Read this first.

Training is a great way to improve you climbing skills. When not on the rock, simple exercise can keep you in tune with your ability and skill advance can help you to reach new heights. One of the first problems you will find, is what is holding you back? I have a weakness check-list for you to decide what your problem is, this will help you to choose the type of trainings you need to do better. Training does help, but if you train too hard, you may hurt yourself, which is sucky, cause you get weaker and can not climb. There are many things you can use to learn: Forearm donuts are cool, also power putty. These both work on you finger and palm strength. For upper arm strength, pull ups and hanging from a bar or does wonders. Also, sit-ups will knock off that extra weight you're carring to the top. Running also helps to tone your body. Skill advance can be a little more tricky and thoughtful. I personally build myself a home wall, two pieces of ply wood high and half a sheet wide. At first I had it at a 70 degree angle, however, I straightened it out some to work on skill instead of strength. I also have work long and hard on an I-Beam holding up my house. Until my recent purchase of a pull up bar, the beam did me well, i still use this for various finger exercises as discussed later in my page. The itself is used to improve my upper body strength. I use a hockey sock a towel works fine to do pull ups with my hands unevenly and I also do pull ups from different widths across the bar. In this section, when complete, I hope to help you understand the wacko things that work and do not work, through my own experiences.



Another great training tool is the use of a home climbing wall. As you can see, I have two walls, one vert and one overhang. I am currently conentrating on my vert wall. These were quite easy to make and a good number of the foot holds are made from bondo. Bondo works well, however, I have devised my own bondo hold creation that works well. Here is a step by step instuction and tips list

  • Create a mold with play-doo or something like that.
  • Create a cast with plaster.
  • Cover the inside of the mold with vasaline, or oil, and spred it across the entire surface.
  • Mix up the bondo, adding lots of sand.
  • Dump a heap of sand on the cast and turn it upside down, you need the sand for texture.
  • Pour bondo, let dry.

    I have tried to use bondo hand holds, but they dont work too well, there best used as screw-in foot holds. 3/8 bolts are a real pain in the ass, because they often break the hold, also, make sure to use at least two screws to keep the hold in place. Also make the hold thick, so that it won't break on you.

    This is a finger board that i made for one of my friends for Christmas. As you can see, it has a sandy texture, also there is a small foot hold I made with the excess bondo.


    These are my home walls. They are quite frugal. I was given the ply wood. The most expensive part about these was the holds on them. As you can see, they are anchored by chain to trees. These are great for strength and technique. I created the original route on the over hand as a replica of Mr. Smoothie at McConnel's Mill. I then filled in the rest of the holds and put in a few bolts to practice my clips. Also, when I climb 'in the warmer weather of course' I use three couch pads, that will soon be replaced with my crash pad :).