Trip Report : South Eastern Zimbabwe Lowveld.

Senuko - Mahenye 16-19 January 1998

by Etienne Marais

I was priveleged to be invited by Zimbabwe Sun for a short birding trip to two prime birding localities in the south-eastern Lowveld of Zimbabwe. The group of five was: Mike Bridgeford, Monty Brett, Geoff Lockwood, Ken Newman and myself. We were accompanied by Dave Bunyard of Zimbabwe Sun and joined in Zimbabwe by Derek Solomon of on Safari International. Clive Stockil birded with us at Senuko. We were ably assisted by Rob Waters and the staff at Senuko, as well as Mark Homan at Mahenye.

Day 1: Senuko Safari Lodge

Depart Lanseria at 07:00. Land at Chiredzi at about 09:40. After clearing customs our plane hops on to the Senuko landing strip where we come to a quick halt in a muddy patch at the end of the runway. We are met by Derek, Clive and Rob

The short drive back to the camp produces Lesser Honeyguide, Stierlings Barred Warbler, Long-tailed Starling and as we pull into the lodge a pair of Boulder Chat. After checking into the really super Senuko Lodge we head off for a bit of birding around the lodge. The lodge is superbly set into a granit koppie, and proves to be almost impossible to photograph! Although it is nearly midday, we pick up quite a number of birds, including both "black-headed" and "masked" forms of the Spotted-backed Weaver, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Plumcolored Starling, Bateleur and Natal Francolin.

After a fascinating talk on the Save Valley Conservancy by Clive Stockil and an afternoon break, we head out on a birding drive in two open landrovers. Woodland Kingfisher are everywhere and a stop to look at a tree, flushes a couple of small owls in densely treed gully. We suspect Barred Owl, but fail to see the bird. Tall mopane woodland yields the striking Arnot's Chat and soon afterwards a party of Raquet-tailed Rollers provide my first lifer! Eastern Redfooted Kestrel and Lesser Spotted Eagle turn out to be common and a small termite eruption attracts masses of birds. We investigate a mobbing party of Longtailed Starlings and get too close for comfort to the object of their wrath - a deadly looking but beautiful Black Mamba. Yellowbilled and Grey Hornbill, Redbacked Shrike and European Bee-eaters are everywhere.

The birding is so good that we inevitably run late. Another great sighting is had of European Hobby and the other vehicle calls us on the radio to say that the Bat Hawk's are putting on a show and that we should get to the nesting site before the light fades. We make the "sundowner site" in good time and are greeted with the amazing site of not one, but three Bat Hawks sitting in the rays of the setting sun! WOW WHAT A SIGHT! The adults pose on either side of the nest , while the juvenile bird, with white front sits between them. Geoff stands on a stick in the process of setting up his camera and the two adults are off and circling. Suddenly the sabre-winged shapes of Hobbies appear and we are treated to the spectacle of three Hobbies mobbing the two, much larger Bat Hawks. Zambezi beer never tasted so good, and it nearly dark before we head back for camp, picking up a pair of Spotted Eagle Owl and several Large Spotted Genets on the way.

After what is essentially the butt part of the day, our trip tally stands at 104 species and I have picked up two lifers.

Day 2 Senuko Safari Lodge

Mike and I are up at about 04:30 and enjoy the dawn chorus across a small valley in front of our lodge. We are out at 05:30. We take a long drive eastwards towards the Save River, the intention being to scout some pans close to a new bushcamp which is being built amidst dense riverine woodland. The drive is productive with a range of raptors, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Greyhooded Kingfisher and Purple Widowfinch being seen. At the pans themselves a variety of waders, herons and ducks are seen, including Black Egret, Knobbilled Duck and African Jacana. We take a breakfast snack at the new bushcamp, where a range of different birds are recorded: Yellowbellied Bulbul, Thrush Nightingale, Redbacked Mannikin and Narina Trogon among them. A walk in the woodland between the pans produces a remarkable show as we catch the start of a major termite eruption. A wide array of birds start hawking the flying alates including several species which would hardly be considered hawkers! Greyhooded, Woodland and Brownhooded Kingfishers are all seen hawking from the same spot. Weavers, Burn't-necked Eremomela's, Paradise Whydah's and a Red-collared Widow join the fray. Cardinal Woodpeckers make clumsy but effective termite catchers before the "big-guns" of the termite eaters start to arrive. Swallows including Mosque, large numbers of European and other Swifts and raptors - most of which are Lesser-spotted Eagles. Over the next half-hour we are spell-bound as eagle after eagle arrives. About 25 Lesser Spotted, several Steppe, and Wahlberg's are complemented by Bateleur, Fish Eagle, Yellowbilled Kite and a flock of White and Yellow-billed Stork.

Too soon we have to leave, being treated to another excellent view of Raquettailed Roller on the way back. After a hearty lunch and longish afternoon lounge, we head out for another afternoon drive. This time we get an excellent view of roosting Barred Owl, see African Goshawk, Martial Eagle, Redheaded and Redbilled Buffalo Weavers, Meyer's Parrot and a good variety of game. The sundowner kopje rings with the calls of Cape Parrot and we enjoy a cold beer atop a granite domed koppie inhabitated by a family of Boulder Chats.

End of day 2: Bird tally stands at 177 species.

Day 3 Mahenye Safari Lodge

An early start is made to get to Mahenye, to the South East. The drive is interrupted by a few good sightings - including that of Dusky Lark and Dickinson's Kestrel. Nevertherless, we reach Mahenye in good time for a hearty breakfast and late morning outing. Mahenye is situated just above the Junction of the Save and Runde Rivers, across on an island on Ndowoyo communal land. The wildlife resources on this land are managed by the Gazaland District Council as part of Zimbabwe's trailblazing CAMPFIRE Project. The lodge is like Senuko, superbly situated - this time in dense riverine vegetation on an island.

Our outing takes us across the Save river into the Gonarezhou National Park. Bluecheeked & Carmine Bee-eaters and Broadbilled Rollers are in evidence along the river, and once again large raptors are relatively common. A riverine search for Fire-Crowned Bishop produced some controversy, and Red Bishop goes onto my triplist ! Kinfishers, Rollers and Bee-eaters are well represented, as are Hornbills and Shrikes. We flush Kurrichane ButtonQuail and Ken Newman gets a lifer in the form of a Green (Twinspot) Widowfinch! Mike Bridgeford on the other vehicle spots a sleeping European Nightjar on a branch - a new record for the area. It is hot and our stop at a lookout platform overlooking a seasonal pan sees the welcome arrival of lunch and plenty of cold beer. Elephants are seen in the area, and remnants of the water in the pan attract Saddlebilled and Yellowbilled Stork. I manage to get good views of a calling Blackbacked Cisticola and we head back to camp, passing a famous "stumpnose" elephant on the way.

During the afternoon rest, excitement comes in the form of a Honey Buzzard. At about 4:30 we are off to scout an area of prime riverine forest. The route to the forest crosses strange flooplain dunes where Double-banded Sandgrouse and Temminck's Courser are seen. The forest is superb: Tambourine Dove flashes past and Geoff calls up a Narina Trogon which keeps out of sight. Emerald Cuckoo, Heuglins Robin and Yellowspotted Nicator are heard, while a pair of Wattle-eyed Flycatcher show themselves. Towards evening a Wood Owl is heard calling and the light of the spotlight picks out a Rufouscheeked Nightjar.

End of day 3, trip tally stands at 230 species

Day 4 Mahenye Safari Lodge

A slightly later start at 6 am allows for an early morning stroll around the island. This allows good views of the resident White-crowned Plover, and I pick up the rich tones of a Thrush Nightingale - a first for the area. Then we are off to see a unique sand forest on Ndowoyo communal land. The drive is interrupted by sightings of Brownheaded Parrot, Purple Crested Lourie, Jacobin Cuckoo and Green Pigeon. A bird party in Mopane woodland includes tiny Grey Penduline Tits and the large Greyheaded Bush Shrike. The forest borders on a village and we park in the school yard, to be greeted by some smartly dressed teachers. In the background Gorgeous Bush Shrike call and an African Goshawk clicks its way across the sky. This forest is unique in Zimbabwe and is one of the few places where Woodwards Batis can be found. We pick up Bearded Robin, Blue-grey Flycatcher, and Woodward's Batis which respond to a tape. Narina Trogon and Yellow-spotted Nicator are heard calling. This is a magnficent patch of forest and we are sorry to have to head back to the camp. The return trip does however allow for excellent views of a Green Widowfinch. Back at Manhenye I am sorry to be packing up, and a final quick walk around the camp provides an excellent sighting of Mottled Spinetail.

It is midday when we leave, flying out along the Save and Runde rivers in order to get fantastic aerial views of the Chilolo cliffs.

Overall we have recorded 249 species, and I for one, will definately be coming back to this great birding area ! 

• Go to Trip List
• With special thanks to On Safari International - who can help organise your birding trip to the South-eastern Lowveld (or other parts of Zimbabwe and Southern Africa) 
• Under Construction - visitor's guide to SE Lowveld of Zimbabwe with a focus on Senuko and Mahenye.