The Grand Canyon - South Rim to Ribbon Falls to the South Rim
Via The Bright Angel Trailhead
December 20, 2007
Trip Report

Well, I had done some serious rock climbing at Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas; and some pretty cool mountaineering on Humphreys Peak.  Now, it was time for some extreme trail running, in one of the most unique and challenging places; the Grand Canyon.  I had done a bit of preliminary research.  My research basically told me that a southern approach would probably be ok in December, but the North side would most likely be snowed in.  I also determined that December was not the greatest time of year for a Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim attempt.  A R2R2R is a trip from one side of the Grand Canyon, down to the bottom, back up the other side, then a return trip, all the way to the point of origin.  This is an extreme trip in good months, and December isn't one of those months.  Several things made December bad:
  1. Short daylight hours - I was expecting that a 47 mile R2R2R attempt would take me 14-15 hours.  I would only have 9 or 10 hours of daylight at this time of year.
  2. The conditions on the North side were unknown; probably heavy snow towards the top.
  3. The North side access was closed in Winter, so I would not have much company, or nobody crossing my path, if something were to go wrong.
  4. I was concerned about the conditions on the trail, and I didn't want to start out in the dark, with a headlamp.  Especially on a trail that I didn't know at all.
  5. 47 miles is just a heck of a long way...
My initial thought was to make the R2R2R attempt anyway.  But, I got lazy the night before and decided that I didn't really want to get up at 5 am.  So, I slept in.  That pretty much cemented my attempt at a shorter version, this time.  I car camped in a hotel parking lot just outside the park.  I awoke around 7:30, and got started on the trail around 8 am.  My start point for this trip would be the Bright Angel Trail Head.  The South Kaibob TH required a shuttle to the TH, and I just didn't want to deal with that.  I knew that I'd be chilled at the end, and I wanted to be at my car, not waiting for a shuttle.  The Bright Angel TH did require a slightly longer trip though.  As I got started, I made it out just before the 8 o'clock mule train - luckily.  I was lucky to not have to hike/run behind the mules at all that day.

I started out running pretty solid.  The trail at the top mile or two was ice and snow covered, but not very thick.  It was packed down well, and plenty slippery, but I was able to manage ok.  I didn't slip, and I stayed on the inside edge just in case.  I was very glad that I chose to wear my Innov8 trail shoes today.  The extra traction was necessary.  My splits are listed in the chart below, so I won't go through every one in the report.  I ran by the 1.5 mile rest house, the 3.0 mile rest house, and made it to the Indian Gardens in great time (around an hour).  I didn't see too many people during the major part of the descent, but I saw a couple of groups around the Indian Gardens area.  As I was running through that area, one guy asked me, "Did you run from the top this morning?"  I said, "Yeah!  I left an hour ago."  He reaction let me know that I was making pretty good time.

The trail is really nice.  It is about 6-8 feet wide most of the way down.  It ventures through a variety of ecosystems as you get lower and lower.  The vegitation changes are the most apparent evidence that you are going through different ecosystems.  Once I got past the Indian Gardens, it leveled out a lot, with only a mild down hill, all the way to the river.  At the river, the trail heads East along the river, until you get to the bridge, which goes over to the Phantom Ranch area.  I made the Phantom Ranch in about 2 hours almost exactly.  This was the lowest point of elevation in my trip.  I needed to make a decision, "Should I head back now, or venture up the other side a bit."  Quickly I decided to go ahead up the other side.  After reading some of the mileage signs, I got my sights set on getting to Ribbon Falls.  That would most likely be my turn around point.  Ribbon Falls was about 6 miles up the North side.  The trip to the falls was relatively mild.  The grade was mild, and it was consistent the whole way.  The trail followed the Bright Angel Creek the whole way.  The evidence of how this canyon had been cut out of the rock was obvious, even in this section, where Bright Angel Creek was flowing.  The width of the canyon basically consisted of the creek, the trail, and rock faces on both sides, most of the way up.  As the trail got closer to Ribbon Falls, it opened up a little more, but the awesomeness was still high.  I got to the falls in around 1 and a half hours.  At this point, I had started doing a bit more walking, so I was happy with that pace.  The falls were small, but beautiful.  I adventured around the falls a bit.  I even went up and behind the falls, climbing up one side, passing behind the falls, and back down on the other side.  After I finished my investigating, I started back towards the Phantom Ranch.

On the way back to the Phantom Ranch, I realized how much of the trip to the falls had been up hill.  It was gradual, but on the return trip, I could feel the downhill.  That was nice.  I got back to the Ranch in about 10 minutes faster than my trip to the Falls.  That would be the last time that I would say "faster" about anything this day.

I refilled water at the Phantom Ranch, and started my long ascent back towards the trailhead.  My ascent miles were definitely much slower.  I stuggled to even keep 30 minute miles on the ascent.  As I got towards to top it started to get dark.  And, it started to get chilly.  It didn't help much that I was moving slowly, not able to get warmed up.  I finally reached the top in 9 hours total round trip.  I rushed to the car, and turned on the heat to get warmed up.

I really enjoyed my first trip into the canyon.  I look forward to one day hitting the full R2R2R...

Pictures
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Route Information

TRAVEL TIMES
Time Est. Distance
Trailhead to Indian Gardens
1 hour
4.6 mi
Indian Garden to Phantom Ranch
1 hour
5.3 mi
Phantom Ranch to Ribbon Falls
1 hour 30 minutes
6 miles
At RIbbon Falls
10 minutes
-
Ribbon Falls to Phantom Ranch
1 hour 20 minutes
6 miles
Phantom Ranch to Indian Garden
1 hour 40 minutes
5.3 mi
Indian Garden to Trailhead
2 hours 20 minutes
4.6 miles
Round Trip
9:00:40 hours:minutes:seconds
31.8 miles