The Jakarta Post, March 25, 2007
Sago the Eastern Islands' esteemed staple
Suryatini N. Ganie, Contributor, Jakarta
The flour of the sago plant (Metroxylon rumphii) is known as a useful flour or
thickening agent around the world, but to enjoy sago at its best, pay a visit to the
kitchens of the eastern islands of our archipelago.
It is said that the sago plant originated from East Papua. When the plant reaches the
age of about 10 years it will have several layers around the original stem and form a
kind of sediment used as a staple, after undergoing a certain procedure. One tree is
able to give about 800 to 1000 kilograms of sediment.
Among those who eat the sago sediment as a staple food are the inhabitants of
Maluku and South Sulawesi. It is made into a flour-like substance that is then cooked
into various foodstuffs.
In Maluku the fine sifted flour is made into a papeda, a rather thick porridge eaten
daily with fish and other local dishes. South Sulawesi likes its pogalu or kapurung.
Manado in North Sulawesi is on the sweet side with bagea.
To make papeda, the dried sago flour is finely sifted and then cold water is poured
over it and stirred until completely mixed. Then boiling water is added and by stirring
again the flour will thicken and is done.
Papeda is usually enjoyed with grilled fish and various soupy dishes and the unique
"spoon" is formed like a "fork". Another typical Maluku sago preparation is the sagu
lempeng, raw sago in thin and flat sheets which are pr! essed into special
earthenware forms and baked until done.
It then will be taken out of the forms and dried under the sun. This sago preparation is
mostly enjoyed in the afternoon with a hot beverage. But some eat it also at
breakfast.
In South Sulawesi, for example in Palopo, Tana Toraja, the fine flour which has been
already mixed with boiling water is taken by two bamboo sticks called pedui, and by
making circular movements the sago is formed into balls of approximately one
tablespoon which then are put into a vegetable broth.
The vegetables are mostly kangkung, the leaves of the labu kuning (pumpkin), bayam
(local spina! ch), and made into sayur bening, or vegetable bouillon.
Fish is sometimes added to the broth, small teri or anchovies. But the sago balls are
also sometime put in a meat broth like a soup.
Sambal to make the dish more pungent consists of a handful of red chilies, tomato
slices, trassi, salt and crushed fried, dried anchovies. Some tablespoons of lime juice
are served too for those who like it hot and sour.
Going to the northern end of Sulawesi, the Manadonese bagea is raw sago flour
mixed with kenari nuts, formed into balls and baked. The specific Manado bagea is a
cylindric sago preparation of about! eight cm and wrapped in sago leaves.
Watching the eagerness with which some people in our eastern islands obtain the
sago is very interesting and I admire their patient tenacity.
Before cutting a sago tree, they make some incisions to know whether the tree
contains enough sediment. When they are of the opinion that it will give a good result,
they cut the tree and divide it in approximately two meter parts.
The center of the tree, sometimes called hati (hearth), which has a rather reddish
color, is then beaten with a wooden stick called a nani until they resemble coarse
pieces, which are put into a basket made of coconut leaves.
To make the pressing procedure of the coarse pieces easier they make it first into a
fine substance. Finally they put it into a traditional sieve called sahani and press with
their hands.
The liquid sago is put into a special pot made of a piece of a sago stem which has
been discarded from the sediment.
The liquid obtained is not thrown away but after becoming clear it is slowly discarded,
finally leaving the sediment. The sediment will be dried so it can be eaten. But as
sago does not content sufficient nutritional agents, nutritious side dishes like fish or
vegetables are usually eaten with the sago. Well, go sago.
RECIPES
1. Dadar sagu
Sago pancake eastern islands' style
Ingredients:
200 g sago, sifted
75 g fairly young coconut flesh, grated
A pinch of salt
Method:
1. Mix sago and grated coconut and divide into 4 parts
2. Take a pancake pan with a 15 cm diameter and flatten one part sago covering the
pan
3. Over medium heat cook the sago until done and roll whil! st hot
4. Serve the sago pancake with a fish dish to your liking or a dish like the pindang
kenari
Makes: 4 servings
2. Bubur Saparua
A speciality from the region of Saparua
Ingredients:
250 g sagu lempeng (flat pieces of sago), supermarket, traditional market
500 ml hot water to soak the sago
500 ml medium thick coconut milk
25! 0 g gula merah (brown sugar)
2 screwpine leaves
A 10 cm cinnamon stick
A pinch of salt
2 boiled sweet corn cobs, kernels scraped
Method:
1. Soak sago in hot water until soft, then sieve
2. Mix coconut milk, brown sugar, screwpine leaves, cinnamon and salt
3. Boil until sugar is dissolved and then sieve
4. Add soft sago, corn kernels and boil again
5. Serve hot
Makes: 4 servings
3. Pindang kenari
A favorite fish dish in Maluku
Ingredients:
1 medium large, 500 g tongkol (tuna), cleaned, cut into 4-5 parts
1 Tbs lime juice
1 tsp salt
4 shallots, finely sliced
3 cloves garlic, finely sliced
2 red chilies, finely sliced
1 red tomato, thinly sliced
A slice of fresh turmeric, thinly sliced
2 Tbs cooking oil, for stir frying
2 sticks lemon grass
4 limau lime leaves
50 g kenari nuts, skinned
400 ml water
1 tsp salt or to taste
Method:
1. Marinate the tuna in lime juice and salt for about 10 minutes
2. Stir fry shallots, garlic, chilies, tomato, turmeric until aromatic
3. Add lemon grass, lemon lime leaves an! d kenari nuts
4. Add water, let come to the boil, add tuna and season with salt
5. Continue cooking until tuna is done
Makes: 4 servings
4. Pepes sayuran
A steamed vegetable and chicken delicacy
Ingredients:
200 g taro stems (optional), finely cut
300 g chicken breast, cubed
4 shallots, finely sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely sliced
A slice of fresh ginger, sliced
? tsp salt or to taste
banana leaves, for wrapping
200 g sag! o flour
Toothpicks, for fastening
Method:
1. Mix taro stems, chicken meat, shallots, garlic, ginger and season with salt
2. Divide in 2 parts
3. Take a suitable piece of a banana leaf and put 100g sago flour and half of the mixed
ingredients
4. Close with toothpicks and put into a steamer and steam for about 20minutes over
medium heat
Makes: 2 servings
All contents copyright © of The Jakarta Post.
|
