Cooper's Rock

Cooper's Rock, West Virginia...





My recent experiences at Cooper's Rock has imspired me to start this online guide. My first knowledge of the routes on here derive from a Mt. Dreams climbing class that I took, and also from Tim Anderson's Page which has a nice description of this place. However, I have found a few main areas unpublished, so I though that I should publish these and hopefully receice more info upon this via email. The first section of this, and the first on my agenda is the Road Side area, i believe that it is called. This area has a lot of nice bouldering and some good top-ropes too. There are several Trad routes too, which are quite fun and enjoyable. This can be access by parking at the left end of the overlook parking area and following the trail. You will pass several boulders. On your left, you will see a big "island" block, procede between this block and the on adjacent to it, or walk around it and meet route #1.

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There is a nice guide from Climb Pa here

There is also a good guide here at the rock and ice guide Here


The * indicates climbs, or possible climbs which I would like to try.

  • 1. This trad climb follows the obvious crack up the left-center of the face. This line if very well protected. It runs at about a 5.4.

  • 2. This slab climb follows the arete up the block, this anchor can be access by climbing route #1. This is an iland block. Route #1 is its easiest access point

  • 3. This face may need cleaned a little. Though I have not tried this face, I'm going to try it next time I make the trip to Cooper's. I don't know if this route has been done

  • 4. This open-book features a crack about 3" wide all the way up. The crux of this climb is the actual start, once above a few feet, the climb is more moderate. This seams to be about a 5.6 or 5.7

  • 5. This face climb also features a hard, cruxy beginning, and moderates as the climb goes. Climb the obvious weakness in the center of the face. This feals to be a 5.9+,5.10-

  • 6. This easy slab can be very enjoyable. Start below the medium and friction your way to the top. Climbing shoes are very helpful on this one. 5.4

  • 7. Mr. CleanClassic!!! follow the great crack up the face to the large tree. This is a very good trad route. Though I have heard that this is a 5.7 crack climb, I personally would rate this climb a 5.9. This route gets tough on the last third where an off-width crack is encounterd.

  • 8. This face will be the next Cooper's project of mine. I have no previous information on this route, however, thats what makes it fun. It looks a little bit cruxy in the middle of the face, where it is quite smooth.

  • 9. This short, overhanging, 10' corner looks to be a good boulder problem. Perhaps my next visit will yield more imformation on this route.


    Roof Top Area

    This area was introduced to me as well, by the Mt. Dreams Climbing class. This area, though it has a small selection of climbs, the several good climbs are of manificient quality. There are also a large amount of low-grade, pro technique climbs indicated on the map by routes #6. Your on your own to find this area. However, I'll give you the hint....Look for the warn path on a small dirty nole. "on the left". Don't get locked in the furnace grettle...




  • 1. This climb is a good top rope. This was one of my Donna's favorite climbs at this area. I believe that she onsighted it. This route goes 5.7 if my memory serves me correctly.

  • 2. This route was the high point of my day during my Mt. Dreams climbing course. This 5.10c climb is just to the right of #1. It follow up the face, avoiding the ledge on the left threw an awkard side pull move to the the top. 35'

  • 3. This next route is a very quality climb. The crux of this cimb is located about 10' of the ground. I won't reveal the beta on this climb, I'll let you have as much fun as I did pulling threw this one. This climb ends below the large roof, 5' right of the cold shuts from route #5. 5.10d 45'

  • 4. Around the small arete of route #3 is a very overhung, pocket face that leads to the top half of route #3. I have no other information on this route, though it looks to be quite above my skill level.

  • 5. This trad climb begins at the start of #2 and follows the horizontal crack to the cold shuts. I suggest tri-cams and a size #3 camalot for this route. 5.7-5.8.

  • 5a. Oh the glory, this is more of a direct route than a variation to #5. This climb is top roped from the cold shuts on route #5. These can be accessed via rappel. Follow the line of white, chaulk monos and micro pockets to the top. Rumored at 5.12a or so. 40'

  • 6. Along the rest of this wall is a good area for technique. There are thousands of variations to this dirty, pocketed face. 5.2+..However, the first move on most of these can be a trouble, due to the roof that is about 2' tall that lines the wall. A cheater block can be helpful. Also there are some trad routes along the wall as well. 40-60'



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