Pikes Peak
The mountain named after Zebulon Pike was visible along much of the Cherokee Trail – from the Arkansas River crossing all the way to the crossing of the South Platte. Nowhere, however, did the trail approach so close to the mountain as along upper Fountain Creek.
Pikes Peak as seen from the Cherokee Trail
Luke Tierney, 18 June 1858.
Luke Tierney belonged to the famed Russell Party, members of which were to be credited with the first major discovery of gold in the vicinity of present Denver.
“...we came to a creek called Fountaine qui Bouille. From
this point our course lay northward...About eleven o'clock we obtained a view of Pike's Peak. Although thirty miles distant, it seemed not more than five of six. This is one of the most remarkable peaks of the mountains. Rising to an altitude of twelve thousand feet, its stately sides covered with lofty pines and cedars, and its apex covered with perpetual snow, the spectacle it presents is magnificent in the extreme. Here, also, we met with the first brown bears. A pair of these animals sat on the opposite bank of the Fountaine, as we reached that stream. Snatching our rifles we jumped into the stream, which was sixty feet wide and four feet deep, but before we crossed the stream the animals escaped to the mountains. We camped at the creek for the night.
“The following day our route lay up the creek for about eight miles...About five P.M., to the northeast, we viewed four or five most remarkable piles, reminding the student of history of the ruins of the ancient edifices of Greece and Rome. They appeared to be composed of a species of sand, with here and there a green tree dotting their surfaces. To add to the interest of these mounds, there are no traces of sand or rock to be seen in the vicinity. They were surrounded on all sides by luxuriant vegetation.”
Source: "Luke Tierney Guidebook," Pike's Peak Gold Rush Guidebookd of 1859, ed. by LeRoy R. Hafen. (Glendale, Calif.: The Arthur H. Clark Co., 1941).
Tierney's "remarkable piles"
Julia Holmes, 4 July 1858.
Julia Holmes, with her husband and brother, had joined the Lawrence Party enroute to the mountains. Later, when the party made a month-long encampment at the foot of Pikes Peak, Julia became the first white woman ever to reach the summit.
“This day we obtained the first view of the summit of the Peak, now some seventy miles away. As all expected to find precious treasure near this wonderful Peak, it is not strange that our eyes were often strained by gazing on it. The summit appeared majestic in the distance, crowned with glistening white.
“We were passing over an uneven road to-day, and getting a mile or two in advance of wagons; we came upon a pair of antelope grazing. Immediately dropping upon the ground that we might not frighten them, we had a fine opportunity to examine their beautiful form and motion. They advanced towards us until they were scarcely ten rods off, with eyes riveted upon us, perhaps a minute, when sudden as lightning they started and bounded away as like the wind. Their smooth form, with slender, tapering legs, glossy hair, bright, large eyes, their graceful, lofty and intelligent motion, left a deep impress of their beauty.
“Proceeding up the Boiling-Spring River, we arrived on the 8th as near as wagons could approach the mountains.”
Source: A Bloomer Girl on Pike's Peak 1858, ed. by Agnes Wright Spring. (Denver: Denver Public Library, 1949).
Jason T. Younker, July 1858.
While camped at Cottonwood Grove on the lower Fountain, some Lawrence Party members got a good laugh out of their companions first futile attempt to climb Pikes Peak. Later efforts, however, met with greater success. Augustus Voorhees, Frank Cobb and J.D. Miller reached the summit on 10 July 1858. Three weeks later J.D.Miller repeated the climb to the top; with him went George Peck and the two Holmes, James and Julia. Jason T. Younker never did attempt the climb.
“Starting one morning from our camp on the Fountaine Qui Bouille, about twenty-five miles from the base of Pike's Peak, several of our boys went ahead on foot for the purpose of climbing to the top of the peak that day. They agreed to report in camp that night who were the winners of bets made between them when we were near Bent's Fort, about 150 miles distant from the mountains. Some had wagered that the white substance we could see on the summit of the peak was white rock, and other that it was snow.
“One by one the boys succeeded in getting back to camp at some hour of that night, but none of them had a report to make on the question of snow vs. white rock.”
Source: "The Early Pioneer," by Jason T. Younker. The Trail, Vol.II (January, 1910).
Dr. George M. Willing, 7-8 June 1859.
The good doctor was somewhat grumpy on his journey up Fountain Creek. Progress among his party of gold seekers had been slow, made even slower by the necessity of caring for a gravely-ill gold seeker named Thomas Alexander. The snow-covered peak itself seemed cold and repulsive in the 100 degree temperature of the plains.
“Tuesday, June 7. Leave camp at 6 A.M. Fair and calm. Thermometer 56 deg. The Fountain River, along which our road runs, is an inconsiderable stream, about twenty yards in width, cool, crooked and muddy. Land on either side sandy, banks heavily skirted with cottonwood. Saw a robin to-day. Pine and cedar make their appearance on the hill sides. Fall into the Fort Union and Laramie Trail which crosses Cherry creek at its mouth. Road good but hilly. My traveling equipment holds out well, as do also my cattle which actually are now in better flesh than when I started. Met a train of Mexican carts returning from Auraria, whither they had gone with flour. Report favorably on the mines. Pike's Peak in full view, and close at hand. Looks cold and repulsive with its headgear of snow. Doesn't make us feel any more comfortable, though, where we are, with the thermometer at 100 deg., and the air thick with dust.
We are now done with the plains, and traveling along the foot hills of the mountains, with wood and water in abundance, though grass is scarce. The earth is dry, parched in fact, and so porous that the scanty rains that fall at this season scarcely serve to lay the dust. It is a pleasant change though from the arid, cheerless, shadeless, everlasting and interminable plains. Camped to-day without any grass; wood and water abundant; four wagons went on without halting; we rest our cattle if we can't feed them; besides, the sickness of one of our party compels us to lay by.
Wednesday, June 8th. Leave camp at 6 A.M.; weather clear and pleasant, no wind; thermometer 51 degrees, air so pure that mountain peaks full fifty miles distant do not appear more than five; meeting constantly trading parties returning from the mines, all report favorably. In two hours came to grass on a beautiful little stream, (Jimmy Camp Creek), which I found well stocked with fish; ducks, also, were abundant. Beaver, in two places, had built dams across it, felling for the purpose large trees, some of which were as large as my body. What a wonderful little animal! I saw one asleep, and tried to get a shot at it, but the little fellow was too quick for me, and waked up and disappeared. Graze the cattle for an hour, then hitch up and away again. Road hilly and in places gravelly, which is hard on the hoofs of the animals."
Source: "Diary of a Journey to the Pike's Peak Gold Mines in 1859," by Dr. George M. Willing. Edited by Ralph P. Bieber, The Mississippi Valley Historical Review, Vol.XIV (June 1927-March 1938).
A.M. Gass, 9-11 June 1859.
Goldseeker A. M. Gass seems to have been a farmer at heart. He saw Pikes Peak as beautifiul, certainly, but more so for the fine farming prairie at its base than for the snow glistening on its summit.
“June 9th We are now following up a small stream known by the name of Fountain Chabougha, or boiling springs. It heads near Pike's Peak, of which we are now in full view - can see the snow up there, which, looks so nice and cool, while it is as hot as blazes wherewe are. We are daily hearing better and better news of the gold mines.
“June 10th. Still going up the Fountain Chabougha. Land good in the valley - grass scarce.
“June llth. Two months out from home today; and as I raise my eyes Pike's Peak appears about two miles from me; yet it is fifteen miles away. The gold diggings are some sixty or more miles further on. The Peak is a grand sight; is said to be twelve thousand feet high. One-third of the top is covered with snow. There is some, as fine farming prairie around the base of the Peak, as I have seen anywhere. Plenty of timber on the mountains and creeks.”
Source: "Diary of A.M.Gass," Overland Routes to the Gold Fields, 1859, ed. by LeRoy R. Hafen. (Glendale, Calif.: The Arthur H. Clark Co., 1942).
Sylvester Davis, 27-28 August 1859.
Busted gold seeker Sylvester Davis was on his way to the Spanish settlements in New Mexico. While passing down Fountain Creek he was able to forget for the moment his recent disappointments. The late August weather was beautiful, the breeze cool, the mountain air pure.
“Saturday August 27...camped on the fountain quiboulle at night. Thundered all night off In the Mountains beyond Pikes Peak but did not Rain on us In the valley.
“Sunday August 28. OH! tis a beautful morning, a fine breeze just cool enough to make a fellow feel good. comes down from the Snow Range & here we are without our coats on & bare footed & as hearty as bucks, thank god for our good health & the pure Mountain that we breath. After Dinner Yoked up our oxen & Drove on about 5 miles to get feed for our cattle. Striped our selves & took a wash in the water which comes Down from the mountains.”