Since I traded my OEM oil pan for the one that was already tapped for the drain line from the turbo, the install was a matter of simply swapping the pans.  If you are installing from scratch, you will have to drop the pan, have the fitting welded, and re-install it all in one shot.  As I mentioned on the other page, I had a little problem with the tap that was on the pan that came with the kit.  In the photo to the right, you can see the original fitting laying on top of the fitting I had done.  Notice the size of the hole in the top fitting is only 1/4" and the one in mine is 1/2".

The fitting installed in the top and left photos probably will not be used.  It is a 45° angle, but how the oil line sits after the turbo is installed will determine which fitting to use.  The other option is a straight 1/2" hose barb.  The oil line must be carefully routed around the downpipe, collectors, and header to make it to the oil pan.  It must hang on a continually downward angle (drain works on gravity) without kinks or upward travel.

I should note that the tap is located on the front of the oil pan towards the driver's side of it and was welded both on the inside (see above left) and outside of the fitting. 

Obviously, the first thing to do is to drain the oil from the pan.  Make sure you have fresh oil and a filter to install before beginning this!  While you're at the store picking them up, it would really be in your best interest to spend the $10 on the Fel Pro oil pan gasket (OS 30909C for the 2.5L).  If not, you will need Permatex RTV.   I would suggest either Ultra Copper or Ultra Grey.  The two drawbacks to the RTV are that 1) it does not ensure a complete seal (because it depends on how you put it on, it can easily be smeared/wiped off during re-install, and is oil soluable to some extent) and 2) you have to wait 24 hours for it to fully cure.

Once I had everything necessary, it was time to swap the pans.  I got a set of ramps for my birthday, so it was time to try them out!  Here is a photo of the stock oil pan with all of the splashguards removed. 

To remove the pan, the y-pipe has to come down.  That means the cross-member must be dropped also.  You could try to work around it, but the time it takes to remove the y-pipe and cross member don't add greatly to the to job and make things much easier.

This is fairly simple: remove all of the 10mm bolts around the perimeter of the pan.  Under where the y-pipe comes across it, there are (2) 12mm bolts that are about 5" long.  In order to get these out, it is easier if you remove the (2) outermost 14mm bolts on the inspection cover.  You can take all three out and remove it if you want to see your flywheel, but I would suggest having the cover on (held by the middle bolt) so no oil has a chance of getting in while lowering the oil pan.  If you think your stock clutch slips now, add a little oil in there!

Chances are that the pan will not fall off once all of the bolts are out.   As a matter of fact, you may have a difficult time getting it off with all of the bolts removed.  Whatever Ford uses from the factory as a sealant is also a terrific glue.  On the rear driver's side of the pan, there is a corner with a "blank nut".  Find yourself a matching bolt, thread it in and begin to tighten it.   The bolt will eventually hit the bottom of the block.  Continue turning and it will push the pan away from the block.  For a little extra help, a large flathead screwdriver (or similar) can be used to pry the pan off.  Make sure not to go in too deep with the screwdriver as you may hit the windage tray.  Also, don't pull down too hard as you may bend the pan.  Take your time and just work your way around.  By the time the back side is pulled away from the block, you should be able to pull the entire pan off by hand.  Make sure you have a piece of cardboard of large square pan to catch any oil dripping off of the windage tray or the oil pick-up tube.  There will be some oil in the bottom of the pan when you remove it, just be careful not to spill any.

Now, I simply cleaned out the pan that I took off and re-installed the one that I had the fitting welded on.  If you don't have a separate pan that was tapped previously (from a junkyard possibly), you will need to have the fitting welded on at this time and then re-install the pan.

Before re-installing anything, make sure to clean any old sealant off of the pan and the block.  For the pan, I used a wire brush attachment on a drill.  For the block, a scraper (razor) worked well.  If using RTV only, it is imperative that both the pan and block surfaces be oil free.

Simply to ensure a tight seal around the bolts, I laid a very thin line (1/8") of Ultra Grey RTV around the entire lip on the in-side of the bolt holes.  I then laid the gasket on and lined it up with the holes.  After that, I pressed it on slightly so the RTV would hold it in place.  I then took a rag and wiped any oil off of the block and then put the pan into place.  I waited until all of the bolts were hand tightened and then proceeded to torque them down.  The short bolts specs are 8-10Nm (71-88 lb-in) and the two long bolts are 19-25Nm (14-18 lb-ft).

With the pan bolted down, this is what the tapped pan looks like.  As you can see, the fitting is as high up on the pan as possible.  This is due to the fact that the drain line must be above the fill line of the pan for the gravity drain to work.

Now, on most turbo kits for the Probes (ATS), there is no need for the next section and you could simply bolt everything back together.  However, since my kit is a one-off custom kit, I had to replace the cross memeber under the tranmission.  Since the collectors on this kit are 2.5", the cross-member has been modified to make room for these pipes.

As you can see in this photo, the modified member had a section removed and was replaced with a bent piece of steel.  The collectors and downpipe run over that area when the kit is installed.  Without making this change, the pipes would not fit with the member installed.

Simply, to install this member, unbolt the front motor mount and transmission mount from the OEM member.  Then simply unbolt the OEM member from the car at the front and rear.  Re-install the modified member the same way.

As seen in this photo, the modified member bolts in directly in place of the OEM version, incorporating the motor and transmission mounts. Note the bend in the member from the transmission, forward.  Both the collectors and downpipe run over the top of it.

Since the turbo is not being installed as of this time, I have the oil pan tap blocked off with a length of hose and a bolt clamped in it.

This is with everything installed (except the splashguards).  If you look carefully, this gives a better view of the bent cross member.  The rear collector will come from the back where the y-pipe passes over the oil pan.  The front collector comes straight down and meets the rear collector where they both run sideways over the bent part of the cross member and then straight up to the turbo.

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