the birdroom
diet
projects
AVICULTURE IS A TERM DERIVED FROM THE LATIN WORDS "AVIS", MEANING "BIRD" AND "CULTURA", MEANING "CULTURE", HENCE THE KEEPING AND BREEDING OF BIRDS. THIS SECTION DEALS WITH AVICULTURE AS IT PERTAINS TO PARROT FINCHES IN PARTICULAR BUT CAN BE APPLIED TO ALL GRANIVOROUS (SEED EATING) BIRDS IN GENERAL. THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECTS OF AVICULTURE ARE HOUSING AND DIET. IT IS CRITICAL THAT WE TRY TO EMULATE THE HABITAT AND THE AVAILABLE FOODS OF THESE BIRDS AS CLOSELY AS POSSIBLE. IT MIGHT BE HELPFUL TO BECOME FAMILIAR WITH THE SPECIES' REQUIREMENTS IN THE WILD PRIOR TO TRYING TO ESTABLISH THE PROPER CAPTIVE ENVIRONMENT. FOR THAT PLEASE REFER TO THE SPECIFIC SECTION ON PARROT FINCHES.
Most aviculturalists come into the hobby gradually, making purchases of equipment as the need arises. Sometimes, as these needs and interests change or grow, equipment becomes obsolete or, at least, less than adequate. We all have our "pet store" cages that are really unsuitable for most of the bird species that are housed in them. These cages usually lack in the dimension that is mostly needed to provide the possibility of flight, even in the most limited amount, that dimension being the length. The usual set-up before the enthusiast makes that major step of commitment that distinguishes a bird owner from an aviculturalist consists of several cages of various sizes and shapes located often in separate rooms of the house. Lighting is generally supplied by proximity to a window or a light fixture somewhat directed towards the cage. Humidity is basically at the mercy of the furnace humidifier, usually totally inadequate for human occupants, never mind our avian friends. Breeding efforts are next to impossible with the noise of the television blaring as the kids play video games, the lights going on and off at 11:00 PM and the cat trying to get to the tasty contents of the cages. Simply chores of cleaning and filling seed cups seem to take forever and the sanitation of having to work in the kitchen or bathroom is questionable. Let's not forget the seed husks littering the floor, the little puddles from the birdbaths and the jungle calls that always are loudest when you are on the telephone.
YOU NEED A BIRDROOM!!!
My interest in aviculture relates mostly to Estrildid finches and in particular to the Erythrura genus. Each bird genus as its own special requirements, after all you are trying to create an environment as natural for your birds as possible; the basic concepts, however, can be adapted to suit your birds.
Framing of separating partitions consists of 2x4 studding @ 60 cm (24") o.c. The partitions are clad with standard 12 mm (½") drywall board with the exception of the walk-in flights which are covered with 6 mm (¼") waferboard (Aspenite) with all edges supported. Douglas fir plywood would have been a better choice but I felt the cost was prohibitive. The use of a good quality plasticized paint will maintain the necessary washability and seal any toxic fumes that may be contained in the sheathing. The flights are enclosed on all sides with the exception of the fronts that consist of 12 mm (½") hardware cloth stretched on a wood frame. Each flight doorway is 1.80 m high by 0.60 m wide (6' x 2'), the balance of the front being a fixed wire panel containing a small swinging door assembly to provide quick and easy access to the feeding, drinking and bathing trays. An alternative to the single door main access door to the flight is a split door setup. The upper door section can then be left closed and the lower section used for most maintenance work. This is useful with parrot finches as they spook easily but tend to fly high in their search for an escape route. More on the design of indoor flights later.
Night lighting is provided by a photo-cell-activated night light plugged into a receptacle in the center of the ceiling of each area. These low intensity lights will permit the birds to find their perch or roosting nest should they be disturbed in the middle of the night. Screw in type 15W fluorescent bulbs will provide the intermediate lighting that allows the birds to wake up gradually in the morning and find their sleeping positions in the evening. The main lighting consists of four double bulb fluorescent fixtures in the breeding cages room and individual fixtures in each of the walk-in flights. Light control is provided by a Powerhouse X-10 timer system. The programmable control station can be located at any location in the house (including your home computer). No additional wiring is required as the signal is sent to switches and receptacles through existing house wiring. The cost is surprisingly reasonable as a starting kit consisting of a mini-timer control (4 circuits), 2 switch receivers and 2 receptacle receivers can be purchased for less than $100.
The need for a good quality humidifier is paramount if you raise tropical exotic birds. Winter humidity in your home should be at least 50% to protect your health and the health of any woodwork and furnishings. My birds really would prefer a humidity level closer to 70% so some compromising has to take place.
MY FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH THE FORBES PARROT FINCH
AT THE CANADIAN BIRD SHOW. THIS PAIR IS NOW IN MY COLLECTION.
| FOODSTUFF | PROTEIN | FAT | FIBER | ASH | CARBOHYDRATE |
| egg white | 10 | 1 | 0 | 1 | 0 |
| egg yolk | 15 | 24 | 0 | 1 | 0 |
| bread | 16 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 70 |
| peanut butter | 30 | 40 | 3 | 2 | 15 |
| rice | 8 | 2 | 9 | 5 | 65 |
| oats | 12 | 4 | 12 | 3 | 58 |
| millet | 13 | 2 | 9 | 4 | 62 |
| canary seed | 14 | 4 | 21 | 10 | 27 |
| spray millet | 15 | 6 | 11 | 6 | 51 |
| sunflower | 15 | 28 | 29 | 3 | 17 |
| fennel | 16 | 12 | 14 | 9 | 32 |
| niger | 19 | 43 | 14 | 3 | 12 |
| rape | 20 | 45 | 6 | 4 | 18 |
| caraway | 20 | 17 | 16 | 7 | 29 |
| poppy | 21 | 50 | 5 | 7 | 10 |
| sesame | 21 | 47 | 5 | 6 | 19 |
| hemp | 22 | 30 | 19 | 5 | 16 |
| flax | 24 | 37 | 6 | 4 | 22 |
| green vegetables | 10 | 3 | 25 | 1 | 20 |
All my birds get a basic finch millet/canary seed mixture
blended with a wild seed mixture in the ratio of 50 lbs.
to 25 lbs. I serve this mixture both dry and also germinated
(soaked 48 hrs). My parrot finches will ignore the dry seed
in favor of the germinated. I serve one heaping teaspoon per
pair throughout the year. I also serve grated hardboiled egg
every other day and twice a day when young are present.
Romaine lettuce and/or spinach are served on alternating
days with the egg. I have tried the orange slices without
much success. However they simply love the tiny seeds in dry
figs. As to live food, I don't use it. I know breeders that
swear by it. It is probably a requirement when breeding waxbills
bur parrot finches do very well without live food. I know that
blue breasted parrot finches are strictly seed-eaters. Other
species also love and require fruit (figs), the Royal Parrot
Finch for example. Germinated seed has a much higher protein
content than dry seed. And chopped egg provides all the animal
protein the young need.
1) Use clean, fresh seed from a reputable supplier. Avoid mixes containing oily seeds. If your seed does not sprout within 48 hours, change suppliers.
Here is all the equipment you'll need:
2 flat bottomed plastic sieves. The round ones with the fine plastic
mesh at the bottom. 4" (10 cm) in diameter and 2" (5 cm) deep. (handle
on one site, lip on opposite side)
2 one quart (1 liter) plastic measuring cups.
Fill one sieve with seed to 1/2" (12mm) from the top. Rinse well under
the tap. Fill measuring cup halfway with room temperature water. Place
sieve in it. Slowly add water to top of seed. Leave in a warm and secure
location. Rinse, stir with spoon and top up with water each morning and
evening. Rinse well and serve after 48 hours. Germination is dependant
on water temperature, so experiment. You need the second sieve/cup for
next day use so that your birds are NEVER WITHOUT! Don't forget to clean
equipment before each use.
Germinating millet sprays takes longer and since it is such a treat for
the birds as is, I don't usually bother.
Germinated seed has much higher nutritional value than dry seed and for
the extra 10 minutes of preparation involved, it is certainly worth the
effort.
Remember, if you are raising your birds in a laboratory, you are not
having any fun!
Accept it as a given that all parrot finches are prone to obesity.
But none so much so as the Forbes Parrot Finch. Because of
incorrect diet and lack of exercise, the Forbes soon becomes
lethargic. Once that has happened, it is very difficult if not
impossible to slim the bird again. A good diet is an important
part of keeping your parrot finches healthy.
GERMINATED SEED
There is been a lot of hype of recent on the dangers of feeding germinated seed to finches that I hope it will not discourage budding aviculturalists from using this, the most natural of seed-eating birds' food. Surely no-one thinks that birds in the wild find their food pre-washed, sterilized and vitiminized. Soaked or germinated seed is the basic diet for wild birds, my birds and I hope your birds. I serve dry seed as a back-up and most of my birds rarely touch it. All it takes to prepare germinated seed is a few minutes daily and a little common sense. Here are some tips on how:
2) Do not use seed that has been vitiminized. For one, you are waisting your money.
3) Do not use mixtures containing other products other than seed.
4) Experiment with different size seed mixtures. You will find that mixtures containing smaller seeds are more prone to mould.
5) Don't be concerned about a slight odor of fermentation. Is is NORMAL!
Just rinse the seed well before serving (until the water flows clear).
6) Do not under any circumstances add bleach to this mixture or to drinking water, for that matter.
7) One sieve of seed feeds about 50 finches daily, adjust as required.
THE IMPORTANCE OF WATER
As with all birds, clean, fresh water must be available to Parrot Finches at all times.
In addition to this, these finches are consumate bathers. As long as the water is available and is reasonably clean, they will be in it.
And it doesn't matter whether it is their bath water or their drinking water in a tube.
Deprive them of their bath for long periods and their plumage will start to suffer and their overall conditioning will slip.
It is therefore necessary that they receive their bath daily. Since I normally put vitamin drops in the drinking water only, I usually fill their drinkers first and then fill their bath trays. A Parrot Finch that bathes in abandonament is generally a healthy bird.
PLANS FOR A DISPLAY CAGE |
PLANS FOR A BANK OF 6 CAGES |
PLANS FOR FOSTERING CAGES |
PLANS FOR A HOSPITAL CAGE |
BUILDING AN INDOOR AVIARY |
NESTS AND NESTING SITES |
