Stunning HTML, no? This is the template page for my little project... started several MONTHS ago and still not finished. More details writing fill paper notebooks and countless text files in various places. Someday soon these will be organized and posted for the perusal of all interested parties.
For now, the first quick round of pics showing the H22A coming out of the donor car. I didn't get a good picture of the speedo--one can see that the odometer/speedometer has everything in metric numbers. Maximum speed is 200kph, which is around 117 mph. I am told that the ECU cuts the fuel at this speed. Quite interesting....
My friend looking over the engine. (42kb) Love the facial expression, even though it didn't scan well.
Engine in the car. (63kb)
Engine in the car (better shot). (107kb)
It's out! (50kb)
The mess left behind. (112kb) Notice that unlike the 3G Accord, the upper front member is solid. In later pics, my car's front end has been stripped--getting the H22A engine and tranny in has never been easier!
Dash madness. (92kb) Crappy pic. Didn't like the dash much, and most of what's shown is in the junkyard (still have the pedals somewhere though).
Next, we have a variety show of the H22A engine in various states. Can you name the parts?
Flywheel shot of the hanging H22A. (118kb) No tranny in this pic. You can't see the scored flywheel either. I will be taking this to a machine shop for re-surfacing. It looks like the stock clutch was just beginning to give out when the car was junked. Like my improvised engine hanger made from the A20 torque bar?
A selection of the JDM wiring. (93kb) Yes, I have to shoehorn this into my car. Don't panic though, only about 1/4th of that is actually needed. Maybe less. Once I build the harness for the Accord, I'll lay it out and take pics. Basically, there's one bundle from the computer to the engine, one bundle to the Cruise Control unit, and a few lines to other stuff (instrument cluster, service connections, main relay). I'm still trying to figure out what the "Electrical Load Detector" is. Do I just connect that wire to 12V+?
The red zip tie is SUPPOSED to be pointing at the oil pressure tap. (33kb) Requires a Torx bit for removal. There's another around the corner too...
Lots of stuff here. (130kb) H22A hanging w/ tranny. Tranny mount and rear engine mount attached. The engine looks clean from here, doesn't it? Note the fixture just to the right of the oil filter? That is a custom-made piece used to hang the engine while putting the tranny on. It will have to come off to get this into the engine compartment.
Next we have the Accord stuff and the engine going in. There's lots more pics, but little worth posting at this point.
The old engine. (124kb) Note that I've painted the valve cover Ford Blue. I also painted the air cleaner box Chevy Orange. What can I say? I had these blue plug wires on it about a year ago, and remember thinking "hey, wouldn't this look cool with..." and the rest is history. Missing from this pic is the exhaust manifold heat shield, which happens to be painted to match the valve cover. Now I'm wishing I had pics of the engine compartment "before."
Poor pic of the Accord interior. (136kb) Seats and shifter gone, along with the instrument cluster. Note that as I post this, I have also removed the steering wheel and controls, as well as the dash, the computer, and the carpet. This is necessary to do the EFI conversion, as well as splice the H22A wiring into this chasis.
A/C bracket. (59kb) From the H22A. Yes, I'm keeping AC, but that p.o.s. bracket has to go. Using that thing, the compressor hits the forward cross-member. Unacceptable. Expect to see pics of the new one when I'm done building it.
Cable vs. Hydro. (52kb) H22A clutch master cylinder, A20 cable (transmission end). The next firewall shot shows why I'm keeping the cable system. HASport will soon have a bolt-on conversion for B-series transmission, but it looks like I'm on my own. I have not one, but several ideas for this. More info as it is available.
No room for hydro. (79kb) Now we're getting down to it. Where the heck am I gonna mount a clutch master cylinder? The brake booster is jammed right up against the body. The upper suspension mounts to that, so I can't simply cut it out. Hence the need for a cable to the transmission.
It had to go. (45kb) Yep. This thing will kill your TPS if you drop the engine in with it in place. Chop that bastard off and paint the exposed metal. Of course, you could do some reinforcement (I'm thinking welded plate), but keep in mind what's glued to the other side before you heat anything up.
Time for a test fitting. (133kb) This is a "before" pic. Note that the torque bar mount hasn't yet been cut off the firewall. The tranny isn't on the engine either. This is how I made sure that the little bugger wasn't necessary.
Close, but no banana. (122kb) Now, where the heck is the transmission going to go? This is when we pull the engine out, cut some stuff back, and try, try again. By the way, the battery is in the trunk, so this is about as open as it gets. Don't worry, the engine does fit in here with the transmission, as well as it fit in the JDM Prelude. I'll have to get a picture of that soon.
Lucky me. (101kb) Yep. If you can see that cover is off on one of the little ports, that's where the fuel pump is hiding. The 1988/89 carb models have the fuel pump INSIDE the the tank, just like the EFI models. A new fuel tank is a good idea at this point, but it's nice knowing that I won't have to dig the useless 2psi stock fuel pump out of the chasis later on. The EFI conversion will include lots of hard pipe from a donor car, so I won't be popping any gas lines in the future (I hope).
And finally (drumroll please...)
H22A in the car! No hood yet... or front end... or fenders, but you get the idea. Those funky gray hoses are for the remote oil filter mount. The oil filter and exhaust aren't stagged the same on the H22A as they are on the A20A1, plus I wanted a bigger filter, so I ordered this baby. Also note the same orange fuse box and complete lack of a battery in the engine compartment.
Poor welding job. I welded a stud into this spot (10x1.25 metric I believe), but the sucker snapped off before it was completely torqued down. The other two bolts go into securely mounted nuts, and that fancy flange I added to the front is as solid as they come. Two our of three isn't bad in this case.
Poor pic of the worst welding job in history. Believe it or not, this one is solid (it had better be, there's a 1/2" of welding beads built up around both sides. Note that even with the front cross-member dropped, you still need to cut this part back about 1/2" to make room for the bell housing. The cut I made was WAY too big. Measurements coming... later.
Rear cross-member cut. This one was much easier. You could also just take a hammer to it and fold down the flange, then pound in the area where clearance is really tight. I used a small ball-peen hammer and all I can say is WEAR EARPLUGS!
The rear mount! Will measure clearance again, but basically the rear mount just needed this raised platform. Notice that nice, sturdy stud (that actually held, see above) required to make this work.
Tranny mount. This one is easy. Get some steel plate, a sawsall, and a welding machine... Note the A20 driver's side engine mount used in place of the H22A's massive rubber transmission piece.
Disassembly of the JDM Prelude.
That's all for now, folks!
