The Lunatic Diaries

The ride to Bakkhali is a very diverse one. A lot, seemingly, happens on the way, even though there is not much happening. A three hour bus journey from Kolkata to Namkhana via Diamond Harbour, a ferry across the river Hatania Doania to reach the Namkhana bus stand, and, thereafter, another bus journey for one and half hour to Bakkhali. The drive, at times along the coast line and at times through paddy fields, has the distinct flavour of the much fabled rural Bengal.

Situated 130 km. from Calcutta and 80 km. south of Diamond Harbour, Bakkhali lies along the eastern shores of the Bay of Bengal. Less developed and less popular than Digha, the place, nevertheless, has its own charms, particularly for a weekend getaway.

Stepping out of the bus stand at Bakkhali is a mini event of sorts - the famous 16 headed date palm greets you into the village. A whiff of the sea air, perpetually heavy with the smell of drying fish, isn't the most memorable welcome. Looking for accomadation here could turn out to be a tedious afair. 'Hotel' owners claim that they only provide food and to catch a night' sleep one would need to find a 'restaurant'. But one look at the gushing sea and all disappointments, if any, are immedeately forgotten.

The beaches are pleasantly isolated and surprisingly clean. The casuarina-lined beach is made of clay and not sand, giving it a grey colour rather than the original brown, and it does not quite fit the cliched picture of a beach resort.The sea is calm and shallow for about a mile from the beach, making it quite safe for swimmers. The roots of the casurina plant strech from the beaches into the seawater, forming unique patterns on the silver sand, with red crabs squandering all over it at sight of human company.

Near the beach are the ruins of an old lighthouse, which make for a great site to explore. The locals vehemantly state that the beach and the light house are out of bounds after dark, even though there is no one to keep the adventurous souls away. Across the road from the bus stand is a little bridge, across which lies the enclosed areas of the Forest Department. These desolate mangrove forests make for adventurous afternoon walks complete with deer sightings.

A two kilometer walk on the beach at Bakkhali, with Red Fiddle Crabs for company, brings you to Fraserganj, a quaint little fishing village. Originally called Narayanitala, the place was renamed after Andrew Fraser, an English businessman, who fell in love with the sea and the sand and tried his hand at converting it into an ideal sea resort. But the seaside town that he built, along with a sanatorium, the shops, the roads, have all been washed away by the waves. Over time, Fraserganj has been rebuilt time and again and today it stands as an attractive fishing village and a natural habitat for migratory birds.

A 10 kilometer ferry ride by boat from Fraserganj, is the island of Jambudwip. The whole island, except for Mandirtala, is submerged in the sea for half a year and is visible only during the other six months. Jambudwip boasts of an interesting variety of aquatic life. Every year, a fishing colony is set up in Mandirtala from October to January. Spending a day with the fishing folk can be pretty interesting as well. More so if you can convincve them to take you along with them on a fishing expedition.

For some reason, Bakkhali is not as developed as it ought to be. The locals seem to be slightly disgruntled as well. 1995 saw the fishing harbour being built, providing some jobs to the locals. Electricity is a scarce commodity and there are no signs of a doctor or a medical store. It is evident that locals struggle to make ends meet, and their persistently following the tourists can, at times, be slightly annoying.

Away from the humdrum and graffiti laden walls of Kolkata, Bakkhali provides that ideal spot for soul searching after a week of intense activity. The looming windmills, the boats sailing into eternity at sundown, the fishermen coming in with what probably is their day's catch is a pretty soulful and refreshing experience

Location : 132 km. from Calcutta and 80 km. south of Diamond Harbour, Bakkhali falls in th South 24 Parganas region of West Bengal on the east bank of Hooghli.

Getting there : A bus from Esplanade or Saltlake to Namkhana via Diamond Harbour and Kaakdweep. A ferry across the river at Namkhana and another bus thereafter to Bakkhali.

Where to stay : The Tourist Lodge, by the tree-lined beach at Bakkhali, is the most popular place to stay. Tarrif for a standard room is Rs. 350 per night. For bookings, call 03210 - 44284. The Sea View Hotel on the Bakkhali - Fraserganj road is a comfortable place to stay as well. It is advisabe to carry a basic first aid kit and a torch.

BAKKHALI