On this model I attempted a 3 color camo scheme and it turned out much better than I expected. Here's the short of it: I enlarged the camo scheme from the instructions until they were the same scale as the model. I then airbrushed the base color of medium green and cut the masks from the camo enlargements.  To achieve the slight "fuzzy" edge between colors, I used "blue tack" to raise the paper mask about a millimeter. The results are very satisfying.

For this beast I applied washes and dry brushing throughout the interior and used SNJ for the aluminum finish. 

Click on the picture for more pictures and information.

So I started thinking that the Aurora looks best when it's in a steep bank 200' over the water so I'm planning on doing this gear up, flying over water.  I'm trying my hand at a number of new things; motorizing the props, including pilot figures, mounting on an acrylic rod and making a base covered with "water".

Should be fun!  Let's hope I have it done in time for next year's show!  :-)

So far all I've done is airbrush the major interior components.

Update (August 24): Well, the Eduard photo etch sets finally arrived but I have put this on hold while I finished the Apaches and now I'm considering building the CP-140 Aurora for our contest...

The whole messing affair

Close-up of the major supplies

A couple of points with the Model Master Acryls. 
1) Make sure your surface is completely free of release agents and oils!  The paints do NOT adhear well to anything but a clean surface.  I always wash the surfaces with Sunlight dish detergent (original stuff, not the "soft on hands" stuff) and let dry. 
2) When airbrushing, spray on light coats.  I've had a number of times when a heavy coat has cracked while drying.  I'm not 100% positive that it was just the heavy coat that was the only source of the problems, but I'm sure it was a major factor.

The secret to using Tenex 7R is to apply it sparingly to the joint.  I used to hold the joint apart a 1/4 mm while applying the cement but recently I've been applying it with the joint closed.  This seems to work a bit better, using less cement and creating a better bond. 

Here's another important point: once you have applied the cement, do not allow the joint to open.  Any time that I have allowed the joint to open, I've had tiny air bubbles in the joint.  These air bubbles are a major pain to fix since they are too small to be filled with putty.  What I did the last time this happened was to gouge out a small line along the joint using my scribing tool and then filling the line with putty.

For my canopies I usually sand them with 1000 grit or above sandpaper and then polish them with Novus Plastic Polish until the surface is reasonably smooth.  I then wash the canopy with Sunlight to remove any of the oils left behind by the polish and once dry I drip in future.  The results are simply amazing. 

For decaling I spray the painted and cleaned surface of the model with a couple of thin coats of future.  Once dry I decal as usual (an entire different topic!) and then seal the decals with either future (for gloss) or a flat coat.  For the flat coats I've been using the Model Master Acryl Clear Flat with excellent results.