The Lunatic Diaries

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The journey on the Delhi - Manali highway ends abruptly at Bhuntar (40 kms before Manali) and branches into a never-ending bottleneck of a marijuana-lined road and along the left bank of the Parvati river. The roads are narrow and risky but surprisingly well maintained, a direct result of the construction of various dams and power projects, harnessing the Parvati River. Nestling at the confluence of the Parvati and Brahmganga rivers, lies Manikaran - a storybook town of temples, hot springs and dread-locked babas.

Manikaran - The name does not sound as familiar. The village has always taken a backseat to its richer cousin Manali, barely 70 kms from here. The importance which Manikaran holds in Indian folklore is by the legend that Lord Shiva and Parvati spent 1100 years in this place. The legend in the second chapter of "Brahma Puran" narrates the story about how Godess Parvati once lost her earrings in the rivers here. They were found by Sheshnag in the netherworld and he hid hit it in his nostrils. At Shiva’s command he sent it back to her with a hiss thus making the water around boil and giving the place its name Manikran - Jewel of the Ear.

The divine pair retired there for water sports known as 'Jal-Krida'. Fragrant and attractive flowers bloom all over the place. In the holy texts of the Hindus, the place is described as one of hot and cold waters and The Brahm-Puran also asks the pilgrims to spend a night awake at Manikaran and do a 'Raat-Jagran'. The tract is believed to be Lord Shiva's own. By a pilgrimage, complete with a bath here - the 'Sangam' - one is eternally blessed and does not need to visit Kashi or Rishikesh.

The opening up of the 35 km strech of road from Bhuntar to Manikaran, in the mid 80s has evidently brought about a ‘tourist revolution’ of sorts in the valley. With it came a certain amount of prosperity, fortunately without compromising with the way of life in the valley - tourism, horticulture and woollens remain the most common means of living. Two structures, the Ramchandra temple and the Shiva Temple dominate the Manikaran skyline, looking surreal due to the white of steam from the hot springs, just like wet, fresh paint on a canvas.

Hot springs can be found all over the valley till Kheerganga, in the pine forests across the river from Kasol, and beyond till Vashishth near Manali, but it is in Manikaran where the hottest water, 96 degree C, gushes out from below the rocks. A resourceful sadhu at the Ramachandra temple served me a glass full of spring water with a tea bag dipped in it. Lunch was sweet rice also cooked in the hot springs - muslin bag full of rice, dipped in the springs for 20 minutes, the waters are slightly sweet naturally. The hot water from these springs are also tapped, cooled and stored in reservoirs serving as public baths. A regular dip in these is apparently a cure for several diseases including paralysis and rheumatism. Before the earthquake of 1905, it is said, that this boiling water used to gush out to about ten-feet high.

The Ramchandra temple is the biggest, complete with hot springs bubbling out at the porch. It was the first of sorts in the valley, installed by King Jagatsukh in an attempt to convert his kingdom from Shaivism to Vaishnavism cult. It is claimed that the idol of Lord Rama was brought from Ayodhya. There was also an idol of Lakshman which has now disappeared. The temple is very old and on one of its wall, the history of the temple is carved out but is not legible.

The older structures of Manikaran have been slightly buried due to a massive earthquake that hit the valley in 1905. The ancient temple of Lord Shiva also got tilted during the earthquake. The Devatas of Kulu valley pay regular visits to this temple. The followers of the individual deities of different villages are brought ceremoniously in a procession, to Manikaran, on specified auspicious days. The visiting deities are given a ceremonial bath at the Hot Springs and then taken back to their specific villages.

The place is also held sacred by the Sikhs, the legendary Sri Guru Nanak Dev Ji Gurudwara lies right next to the Shiva Temple. In this Gurudwara, there are symbols depicting at least five different religions painted on the walls. The holy text of "Janam Sakhi - Twarikh Guru Khalsa" by Giani Gian Singh mentions the visit of Guru Nanak Dev to the village. The Guru reached Jwalamukhi temple, accompanied by his disciple Bhai Mardana, after preaching at Kalanaur, Gurdaspur, Dasuya, Triloknath, Palampur, Kangra, Mandi, Chamba and Kulu - where he came accross the Bijli Mahadev Temple. Then he proceeded to Manikaran where he performed several miracles. Out of all sectors - "Piths" - of the country, the 'Kulant Pith', is the superior most. The most sacred place of pilgrimage is Manikaran, and in it the 'Vishnu Kund' has the purest waters of all.

The temples and the legends apart, Manikaran is an interesting place to be in anyways. The cafes around the place ooze color and life, dream catchers hanging from the ceiling, mattresses laid out in a balcony overlooking the river flowing in the vast expanse of the valley. They are straight out of Rip Van Winkle’s wildest fantasy - I spent hours in there taking in the stories and myth, playing games of chess for hours with absolute strangers.

One such long game of chess with an Italian couple who have been ‘on the road’ in India for 6 years also earned me a practical lesson on trout fishing. There are quite a few trouts in the Parvati and a few tourists on a long haul also run an angler’s club in the village. Had trout fishing not required that much of patience and silence and the luck I had on the first day continued, I might have considered it for a career option.

Looking back, Manikaran did seem a little surreal during the first few hours there, but the village literally grows on you by the minute. It can only be the magic of the mountains and the morning sun that works equally on the place and the people to give them such a sunny disposition

For a couple of days it was just soaking up the magical ambience and indulging in relaxation, contemplation, and pondering. The little trails around the village, water splashing on the rocks below the myst-rose, the intense greenery – a deep green of the trees and the florescent light green patches of marijuana plant - was a treat for the senses.

One more time, standing on top of the ridge, at 1737 mtrs on the right bank of river Parvati, for one last look, one last fresh breath, I felt completely empty as shivers ran through my body. By sheer greatness, this little village nestled in the Himalayas became miniscule, overpowered by the magic and warm energy oozing out of itself filling up the place and the people, waiting to be absorbed.

M a n i k a r a n