Facia m69

Facia m71 - m87

FACIA & VENTILATION

The first two years 99's had a facia with parts borrowed from the 96.
The facia most of us know was introduced in 1971, and carried on unaltered up to 1987.
By today's standards, it doesn't look very modern, but it is immensly functional. The only thing you'll need to reach out for, is the radio. (On the 900, they solved that)
The switchgear may have an agricultural feeling compared to modern cars, but it's solid and not flimsy items that easily breake or fall off. Like on a LOT of French and Italian cars.

MB T1 switches

Across the whole switchpanel is a large self-adhesive photograph of wood. I've never understood why Saab would put fake wood in the 99, it's not the sort of car one expects to be filled with timberlogs and leather. I'll replace it with something else, the day I find a suited material.

HEATING and VENTILATION, REGULATORS and DUCTS
Even by today's standards the 99 is excellent in terms of function and capacity. And the controls are a masterpiece in simplicity. Three illuminated twist-knobs for:
- Air up (defroster)
- Temperature
- Air down (feet)
And on pre m82 models a gear console mounted lever controlled the rear feet ducts. As of m82 the lever was deleted, so the air cannot be shut off.
On earlier 2, 3 and 4-door's, there was also a gear console mounted lever for the rear window demist ducts.

Side window defrosting is taken care of by a pair of small ducts in the a-pillar. Highly unusual, but very effective. On the more modern and improved (?) 900, the side window defroster ducts were located in the facia, on top of the side fresh air ducts, as it is on most other cars. Not quite as effective...
The efficiency of these ducts was somewhat disturbed in 1982, when the 99 got new exterior mirrors. (?) The adjuster-pin ended up directly in the airflow, and acts as a flap! (Flop?) Not to worry though, this is an excellent excuse to install electric mirrors from a 900.

Thumbs up for the front feet ducts, they are positioned and aimed so that they actually warm your feet! It shouldn't be necessary to say this, but unfortunately not all cars do this.
The same can be said about the rear feet ducts. By comparison, the airflow here with the fan on step one, is twice the amount pumped out of a 2001 model Toyota Avensis with the fan on full speed. They cant even blow out a match...

On the more modern and improved (??) 900, the rear feet ducts were moved from under the front seats, to in front of the front seats. Good grief, why???

II have one clearly defined demand from a car's ventilation system: It shall deliver fresh air for my face and hot air for my feet, simultaniously! Try that in a japanese car... not.
The center and side fresh air ducts can, however, be switched over to deliver hot air, by means of an engine-bay mounted lever. Open the bonnet, and on the left side of the heaterbox, next to the alternator, you'll find it. Stop the engine before trying to operate it!
On the more modern and improved (???) 900, you cant do this.

The fan switch, being of the old school, has three positions: off-one-two. The 900 switch also has three positions: one-two-three. There is no off! I thought this was a splendid idea. There is no reason to swith off the fan, while the engine is running, so I added another resistor to the fan, wired directly to the fan fuse. (see "wiring schemes") My 99 now has the same old three-position swith, only now it's: one-two-three.

99 DASH PAD REPAIR
I've got an original '72 99 with a very nice interior. The previous owner really cared for it, and I know how fortunate I am. It seems that all the care in the world can't stop that infamous dash panel curl-up. As you know, replacements are long gone. In the Saab service supplement no. 1 manual, servive bulletin # 08/78-316 addresses this. It shows how to form an angled tool and wedge down standard electrical wire between the pad and the windshield seal. I attempted this on a parts car first and found the hard brittle vinyl broke in pieces like a potato chip. Here's what you do. Get a hair dryer and heat the pad, moving back and forth so as not to melt. you will be amazed how soft and plyable it wil get to work with. It will harden pretty quick though...so you will have to reheat several times as you work the pad back in. I also put silicone under the damaged areas to prevent further lift. I followed the bulletin and it looks perfect, using armor-all to maintain it. This heat meathod is fantastic for pad removal from parts vehicles as well- it will come out without any damage. Hats off to the guy who came up with the electrical wire trick. IT WORKS !!!!

Author, Kevin Pentowski.

Now you see it...

Now you dont!

LOWER FACIA PASSENGER GRABHANDLE
Think what you want, I've always thought this item was totally misplaced in my car. In an m70 maybe, but not in later cars. Unfortunately, it's no use in removing only the grabhandle itself, the lower edge panel still shows evidence of what once was there. Extensive cutting and moulding is required here. Roll up your sleeves, and follow the lead.
- If there is a center console, remove it.
- Remove the large lower facia panels, on both sides.
- Remove the ashtray and the center lower facia panel.
- Remove the steering wheel coloumn.
- Unbolt the grabhandle.
- Remove the passenger-side lower facia edge panel
- Remove the center lower facia edge panel.
Behind these lower edge panels are the two steel brackets, that the handle was bolted to.
- Cut awat the two steel brackets. I used an anglegrinder. (As usual)
- On the center and passenger-side lower edge plastic panel, cut away the moulded base for the grabhandle. I used the Minicraft.
- From a donor car's lower edge panel, cut out two pieces that will fit in the gaps on the center and passenger-side lower edge panel.
- Mould in the two pieces, using fibreglass and epoxy. Because the left part of the grabhandle was attached to both the center and the passenger-side lower edge panel, these will now have to be moulded together.
- Leave it to dry overnight.
- Cut out a piece of vinyl (leatherlook) that will cover the entire lower edge panel.
- Spray glue (3M 90) on the lower surface of the entire lower edge panel, and on the vinyl.
- Allow the glue to dry for a minute, and join them together.
- Spray glue on the front edge, and the rest of the vinyl.
- Allow the glue to dry for a minute, and wrap the vinyl around the front edge. Stretch it arount the outer corner.
- Trim away ecsessive vinyl from the back of the lower edge panel with an Olfa knife.
- Repeat the procedure on the left lower edge panel.
- Install the modified lower edge panels, and the rest of the panels.

A friend of mine did not wish to remove his grabhandle. He uses it to hold the morning newspaper, as he is off to work.