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Located
at the northen end of the Oregon Cascades, Mt. Hood is the crown jewel
of the Oregon alpine summits rising to 11,240 feet. Eleven glaciers
carve their path down the steep slopes. One hour away, metropolitan
Portland's skyline is dominated by Mt. Hood's presence.
The
main route to Hood's summit starts at historic Timberline Lodge located
at 6000 feet elevation. Climb along the ski area 900' to Silcox Hut.
From there you are at the foot of the flat Palmer Glacier. Continue
up following the ski lift to the top. The angle steepens and conditions
frequently warrant the use of crampons above 8,500 feet. Climb toward
the right hand base of Crater Rock, where you will find Devils Kitchen,
a steaming body of fumeroles which often protrudes from the snow as
a volcanic dome.
The
angle now grows even steeper as you ascend to the Hog Back, a high snow
ridge that has migrated back and forth across the face of the mountain
through recorded history. At approximately 10,800 feet you come to the
Bergschrund, the huge crevase which pulls away from the steep crater
head wall as the season progresses. Pass the Bergschrund on the left
or right depending on the conditions, and start up the very steepest
part of the entire climb. Most climbing parties will want to be roped
up during this part of the climb. A fall would almost certainly end
in the deep crevase of the the Bergschrund or a hazardous uncontrolled
fall to the area of the Devils Kitchen or the Hot Rocks. At 10,900 feet
you pass upward through a steep gully frequently totally encrusted in
rime ice. Above you find the Pearly Gates, which are several rock up
thrusts that are normally totally encrusted with wind sculpted columns
of crusted rime ice. Just another few hundred feet brings you to the
summit ridge at 11,240 feet. Approach the east edge of the summit cautiously.
since it is a tremendous snow cornice with a verticle fall off of a
thousand feet or more. To the north you can see Mt. Adams, St. Helens
and even Mt. Ranier. To the south lie Mt. Jefferson and the Three Sisters.
This is one of the best views of the Cascades anywhere.
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