The Lunatic Diaries

Ever wanted to be part of an Indiana Jones adventure - complete with a lost city, crumbling temples, weirdly structured rocks and ruins and screeching monkeys? Well, here is something you can try out. Hampi, the former capital of the fabulously rich Vijayanagar Empire, is probably the closest anyone could get (this side of Delphi) to the Indiana Jones experience. Although centuries of plunder have reduced the once thriving civilisation to a skeleton of crumbling granite, the place hasn’t lost its enigmatic aura.

The genesis of Hampi goes back to the age of the Ramayana. Believed to be the original Kishkinda, the monkey kingdom, where monkey king, Vali, was slain by Lord Rama and also the place where Rama first met Hanuman.

The site was raised to the status of a city in 14th century when the Vijayanagara Empire was growing to dizzy heights. It attracted international commerce and was known for it’s enormous wealth. Hampi owed much of this status to Krishnadeva Raya, acknowledged as one of the greatest kings of medieval India.

Portuguese ambassadors at Raya’s court described the capital city of Hampi as a land of many merchants with rubies and diamonds and emeralds and pearls and everything there is on earth that one may wish to buy. Although coconuts and cheap trinkets have replaced the pearls and the diamonds, the glory of the past is not wholly eclipsed.

The town layout is a fine example of town planning in medieval India, meticulous, practical and ornate in all aspects. An arrow-straight carriage-road cleaves the chaos of the Hampi bazaar and is dominated by temples at both sides. Buildings many centuries old are still used as shops for new-age wares. Huge beams hewn from monolithic granite, locked together without any mortar, have stood not only the test of time but also countless marauders. They now house general stores, cafes and cheap tourist eateries.

The ruins of the Vijayanagar empire are scattered within a 13 kilometre radius of Hampi Bazaar, but the delirious rock structures sprawl over 25 km around the city. To get around the place, one has the options of walking cycling or riding the auto rickshaw. There are thousands of interesting spots to visit; every hill, rock and corner bears the mark of ancient habitation.

Every step taken is an experience by itself. The grandeur of disintegrating temples, the dance of a broken nymph on a temple wall, the resistance of impassive fortifications, dilapidated demons, Gods, soldiers, elephants, snakes, each one enticing and exciting and bringing back images from the past. Each stride equals the adventure of an explorer on the verge of discovery.

The Vitthala temple, on the southern banks of the Tungabhadra, has a main pavilion of 56 pillars all of them with elaborate carvings. When struck each pillar emits a different musical note. In its main porch stands a magnificent stone chariot, so perfect in its proportions and detail that the stone wheels of the chariot still rotate at a slight push.

The Hazara Rama Temple, built within a rectangular complex, is located in the Royal Centre of the town. Built in the early 15th century, the temple is carved both on the exterior and the interior with depictions from ancient Hindu epics, dancers and troops. On the walls of the sanctum are two rare depictions of Vishnu as the Buddha.

The Mahanavami Dibba or the Royal seat is another striking structure in Hampi. This immense platform was used by the kings to view the Dussehra festivities. It commands an overwhelming view of the royal residences and other ruins. Nearby are the Lotus Mahal - a graceful two-storeyed palace and the elephant stables.

One could like in the days of yore, take a dip in the Queen’s bath (though the water is now dark with algae) followed by prayers to the Ganesha icon carved in granite. At dusk one may be at leisure to climb up the watch-tower and gaze at the crazy pattern of shadows made by moonlight on the rocks and ruins.

After a grilling cycle ride, a slow coracle down the Tungabhadra is a cooling experience. There is no bridge across the river and small coracles, reminiscent of large rounded baskets, made of cane and leather are the only means to get to the other side. These can carry fifteen or twenty people along with their motorcycles. On the banks of the river are temples, lots of them, making an interesting view as the boat slowly drifts along.

A visit to the Royal enclosure, Vitthala Temple, Sugreeva’s Cave, Sita Kund and Chakratirth, could lead to a trip to the museum, Anegondi, Vali Kila and Malyavanta Hill. Infact there are too many places to see and ‘Temple fatigue’ saps the energy of even the most zealous traveller.
The temples which have stood their ground for the last 500 years seem to be murmuring “it’s okay to take it easy”. So one can take a break, sit in the shade of a giant mango tree sipping ‘nimbu-paani’ and watching the river flow. An aura of mystery hangs over the shadowy confines of the structures. Under the steady gaze of hundreds of rocks, precariously balanced on top of other rocks, the ruins tell a few stories but conceal a thousand more.

Location
In western Karnataka off Bangalore - Goa road, Bangalore (325 km) is the closest city. Hospet (13 km) is the closest town.

Access:
Air: The nearest airport is Bellary (85 kms).
Rail: Hospet is connected by rail to Bangalore, Hyderabad, Thirupathi, Hubli, Margoa (Goa), Badami, Bijapur, Sholapur Vijayawada.
Road: Regular Karnatakka Tourism buses ply between Hampi and Bangalore.

Accommodation
Budget: Viki Guest House (Phone: 0839-441694) off Hampi Bazaar is a quaint but comfortable place to stay. Rahul Guest House (Phone: 0839-441648) overlooks the Tungabhadra.
Luxury: Kishkinda Heritage Resorts (Phone: 0853-367734) though far away from the main village, it is the only option for star comfort.

BAKKHALI