HI everyone.. another trip blurb.

Although before I proceed into the body of the message. I must warn you, my typing may be a bit comproomised by the keyboard. Some of the punctuation is located in different areas, and occaisionally I hit a stray key and the text becomes Japanese. Initially I thought cool, I can impress you all in thinking I can write in Japanses in the three days we have been here. However, the fact that few of you can read Japanese, and I have no idea what it says either interferes with the purpose of reconnecting and updating you all. So..alas I will try to prevent the Japanese from slipping in.

We enjoyed our time on Kuai`i. We stayed with the mother of a friend of mine and took several day trips. We went on several hikes - one on the sleeping giant with a view of the south and west part of the island. Interesting to see the contrast between the developed coast, and lush feilds and red ridges of the inland. She was a great tour guide one day.. along the west and north coast.. we saw lighthouses, wildlife (mostly birsds), caves, and had an amazing lunch overlooking the ocean. The last day we hiked on the northern part of the Na Pali coast, which can only be reached by foot. The hike was through lush forest along cliffs. Your senses are regaled with all kinds of rich experiences. The smell of guava, damp is complimented by the sound of birds singing around you. All the while you have views of the ocean from the tops of cliffs.. the water varying in colors of turquoise, deep marine blue, and white(where it breaks on the rocks). We hiked to a beach. A river runs from the clifff and empties just behind the beach. We played in the salt water (it was too rough to really swim well), and then splahed around in pools created by the river where it met the beach. As we sat on a rock enjoying our lunch we were looking at the surf in front of us, the cliff on both sides, and tall lush/green cliffs behind us. Unfortunately the afternoon we saw a lot of people on the trail as we hiked out, and the sound of helicopters would penetrate the peace. Otherwise a stunning day!! The nights were usually filled with detailed discussions of politics, and life issues with our gracious host. This together with not being in a high touristy area left us feeling more like were homey and relaxed. We left early the next morninf rejuvinated for our travels in Japan.

As you may have guessed from my earlier warnings, we are now in Japan. I am getting used to the fact that we are one of the few blond people. However It appears that hair dying/bleaching is very popular here. Men and women here both have brownish highlights. I do start a bit when I see other Caucasian people, since "siteings" are few and far in between. This may be compounded by the fact that we are staying in Osaka right now, which is know more for its business prowess versus touristy sites. We`ve been here three nights. We wandered around the city one day. We`ve both been stuck by how clean it is, and how well organized the overall flow of life.

In many ways it has a bit of a European flavor. Houses, buildings are compact and well organized. Bright colors are more frequently used to accent interiors, and Trains are a main for of transport and bicycles as well. Like Europe, you see people cycling in everything from business suits, heels and short skirts. Judging from the prevelance of bicycles on the streets, and parked they are a part of everyday life. Travel and movement is on the left hand side.. took a few near collisians on the escalators, sidewalks, and in train stations for us to figure this out. Also, in many areas bicylists share the sidewalks with pedestrians. Navigation does not appear to be too much of a problem, nothing an occasional bell ring and breaking doesn`t resolve. I am struck by the lack of hostility compared to the U.S. No swearing or muttering if someone gets in your way, also in traffic I have not noticed a lot of honking. At train platforms, the place of door locations are indicated, and people form long lines to enter the train before arrival, patiently waiting. Hmm howmany of you have seen that in NYC, Boston or Nederland?

We have had some fantastic food expereinces. Everything from curry noodles, to soups, sushi and some Korean like Bimbab (sp?). One particular experience We went to a small hole in the wall place with low tables were we were the only non-business men. There were vending machines on the walls where you order your food, and then give the ticket to the `waitress` and sit down. The tea and cups are ont he table, as is a big covered bowl of rice and some sauses. We received our tray and can begin our meal. However, aparently they were observing us closely. When I mistook a soup base as soy sause and poured it over some of my rice. I was quickly given a tutorial (all in Japanses mind you) as to which other ingredients found on my tray and on the table should be combined to make a type of soup. Peter smiling the whole time. Luckily for us it is extremely common to have visual displays of food outside of restaurants, and on menus (okay for those within our price range). Makes the point and nod technique quite effective.

As I mentioned our Japansese skills are non-existent. As a result I find myself bobbing my head, smiling and repeating the same phrase for thank you (the only phrase I know) over and over again. Oddly they seem to do that with each other as well. Any time you enter a place or leave, or have an interaction of any kind with someone, this phrase seems to prevail. You hear it on the bus intercomes, at restaurants, at ticket counters, etc.

Yesterday we took a day trip to Kyoto, a very cute city. We bought a bus pass, and used that to hop on off to various locations. We went to a textile center (interesting for me). They had small demonstrations on the various techniques of painting cloth, weaving it for the various decorative and wearing purposes (e.g. on kimonos). They also had a kimono show. Then we went to one of the famous shrines and the accompanying forest/gardens). Beautiful!.. Quiet... and simple. great lines in the architecture. We then walked along a section called the philospher`s walk along a little river lined by trees and small houses, temples, and occaisional tea and curious shops. Very relaxing. We ended the day by having dinner in a big shopping social district.

I am struck by the more frequent use of Neon in the big shopping areas and business districts. Very different than Europe and many areas of the US. I guess think of the Neon used in strip malls, but eliminate the big parking lots, and shrink the business size. So you have long/tall neon signs on small streets, advertising 20 businesses on on one sign. In the big streets buidlings, large neon signs prevail.

Another thing we have noticed is that the JApanses seem to be equally fond of coffee shops and there are quite often (yes even including many Starbucks). The atmosphere is familiar, and often find brazilian, jazz or english music playing. We`ve appreciated these repreave in the world of new exciting expereinces.

We are headed to Tokyo today for three nights, and will be meeting up with a friend of Peter`s tonight for dinner.

We hope all of you are doing well. We love hearing back from you too!

Trish.

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