15 June
Last tuesday Adelaide boulder punk Sharik Walker thrashed his way up another bachelor pad project. "Tao" was an overlooked line starting up Cocktoe v9/10 and kicking out left via some wild slaps. Check out the video clip shot over a couple of days. 6 days of attempts makes the problem hard in sharik's mind – way harder than cave woman v12 in the grampians that went in 2 shots but no way near as hard as Madball that took Sharik a couple of weeks of attempts .. probably v12 then.
-Madball retrospective- adelaide 99 autumn sessions sees klem loskot and antonator lamprecht visit the bachelor pad. Anton does it from the stand v8 and after 2 days work klem produces the sitstart. Eu summer 2001 and klem now thinks that madball was probably the hardest piece of climbing he did in australia. His reasoning – the hard problems in the grampians really only have one tough move unlike madball which has a number. What then of the grade? In the book the eleventh grade klem publishes the grade as 8b bloc.
4th June
In the Flinders a newish bouldering area about 4 hours drive north of Adelaide, South Australia. About 100 problems have been established in the last 2 years. This area has loads of potential for problems of all grades and styles. Here are some of pics. Subatomic V5, Blending V8, Blending, Blending, Killer Bee V5, Oblique V6.
Sharik Walker has been attempting this fantastic problem at the Bachelor Pad for a few days now check out how he is going - TAO
As reported at 8a.nu one of a number of visiting Austrian's Bernhard Fiedler had a productive visit to the Grampians this autumn. Bernhard managed the 2nd ascent of Kings Cross 8a+/v12, Killer Dwarf v12, the first ascent of Cave Bitch v12 and When We Were Kings v11. Cavebitch is the very logical new starting point of the recently added Cave Woman in the Hollow Mountain Cave.
As reported at The Deadpoint.com Chris Sharma has sent Black Lung V13 at Joes Valley, Utah. Which is timely considering that Dave Graham in the latest edition of Climbing magazine said "I'm really impressed by Chris. Just the way that he does things, the way he climbs. I'm not so impressed with the things that he's actually accomplished, because he hasn't actually done that many super-hard things. But I'm really motivated when I see him climb, because I want to be that strong. If I had his raw power, I feel like I could be so much better of a climber." Thanks to Climbing Magazine for the quote.
Adding to the rumour of 18 April was that Thomas also did another Hollow Mountain Cave variant called Rim Rave 8b+/v14 I assume it goes up as for Cave Rave and Eve Reve and then ... Also confirming another rumour 8a.nu has reported that Thomas spent some time on Kangaroo Island south of Adelaide. Not content to check out the seals and koalas he instead went bouldering and opened some problems including an 8b. If anyone has any more info on the Kangaroo island bouldering then drop us a line.
On a 2 day trip to the Gramps Sharik Walker repeated Sam Edwards Cave Woman V12 in 2 shots. Stay tuned for a short video of Sharik bouldering at his local area the Bachelor Pad.
The 2 best performed OZ boulderer's in 2001, Sam Edwards and James Scarborough have spent the last 3 weeks on a bouldering tour in the Grampians. Sam sent Krusti v9/10, Cave Man v9/10, Ogre Thumb v9, Extended World v10, Butthole Surfer v10, Killer Dwarf v12, Dead Cant Dance v12 and opened Cave Woman v12 in the Hollow Mountain Cave. James pulled off the 4th ascent of Ammagamma v13, Killer Dwarf v12, Viva Resistance v11(2nd ascent), Butthole Surfer V10, Extended World v10, Ogre Thumb V9/10 and Xtreme Cool v9.Thanks to australianbouldering.com
Iker Pou best known for his repeat of Action Direct 9a is on a bouldering trip to the Alps. First stop was Chironico where in 4 days he sent an 8b+ an 8b (possibly La Soucoupe 8b/8b+ and Bock's Right hand variant 8a+/b???), Raindogs 8a, Le Pillier Direct 8a/8a+ and flashed Les Doigt verts 8a. Check outDESNIVELfor the photos of Iker on the 8b+ and 8b.
Rosta Stefanek (Czech) was in Chironico in April where he managed an 8b+ and 2 8b's an 8a+ all unnamed. I am not sure if they are the same problems that Iker did.Thanks to 8a.nu for the info.
Bernd Zangerl a 22 year old student from Flirsch in Austria has fired the 2nd ascent of Fred Nicole's hardest boulder problem (bloc) in the world - DREAMTIME 8c! Bernd sent the fantastic looking problem on the 15th of April. He had previously climbed Dreamtime from the standing start at 8b late in 2000. 3 days later he bouldered the first ascent of VOIGAS 8b. His previous hardest problems were the first ascents of KI and Die Unendliche Gesichte both 8b/b+ in Switzerland.
In Font Christian Roumegoux has added Fatman sd 8b? and Mad Maxx 8b (he reckons 8a+) to his already impressive Font resume. The Austrian Bernd Zangerl has continued to send hard new problems this time its Die unendliche Gesichte 8b/b+ in Switzerland.
In OZ boulderers have once again invaded Mt Stapylton. Sam Edwards has collected Krusti, Cave Man, Extended World, Ogre Thumb all v10 plus Killer Dwarf v12 and Dead Cant Dance V12. His bouldering partner James Scarborough has bouldered Xtreme Cool V9, Extended World V10, Ogre Thumb V10 and Killer Dwarf V12. Another Tasmanian Kim Robinson has scored a repeat of Mad Max V12 at the Citadel. With all three now trading shots on Ammagamma and with loads of people trying other hard stuff no doubt their will be lots of news soon. Thanks to australianbouldering.com
Rumour has it that Thomas Willenberg spent some time in the Gramps recently and as he is want to do dispatched everything in the area including the 2 big ones Eve Reve v14 and Ammagamma V13.
Dave Graham has moved to Switzerland and @ Cresciano sent La Boule 8a+ very quickly, Franks WIld Years 8a+ (was 8b) in an hour, Super Platte 8a and Grotte des Soupirs 7c+ - no news on Dreamtime! At Chironico he did Willenbergs new problem Casa Pecora 8b+ which Dave thought only warranted 7c/c+ he also did another 8b in 5 tries, Freak Brothers 8a+, Serre moi Fort 8a/8a+ and 3 other 8a's.
The very underground Markus Bock it seems has done the 2nd ascent of Werner Thons "Zerberus" 8b (or 8b+), another problem called Tonfa 8b and repeated Hurdenlaufer 8a+.
Thanks to 8a.nu for the info.
1 April
Check out the Spainish Climbing Magazine DESNIVEL for a fantastic interview with Swiss boulderer Frederic Nicole. Fred has had a good year already with ascents of the 4 hardest problems in Bishop ( Mandala v12, Buttermilker v13?, Goldfish Trombone V13 and Specter v14?) and in Hueco he added another v14 to his favourite area - "Esperanza", he als opened "Le retour du Goupil 8a+/b, and repeated Rumble in the Jungle v12. Along with the article are some fantastic pictures taken by Fred's partner Mary. They include some photos of some of the problems Fred opened in Rocklands last year (Oliphants Dawn 8b/b+, Nutsa 8b and Eau bord de l'eu 8a). Also check out the pics of Ikarus 8a and Nanjanuka 8a+/b at Armidale in NSW.
31 March
There has been a bit of action on the east coast of Australia throughout the month of March. Sam Edwards has continued to boulder well with a quick ascent of Contact v12 at the Villas, he also flashed Savage v9 and did Rocket Man v10 at the Balkans and Chaos and Disorder v10 at Crumbly. James Scarborough also made a quick ascent of Conatct and Savage and also Jug Thug v10 at Nowra. Matt Adams (who didnt do Fatman - joke gone wrong!) has however put up a direct to Le Loup Magnifique 8a in Sweden and says its hard 8a - its called Desire for dead meat. Matt also did Haute Tension 7c+ on a recent trip to Font.thanks to australianbouldering.com
Below is an excerpt from 8a.nu about Daves theorising on bouldering grades. "If Fatman and Gourmandise are 8a+, Mad Maxx is 8b, Sideways Daze is harder 8b, and Spectre (Bishop) is 8b+, Nothing but sunshine (RMNP) and the fly(as a boulder problem) are hard for 8b+ and Centaur and Automater (both RMNP) are closer to 8b(way closer than fatman and gourmandise) Black Lung (Joe's valley) and Buttermilker (Bishop) could both be 8b as well considering they are way harder then the 8a+ problems in font; ie fatman and gourmandise, partinaire, and partage-hard then the other three."
There has been a fair bit of commentary on bouldering grades in recent times especially at Font. The German Harald Roker who did a super quick ascent of Fatman last month thought it warranted 8a/8a+ and said that even the sitstart did not make it any harder just more painfull.
The bleausard Seb Frigault who is one of the forests best boulderer's says that Gourmandise was originally done by Vincent Cantrelle totally from the back of the roof and not from the big underclings as its repetitors think. If done so he believes the grade should be 8b/8b+ bloc.
Which is strange because Vincent graded the thing 8a+ when he did it but eventually it went up to 8b in line with its neighbour Fatman.
Seb has recently opened C'etait Demain assis 8a+ and repeated Morphine and Le Mandarin both 8a. Francis Helias has done Hybernatus assis 8a+, Jb Jourjon has done Atresie and T rex both 8a, Oliver Lebreton did Atresie 8a and Julian Nadiras opened Atresie direct 8a and with a sitstart 8a+.
At Loruns, Vorarlberg Bernd Zangerl has added KI 8b/8b+.
At Font Uli Lindental and Harald Roker sent Surplomb de la Mee 8a+ and Harald also did Fatman 8b - 2nd shot!!! and Mongolito and Cetait Demain both 8a.
28 Feb
Some HUGE news thanks to australianbouldering.com Fred Nicole has returned to one of his favourite bouldering spots and established ESPERANZA V14 at Hueco Tanks in the US. Fred also repeated Sharma's Rumble in the Jungle V12 and added "Une Pointe de bleau dans un Hueco" V11.
From Texas to Utah where Klem loskot is ripping it up. In a day at Little Cottonwood he flashed Bully V11/12, Copperhead v10, Shingles V10, Mr Mom v10 and in 3 shots sent Garth Millers "Chong" V12 and another V10 All Thumbs. A day earlier in Ibex he flashed The Atomic Bomb V10 and did Red Monster direct exit V10 in a couple of goes. On a cold day at Joes Valley Klem flashed "Resident Evil" v11, Freak V10 and did Phoney Baloney V10 in a couple of goes. Klem also added some hard new problems at Ibex including "THE FUTURE IS FOR THE ANIMALS" and acouple of hardies at Moab including PHANTOM FIGHTER and GOOD TIMES, BAD TIMES.
Thanks to SMACKMAGfor the news.
In Font the locals are still cranking with another new 8b+/V14 this time to Oliver Lebreton - a sitstart to Hip Hop. Julian Nadiras has repeated the original version at 8a+ and another local Christian Roumegoux has done Partenaire Particulair 8a+.
16 Feb
Seb Frigault has opened a new 8b+/v14 in Fontainbleau. The problem is called DUNE and is Seb's 3rd 8b+ in the forest. (note L'insoutenable... is now 8a+ but due to changes in the hold size).
Daniel Andrada has been on a tour of Fred Rhouling's playground at Les Eaux Claires in France. It has been said that he did 12 8a or harder blocs in 5 days - well this is just some of what he did thanks to DESNIVELfor the update. "Anagramme" 8a(flash), "Doun Doun" 7c+/8a(flash-says 7c+), "Safran" 8b(5 shots-says 8a+), "Minotaure" 8a+(2 shots-says 8a), "Tribulation Carnivore" 8a+ traverse(3 shots), "La Force de l'ordre" 8a(2 shots), "Le Troisieme Monde" 8a(6 shots), "Musha" 8a(6 shots). Dani also had time to solo a variant of Freds route "Archipel" 8b - he flashed it and thought 8a+(the actual route is 8c+ and was repeated and confirmed by Dai Koyamada and Yuji Hirayama last year).
Back in Spain Andrada hit Siurana and sent "Tanzabar" 8a, and then to Cubells where he added 2 8a+ "Essence" and an unnamed problem.
Elsewhere in Spain Iker Pou did "El techo de los pilutos" 8a and Hector Del Campo did "La Bellena" 8a+.
Aussie tourist Matt Adams has bouldered the 3rd ascent of Le Loup Magnifique 8a/v11 in Stockholm, Sweden.
6 Feb
CLIMBING.DE has more news on Thomas Willenberg. Prior to his trip to Tessin he spent September in Kochel and Voralpenland where he made the 2nd ascents of Toni Lamprecht's "Lindentaler" 8b/v13, "The Squeeze" 8b( this problem has at least 5 versions apparently ranging from 7c/+ to 8b, note Christian Benk has also made an ascent and said it was not 8b), and "Hosentaschenbillard" 8b.
Thomas was in Font in October where he opened "Ariane" 8b and "Le Grand arete du fond" 8b and did Fatman 8b - again!
In brief JB Jourjon has done Gourmandise 8b at Font and LuKe Parady made the 3rd ascent of Chunk O Blitz V12 at Pawtuckaway in the US.
Climbing Magazine is reporting on a rumour that Fred Nicole has sent the 2nd ascent of Dave Graham's "The Specter" v13 in Bishop. Also in Bishop Luke Parady from New England and Ian Vickers from the UK have done the 5th and 6th ascents of "The Mandala" V12. Dave Graham is still cruisin - he's now done "The Buttermilker" v12 and Plain High Drifter v11 and flashed "Stained Glass" V10 and Blood Spud v10. Dave also sent "Resident Evil" V11 at Joes Valley in Utah.
The big boulder comps are now in the US with big money and big names. Salt Lake City, Utah has just held 2 of the biggest. January 27 was the Rockreation Boulder Blast - 1st place to local Steven Jeffery, 2nd to aussie Sam Edwards and 3rd to Obe Carrion. On Jan 29 was the Wasatch Front Open with the field comprising such names as Klem Loskot, Tommy Caldwell, Dave Graham, Steven Jeffery, Sam Edwards and Luke Parady it was obviously BIG. 1st Place again to Steven Jeffery, 2nd to John Cronin and 3rd to John Stack.
In Font Jb Jourjon has continued his super year with an ascent of Fatman 8b.
Klem Loskot had a quiet year in 2000 but thats set to change in 2001. The 26 year old from Salzburg in Austria spent most of the year working on "The XI Grade" book with friend Udo Neumann. Klem like Chris Sharma has decided not to grade his new boulder problems - his reasons are many so check out neuadventure for the beta on Klems mindset.
Late in the year Klem opened what he says is one of the hardest dyno's he's done "Golden Fly" at Fichtelsebirge (he's jumped 8a+ before (ed)). In a new cave near Salzburg he opened "Die Gotler Sind die Sieger" - one of the hardest problems of the year for Klem.
On the road with his friends in Chironico he did Raindogs 8a 2nd shot, Les Doights Verts 8a/8a+ flash, Le Pilier 8a flash. Next stop was Targasonne where he and Martin Hanselymaer sent the span dependent "Psoass Mole" 8b bloc. Klem also added a 2 move 8a start to the 8a traverse Queen of Hearts and added a 7c+ dyno finish to Uniformicide 8a bloc.
In Spain 1st stop was El Escorial where he repeated Kike y el espacio tiempo 7c+/8a 2nd shot, Mega Puerta 8a 2nd shot, Katapult 8a, La Ballena 8a+ and opened El Monstruode de las Ragletas 8b (graded by locals?). In La Pedriza he opened a heap of new problems including Show me the way to your Heart 8a. In Siurana he repeated Enterredor 8a in 2 shots and added some hard stuff including "I get my kicks on Planet Six" which Klem reckons had the hardest move he did in Spain.
Thanks to Rock and Ice for the news.
Firstly Dave Graham has got his 2nd 8b/v13 of the year with a quick ascent of BLACK LUNG v13/8b at Joes Valley in Utah.
Thanks to classicrock for this sensational news:
German boulderer Thomas Willenberg has done it again - this time on tour in Switzerland with Ines Westenhofer. In December 2000 Thomas scored well on both the opening and repeating front in the Tessin area. Allowing for mistakes (german translating skill not good) it seems Thomas opened "Casa Pecora" 8b+, "Capocira" 8b, "Caldo Fumo" 8b, Secondo Vomo 8a+, Terzo Cane 8a+ and Prima la Signora 8a. At Chironico it is reported he repeated an 8b+ of Fred Nicole's (perhaps La Soucoupe 8b/8b+ repeated earlier by Markus Bock) and an 8b of Bocks (perhaps the right hand variant of the above problem opened by Bock @ 8a+/8b) and Serre moi fort 8a+.
At Cresciano he flashed Grotte de Soupirs 7c+ and the very big news is that he sent DREAMTIME on his 2nd day from the standing start @ 8b/8b+.
Ines Westenhofer also sent Prima la Signora 8a her 2nd 8a of the year (her first was "Wombat".)
Fred Nicole is still going strong in Bishop, now with the 2nd ascent of Sam Edwards's "Goldfish Trombone" v13 to his name. It took Fred 4 days to send. Fred confirmed the problems grade. Thanks to australianbouldering.com for the info.
John Gaskins he of Hubble fame is now becoming known for his bouldering prowess. His recent ascents include the 1st ascent of Isla de Encanta 8b, the first ascent of an 8b+ traverse Anesthesia and the 2nd ascent of Moon's Eight Ball 8b.
Mad Maxx in Font has been dropped to 8b by JB Jourjon who made a quick repeat of this linkup problem.
Loic Ledenmat added a hardcore slab problem to the forest called Lacrima and graded 8b.
Stefan Pettersson of Sweden has had a very successful tour of the Grampians. By the end of the year he had sent Killer Dwarf v12(3rd ascent), Cave Man v10, Krusti v10, flashed Puns and Noodles v9, Da Lai Lahmung v9/10 (2nd shot), The Haribo Boulder v9(2nd shot), Xtreme Cool v9, Zen do Kai v9, Rave Heart v8(flash), Ground Control to Major Tom v8 traverse(flash) - thanks to 8a.nu for the info.
Bouldering in 2001 is going to be huge and young Dave Graham (19) will no doubt be one of the big players. After his fantastic year in 2000 he has started off the new year by sending on January 7 a problem called "SPECTER" @ Bishop in California. Rock and Ice Magazine report that Dave believes the problem would be at least 8b in Fontainbleau and has tentatively graded the Specter v13/14. The problem in a remote location in Bishop was known as the Pollen Grains project and had been tried by many strong boulderers including most recently by Fred Nicole. Dave sent the problem on his 3rd day.
Although he hasnt yet got the Specter Fred did grab the 3rd ascent of Chris Sharma's "The Buttermilker" which it seems is now graded v12/13. There are now 4 bloc problems v12 or harder in the area (Specter-13/14, Goldfish Trombone-13, Buttermilker-12/13 and The Mandala-12).
In Fontainbleau the young bleausard Julian Nadiras (20) has combined la totalie de l'Autre toit 8a with The Maxx 8a to get MAD MAXX 8b+ bloc. Julian is no stranger to bouldering @ that level with an ascent of Fatman 8b in Font and the 2nd ascent of Leopard Cave 8b @ Rocklands in South Africa.
Ozzie lad Sam Edwards has sent his 2nd v13 in the US (the first ascent of Goldfish Trombone @ Bishop being the first). The prize was the classic Fred Nicole traverse "Crown of Aragorn" @ Hueco Tanks. With The Dominator and Black Lung on his hitlist expect more action!
At the Bachelor Pad in Adelaide "Non Intentional Lifeform" has been reinstated at V10 after it was discovered that Luke Geelen had actually opened a new problem on holds just to the right. The new problem is "Living or Existing" and is V8. Sharik Walker sent the problem 2nd shot and confirmed the grade.
In the US the famous "Mandala" has had its 4th ascent by Fred Nicole who thinks it is 8a+/v12.
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