Temptation-fear

Temptation

This 5.11a was my first true attempt at a 5.11. Just left the arete and to the right of mission impossible is a small roof preceded by a slabish climb "partialy obstructed by the fine elm", mission impossible style. The moves on this climb are hairy, but can be easily wired by hangdogging. This means, the climber climbs to a place, and has the belayer lock him or her off. Next the climber finds the correct sequence of moves, completes these moves under rope tension and then moves on to the next set of holds. I found these moves quite easy using the method. This works quite well.

Fear the fear, climb the climb, the buckets for the arete are off limits. However, the holds are present to a keen eye. The footholds are hard to see, due to the climber's views downward. However with amply tries, this climb can be completed with minimal arm stress.




Back