and other people at the field. But other than that, first off, you need to carry third party flying insurance. This protects you in case of an accident (your plane hits somebody, a car, a moose, etc.), and gives you secondary personal injury coverage over and above what your personal health insurance covers you for. To do this, join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). Membership including insurance is $48 a year (At time of writing) (less for juniors). You can find an application at any hobby store or in the back of a Modeling magazine. You must carry your AMA card with you whenever you fly (some clubs make you wear it). Make a photocopy of your AMA membership form and the check you're paying with as most clubs will accept this as proof of insurance until your card comes in the mail.
Another, similar association, is the Sports Flyers Association (SFA). Check with your local club because not all clubs accept both AMA & SFA.
Q: Okay, but what kind of equipment do I need to get started?
A: A plane (of course!), an engine, a radio system, a gallon of fuel, some kind of fuel pump, a box of #64 rubber bands to hold the wing on, a glow driver (a battery that heats the engine's glow plug for starting), a chicken stick or electric starter (never start a plane by hand unless you know exactly what you're doing) and someone who's willing to teach you how to fly. Don't try to teach yourself! Go to the flying field and ask around. There's always some people willing to teach you, and you should not have to pay for it. A good instructor will check your plane out to make sure it's built right and safe to fly. He'll teach you how to start and adjust the engine, range check the radio, and maintain your equipment. On the average, you should be flying solo after about fifteen or twenty flights, some people take longer. I?ve know folks who solo after only 4 or 5 lessons.
Q: Okay, so where can I get all this stuff?
A: Check out your nearby hobby store. They can sell you everything. You might also see some used planes for sale there, or in the bargain trader. Most flying fields have a bulletin board with used planes for sale. People get out of the hobby all the time. You might be able to buy a plane complete with a flight box and all the accessories for a good price. But, remember, Buyer beware. If you want to buy used, get an experienced aeromodeller to check the equipment out BEFORE you buy.
Q: So how much is all this going to cost me?
A: It's a fallacy that Aeromodeling is an expensive hobby. Like all hobbies, you can spend a lot of money if you want to, but you don't have to. You should be able to get setup with a Trainer and all the accessories for $400 to $500 (US), depending on what you buy. If that sounds expensive compare it to starting up (and continuing to play) golf, mountain biking, skiing, photography, etc. Cheaper, if you buy second hand. ARF kits are more expensive to buy than regular kits, but they're easier to build and get you in the air quicker, and after you add all the incidentals you?ll need to finish your kit - glue, covering, hardware, etc., the ARF will work out cheaper in the end. Your first engine and radio need not be anything super-expensive or fancy. Just a basic non-ball bearing engine and an inexpensive 4-channel radio. I would recommend either an O.S. or Super Tiger engine. They're not the cheapest, but they're easy to setup and start. Ask the other pilots at the flying field you're planning to use about good frequencies for your radio, some channels are less used than others. Some channels are banned at certain flying fields because of nearby interference.
Q: What should I wear to the flying field?
A: Platform shoes, bell-bottom slacks, and a polo shirt (just kidding). You'll get messy out there, planes get covered in oil after flying, so wear something grungy. Depending on the time of year, you should dress comfortable. Jeans or shorts and a T-shirt will do. Wear an old pair of sneakers and socks, as they're going to get oil on them from the engine exhaust (the most common way to hold a plane on the taxi-way is to hold the tail between your legs, and the oily exhaust is gonna get all over your shoes, socks and pant legs). Take some sun-block along, you're going to spend some time out in the sun. A hat helps shade your eyes from the sun, and sunglasses are a must. Don't forget to wear your prescription glasses if you're nearsighted. In the summer, don?t forget the bug spray.
Q: So I've got my stuff, and I'm ready to go, but I can?t get an instructor
A: You haven't asked the right people. Sure, some people don't want to deal with newbies, but there's always somebody out there willing to teach you. Many clubs have a list of instructors you can choose from. We all go through a phase right after we learn to fly and think it'd be cool to teach others. Noble sentiments, but an instructor should be a well experienced pilot who's been doing this for a few years. There's usually some older guys out there who know everybody at the field. Ask them who the good instructors are. When you find one, remember he's out there to have a good time too, so let him fly his plane and take you up between flights. Sometimes he's got more than one student, so be patient. You can make things easier by fueling up your plane and getting everything ready to go before he's ready for you.
Now for some questions you should ask yourself.
There are four basic things you have to think about. Which aircraft to buy, which engine to buy, which radio to buy and what flight-line equipment do you need. As you might guess, in all of these categories you have choices. So following is a discussion of some of the pros and cons of the decisions you will be making. Some of these questions have been discussed above, but now we can look at them with a view of understanding your options. At the field, in the club house, at the hobby store you will be presented with options. There are rarely very bad choices (there are some, however) but armed with the knowledge of your options you will be able to make informed decisions. Always the best advice is to visit the club, meet the people and listen to their advise BEFORE YOU BUY. They?ve been there and done it ? several times.
Which Aircraft?
Since you are a beginner, you will need a plane that is considered a ?Trainer? This will be a high wing, slow flying simple aircraft. It should have four channels. That means four different controls. Aileron (for rolling/banking the plane), Elevator (for pitching the plane nose up and down), Rudder (for turning the plane) and Throttle (for regulating the engine speed). Your alternative would likely be a three channel plane which has no ailerons. If you go this route you?ll only have to learn to fly an aileron plane later. A trainer has a high wing because a high wing plane has a lot of stability, and, in fact, when properly trimmed, it will tend to right itself to level flight when the pilot releases the controls.
The main choices are, what size plane and do you buy a kit or an ARF and what type of construction.
What size? Most trainer planes come in a 40 or 60 size. And within these two, most are 40. ?40? & ?60? refers to the recommended engine size. 40 mean 0.4 cubic inch (ci) or 6 cubic centimeters (cc) capacity and 60 means 0.6 ci or 10 cc. The most popular is the 40 size. Obviously the 40 size plane is less expensive than a 60 size plane.
Kit or ARF? ARF stands for ?Almost Ready to Fly?. A kit plane is usually less expensive to buy than an ARF, initially, but it?s final cost may be higher after buying all the incidentals like glue, covering material and hardware. A kit requires a much higher model building skill. It also takes a long time to finish the model. The ?Up? side is there is a lot more kits to choose from than ARF?s. And some folks really like the ?Building? side of the hobby as much as the flying.
What Construction? Most kits require a box frame or stick building technique that is covered in a heat shrink plastic film (MonoKote TM or UltraKote TM, for example). The alternative choice would be foam core for the wing. Since you are likely to cause some minor damage to the plane during your student time, you will find that a conventional balsa and ply built-up wing and fuselage will be easier to repair. If you choose an ARF, they come with the same choice. In addition, some ARFs use non-traditional covering materials. Again keeping to a Monokote TM or Ultracote TM will make any repairs easier.
Summary (Prices are approximate):
40 size Trainer Kit
Kit ($70 - $90)
Glue (CA and Epoxy) ($15)
MonoKote TM covering ($30)
Building equipment and tools ($20)
Additional hardware ($30)
40 size ARF
ARF kit ($120 - $140)
Building equipment and tools ($20)
Glue (CA and Epoxy) ($15)
Additional hardware ($10)
Which Engine?
Assuming you choose a 40 size plane, the manufacture will probable recommend a range of engine sizes from a .40 to a .46. So, do you buy a .40 or a .46? A .40 will be less expensive and will fly you new plane very well. The .46 will also fly your plane very well and it will have some excess power available to your instructor to get you our of trouble when needed. If you don?t want to use all the extra power of the .46, you can simply throttle back. My recommendation is to go with the larger engine. The larger engine may give you more options when you are ready to move up to your second aircraft. Other choices include what make of engine and should it have ball bearings? Some manufacturers may refer to the size of their engines in cubic centimeters (cc). The conversion is simple. Since there are approximately 16 cc to 1 ci, simply divide the cc number by 16 to obtain the engine?s ci.
Ball-bearing or not? Clearly, the most popular .40 engines used for a trainer are the OS 40 FP TM and the Thunder Tiger 40 GP. Both are fine inexpensive engines. Neither of them have ball-bearings. A ball-bearing engine is significantly more expensive but they last longer and they develop more power than a similar size non-ball-bearing engine.
Manufacturer? The most popular engine manufacturers used in trainers are OS TM, Enya TM, ASP TM, Thunder Tiger TM. All are excellent engines, some boast more power, easier starting, longer life, etc. In general, you can?t go wrong with any of them, but always think of what you want to do with it after you have learned to fly.
2 Cycle or 4 Cycle? Definitely stick to a 2 Cycle engine. They are much less expensive, easier to install and easier to operate. You do not want to risk losing or damaging a very expensive 4 Cycle (sometimes referred to as 4 Stroke) engine in a crash.
Summary (Prices are approximate):
40 size Engine
Non-Ball-Bearing ($70)
Ball-Bearing ($130)
60 size Engine
Non-Ball-Bearing ($90)
Ball-Bearing ($150)
Which Radio?
Buy new! This sounds like an obvious statement, but it?s not. It is sometimes tempting to buy a used radio, cheap, from an magazine or newspaper advertisement. This is not wise because the law regarding legal frequencies changed in 1991. Radios today must be ?Narrow Band? radios. They operate at approximately 72 Mhz on 50 different frequencies, called channels ( not to be confused with the number of control channels a radio system has) Each channel is separated from its adjacent channel by only 20Khz. So it is imperative to use the correct system.
What Channel/Frequency? The available channels for aircraft use are channel 11 through channel 60. Some clubs only allow even channels. A few use only odd channels. Most allow all legal channels. Ask you club what are the most popular channels and stay away from these so that you will have few frequency conflicts when you go flying. Also ask you club if there are any dis-allowed channels (usually because of local interference from radio or TV stations nearby). Obviously avoid these too. Other channels are available, but they are reserved, by law, to surface models - boats and cars. Do Not use these. You wouldn?t want your nice new, expensive, time consuming plane to crash because someone in the street next to you turns on his radio controlled car.
What Manufacturer? Well, they?re all good - FutabaTM, AirtronicsTM, JRTM, Tower HobbiesTM, etc. But here?s the deal. If you are new to the hobby you will want flight instruction. Ask at your club what ?Buddy Boxes? the instructors use. These are ?Dummy? transmitters that connect through a cable to the real transmitter, effectively providing ?Dual Controls? much in the same manner that you?d find on a student driver automobile. This is the safest way to learn to fly. If most of the instructors have FutabaTM buddy boxes, you should buy a FutabaTM radio that has a buddy box connection. The Tower Hobbies 4FMTM radio is also compatible with a Futaba TM buddy box connections.
What Type? . The Futaba ?Attack? TM radio IS NOT COMPATIBLE even with a Futaba Buddy Box. Also we don?t recommend this model because it is and AM system. The Futaba ?Conquest?TM is a 4 channel FM system that is most popular (The basic Conquest M come with 3 servos, you have to buy the fourth). Some folks will buy the Futaba ?SkySport?TM 6 channel radio. The SkySportTM is only a little more expensive than the Conquest TM, but it does give you two more channels and it gives you dual rates and some channel mixing (You may want this with your second plane). The basic SkySport TM come with 4 servos as standard. A final option is a computer radio that provide you many more features. One of which is it can store the control settings for multiple aircraft.
Summary (Prices are approximate):
4 Channel FM + one servo ($160)
6 Channel FM ($200)
Computer Radio ($350- $1000)
Flight-Line Equipment
Essentially, you need fuel and a means to fill the gas tank. You will need something to ignite the glowplug and a method of starting your engine.
Fuel. A good start is 10% nitro such as ?Cool Power?TM. This has a synthetic lubricating oil mix. If you prefer a castor oil lubricant, ?Omega?TM fuel is a popular choice. Synthetic oil is less messy, but the purists insist on using caster oil. It?s come down to a personal choice.
Fuel Pump. Can be by hand using a ?Six-shooter?TM type hand pump or an electric pump. Again, personal choice. Both pumps are about the same price ($15) but the electric pump needs a 12 volt battery (More on this later).
Glowplug Igniter. You can either buy a self-contained igniter which simply clips to the glowplug while you start the engine. This contains a rechargeable battery. Or, if you want to buy a 12 volt battery (See below) you can also buy a ?Control panel? One of the services of the control panel is to provide a glowplug voltage. This is connected to the glowplug by a special cable. The self-contained igniter works well when your engine is run in and working OK. If you are doing work on your engine that requires the glowplug to be ignited for long periods of time, the self-contained igniter?s battery will soon go flat. If you buy a self-contained igniter you should consider buying one that includes an Amp meter. This device measures the current passing through the glowplug. It is a good indication that the battery is OK and the glowplug is not burned out.
Starter. Either hand start your engine by flicking it by hand using a ?Chicken Stick?TM or use an electric starter. Obviously, the electric starter is fairly expensive. It is recommended to buy a ?Heavy Duty? starter because that will work for bigger engines that you will probably migrate to later. Again, the electric starter needs a 12 volt battery. One option that is becoming popular is a self-contained starter that has it?s own battery pack.
The Battery. There are two types of 12 volt battery on the market. One is like a car battery that you have to fill up with acid. (Lead Acid type) and the other one is sealed and requires no maintenance (Gel type). The Gel type is about twice the price of the lead acid type, but it is the recommended choice - strongly.
Summary (Prices are approximate):
Economy Flight-Line list
1 gallon of fuel (10% nitro) ($15)
36? fuel line ($5)
?Six Shooter?TM type pump ($15)
Self-contained Glowplug igniter with Ammeter and charger ($30)
?Chicken Stick?TM starter ($6)
Deluxe Flight-Line list
1 Gallon Fuel (10% nitro) ($15)
36? fuel line ($5)
12 volt Gel Battery ($35)
Heavy Duty electric starter ($45), or
Self-Contained Starter ($80)
Electric fuel pump ($15)
Control Panel ($20)
Glowplug cable ($5)
Self-contained Glowplug igniter with Ammeter and charger ($30)
The final choice is where to buy this stuff from
Well, it is very tempting to buy from a catalog such as Tower Hobbies. There is so much good stuff in it and it is usually believed that this is the cheapest source. But I would encourage you to take a serious look at your local Hobby store. These stores will usually offer very competitive prices. The other benefits to supporting your local hobby store are that it is a source of those single items that you will always need in a hurry and it is a invaluable source of service and support. Without the support of the hobbyists, the hobby stores go away. Usually, the hobby store is a good source of advice and other forms of support. Buy local
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