Rebuild

Rebuild

Rebuild Tools

Jeep

2SE	Float Gauge	J-9789-138
E2SE	Float Gauge	J-9789-136

S10

2SE	Float Gauge
E2SE	Float Gauge

Camaro

2SE	Float Gauge
E2SE	Float Gauge

Adjustable T-scale

Float height gauge

Choke Angle gauge J-26701-A or drill bits

Bending Tool J-97789-111 or flat-nose pliers

Carburetor Stand

Quantity	Description
8	5/16" Washers
8	5/16"-18 Nuts
4	5/16"-18 x 4" Carriage bolts

Other tools needed:

Safety Goggles!!!!!!!!!!

WEAR THEM WHEN USING CARBURETOR CLEANER!!!!!!!!!!!!

T-10, T-15, T-20, T-25, T-27, T-30 Torx driver bits

5/16" flat blade screwdriver for needle seat

3/16" flat blade screwdriver

#2 offset Phillips screwdriver to adjust the idle

A digital or analog tachometer

Needle nose pliers

Parts tray

9/16 flare nut wrench

1" open end wrench

13mm wrench

13mm socket

Universal joint

Socket extension

Ratchet (Note: 1/4" drive may fit better)

Vacuum pump

Vacuum hoses

Carburetor cleaner spray

Scraper

Vise grips

5mm x 0.80 tap and die

6mm x 1.00 tap and die

tap handle

die stock

Cleaning brush

Notes

EFE Grid (from How to Rebuild your GM 60 V6)

If your engine is fitted with a carburetor, An Early Fuel Evaporation (EFE) grid is probably used underneath it. This grid preheats the fuel as it flows from the carburetor to the inlet manifold, thereby improving driveablity when the engine is cold. Unfortunately, this grid has a tendency to disintegrate and cause driveability problems.

After sliding the EFE grid off the carburetor mounting studs, carefully inspect it. The bars forming the grid should not show signs of erosion, and the grid should be intact for the entire opening in the plate. If the grid has any problems, replace it.

Caption If you car or truck engine is equipped with a carburetor, and is a 1981 or newer model, and Early Fuel Evaporation (EFE) grid is used underneath the carburetor. Eventually, the EFE grid breaks up, causing a host of driveability problems. If yours is missing any part of the grid, replace it.

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http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/rochprob.html

Stripped fuel inlet

Most Rochester carburetors are made of "pot metal".
Karl not know what that means, but it is not as strong as steel.
As a result, a notorious problem is stripped threads on the inlet.
There is a solution for this, but it is not pretty. There is a part available from
GOOD auto parts stores. It is an oversized, self-tapping, inlet fitting marketed as a
"HELP!" or "Perfect Parts" product.
You install it by forcing it to cut new threads into the fuel inlet.

It has been suggested by Doug Kichener that these fittings not be removed as there are likely
to be small metal fragments held between the threads by the new fitting. Removing the fitting
could permit these bits to get into the carb and catch in the tiny channels which flow fuel.
Not good.

This is a good time to install an inline filter into the fuel line.
A new line is probably necessary anyway as the new fitting can be more than an inch long, which will
be a problem for any factory original steel tubing!

Disabled EGR system.

Neither Karl, Rochester Products Division, or anyone else contributing to this site advocates

or in any way recommends altering or disabling your emission control equipment in any way.

That said, those whose EGR systems have "mysteriously" ceased to function have noticed that

their vehicle runs differently when EGR is non-functional.

The reason for this is that the EGR pump operates on manifold vacuum.

The primary metering rods are raised/lowered into the jet orifices by a piston that responds

to the manifold vacuum signal. When the EGR is inoperative, the manifold vacuum signal

available to the carburetor is very different from the conditions that the metering rods

and jets were designed for! This typically results in a lean condition, possibly including "surging".

The only real solution is to fix the EGR system.

Those incorrigibles out there who refuse to do this have to have their carburetor re-jetted

and re-rodded to correct for this. Best just to use rods and jets from a pre-EGR carburetor of

the same displacement.

Hopefully, Karl will be able to provide the appropriate part #s here in the future.

On a similar note, if the ECM (computer) is disconnected from an appropriate-year

Quadrajet, a severely rich condition results. Again the only real cure is re-rodding.

Needle and Seat

This is addressing a problem that Karl has had with his 1965 Rochester 2GC.

The symptoms are a periodically terrible idle that may have coincided with an instance of

WOT and may similarly go away after another instance of WOT. The motor will sputter and die

at idle and in fuel will contimue to flow from the discharge nozzles after the engine has

died. Sometimes fuel will leak through the throttle plate hinge shaft holes to the outside

of the carburetor and onto the manifold!

This has been diagnosed for me as contamination preventing the needle from seating properly

and causing a flooding or overfilling of the float bowl.

The cure for this is to rebuild the carb and replace or adjust the needle and seat.

Remove any debris from the float bowl and check or replace the fuel filter.

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Notes:

Use the right gasket. It may not be an exact match due to changes in the design of the gasket, but it should still have the same holes blocked/unblocked the original one did or you WILL have problems.
Clean the carburetor. Try dipping it in a can of carburetor cleaner and brushing it off. Then spray it with some spray cleaner. Then dry with compressed air.

DO NOT USE THE CLEANER NEAR OPEN FLAME. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES. ONLY PUT METAL PARTS IN THE CLEANER BECAUSE IT IS VERY HARD ON PLASTIC (99% CHANCE IT WILL MELT PLASTIC). IF IT WILL DISSOLVE PLASTIC, IMAGINE WHAT IT COULD DO TO YOUR EYES, SO WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES. USE THE CLEANER IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA. DID I MENTION YOU SHOULD WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES?

If a vacuum line looks bad (cracked, dry-rotted, etc…) replace it.
Make sure the float level is correct. Too low a level causes a lean mixture, resulting in late or hard starting, a flat spot in acceleration, or stumble. Too high a level causes a rich mixture, resulting in the engine racing after starting, percolation, and even fuel pouring out the bowl vents.
Some parts need to be soaked overnight, brushed, and then sprayed off. You should wear safety goggles when you do that…
I have heard of two jet/metering rod sizes so far. #174 from high-altitude carburetors (I think) and #180 from others.

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Rochester Varajet carburetor quick-takes.

Motor Age, Jan 1983 v102 p28(2)

Dan Marinucci.

ROCHESTER VARAJET

CARBURETOR QUICK-TAKES

FIELD FIXIN' FINICKY FUELERS

On some of these Varajet secondary vacuum break diaphragms (circle), you have to grind off or cut off the cap on the end of the diaphragm before you can reach the adjustment screw inside it. Remember to find the air bleed hold in the diaphragm and tape the bleed closed before you pump it down for the ajustment.

Because we have gotten as many complaints about air horn screw location as we've gotten about the linkage on this carb, here (at left) is your own screw locator chart [chart not available]. Tighten screws in the numbered sequence.

Little one-use, throwaway clips adorn the Varajet's linkage. If the tip or end of the linkage points outward (arrow), the teeth or raised edges of the clip must point outward as shown here. If the end of the linkage points inward, clip's teeth point inward too. Don't press the clip on so tight that it binds up the linkage! New clips are included in carb overhaul kits. Instead of growing yourself a third arm, try taping the choke blade closed during choke linkage installation.

Oh horror! Secondary metering rod can fall out and sometimes does fall out of place. The stray metering rod may just create a severe bog or hesitation and then lay inside the secondary throat of the carb. Other times, it slips past the secondary throttle blade, falls into the engine, and creates a different kind of problem! When you install the metering rod, pull back the spring on the rod (circle) and be sure that the rod snaps firmly into the little bracket on the air valve.

Remember to dab some grease on that air valve spring where the arrow is pointing. Remember that some Varajets have a Q-jet style air valve adjustment screw and lock screw at the end of the air valve shaft, some don't.

If you are extremely careful, GM's procedure for hacksawing slots alongside the mixture plug and knocking the plug out with a punch words okay. But if you are slightly un-careful, you'll crack the throttle body--the base of the carb! Experience has taught us that the safest, easiest way to remove a mixture plug is to cut around the plug with a holesaw-type tool such as the Thexton 353 or the Borroughs BT-8211. Take your time, these carbs are expensive!

Whenever you get a Varajet-equipped engine that surges or runs poorly during light-throttle or part-throttle driving, check basic engine condition, check for fault codes in the computer control system, and then check the mixture solenoid dwell at 3000 rpm in neutral. Dwell at 3000 must average 35 |. Grab a Borroughs BT-7928 or a Kent-Mmore J-28696-10, the same mixture tools you use on the Dualjet and Q-jet. Remove the vent screen from the air horn and slide the tool into the lean mixuture/lean authority screw shown here.

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http://www.uq.net.au/~zznweber/commodore/tech/

Holden division of GM

VB - VK Substitute Carburetter (Black and Blue Motor)

The most common cause of engine troubles with the 202 motors was the Varajet carbi. It made the engines work to well bellow their potential. A cheap substitue for the varajet is a small Weber (32-36) off of the XE falcons. They cost around $40 dollars (plus adaption plate) and are easily fitted to these motors with only the accelerator cable mount needing to be modified. They not only provide greater horse power but also increase your fuel effeciency. (N/B: With the black motor in the

VK the secondary throttle sensor must be disconected and the computer (EST) must be reset.

From: Kris Humphrys

VH (possibly) and VK 3.3L Carby's flooding

If your sitting at the lights and your VH/VK stalls on you and a strong smell of petrol is hanging around, more than likely it is a stuck needle valve in the carby. One solution is to dismantle the carby and rekit it, or another simple and less expensive option is to take the air filter off, and where VARAJET is written, tap on it with a screwdriver. This will move the needle so it sits back in its seat.

From: David Redmond

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Carburetor Kit Application Guide

Gaskets

Carburetor Kit Contents

Inside the Carburetor

Exploded View Diagrams

Overhaul and Adjustment

Parts

Linkages

Screws

Use the numbers as the tightening sequence for the top screws.

Number	Quantity	Length	Thread	Torx driver
1	1	26mm	5mm x 0.80	T25
2	1	60mm	5mm x 0.80	T25
3	1	60mm	5mm x 0.80	T25
4	1	51.5mm	5mm x 0.80	T25
5	1	26mm	5mm x 0.80	T25
6	1	26mm	5mm x 0.80	T25
7	1	58mm	6mm x 1.00	T30
Bottom	4		6mm x 1.00	T30