Above you can see how there is no radius between the hull sides and bottom. I should have added a radius of about 20mm prior to fiberglassing. In retrospect I really dislike stitch and glue, and much prefer stringer frame (using a strongback). In my opinion stringer frame is easier to get right for amateur builders

The dory was built with 4mm thick ply for the sides and 6mm for the bottom. This was thinner than specified and a mistake. The boat was wobbly and lacked rigidity. Thus I was forced to add a gunnel and inwale, frames at every 50cm and gussets. It would have been much easier to build the frames first and add plywood later. In addition I should have used more screws in the process of adding frames as the epoxy failed under huge loads 2 years on.

This may have been because the epoxy had fully cured before glueing the frames on, rather than adding the frames the day after the ply was epoxied. I did sand back the epxoy to get a good key, but an extra one hundred screws at 3 cents each would have been prudent. More recently I have added a small keel and keelson.

About 3 photos down can be seen the skeg which worked well for quite some time, before being replaced by a rudder. With the skeg and with a good 70kg of water ballast I was then able to control the dory in strong winds, as opposed to being at all ends previously

Also note that the trolley 2, the one with large wheels, was lowered by about 5 inches to aid in stability. It worked very well for almost 2 years, but I could not store the boat upside down, and it was overly complicated, taking too long to make and too long to paint. I found that cheap painted radiata pine used for the trolley lasts quite a few years even if kept outside