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History and Development
Our First
Cruises
We didn't complete either
of our first two planned cruises as beginners. The first, a fifteen nautical
mile 'Sunday Drive' up to Broken Bay to spend the weekend, ended off
Sydney heads, an hour from home, in 25 knot headwinds and a 3 metre
swell. So much for the forecast 'light' northerly! We
turned back, bemused, and spent the weekend pottering about Sydney
Harbour. A short time later, after a few successful jaunts to Broken
Bay, we thought we'd try a longer cruise - the 'Easter-weekender' to Port
Stephens, (80 nautical miles north of Sydney), where we
first met, lived and windsurfed together.
A cool, windless Friday night meant motorsailing from Sydney Harbour to Broken
Bay and resting until daylight in a bay on the Hawkesbury River before
leaving for Port Stephens in the early hours of the next
morning. Spotting a National Parks mooring buoy in the
bright moonlight was easy and we rested peacefully for a few hours. It seemed
only five minutes later that we weighed anchor -at 2am - and headed back to sea, a 5-8
knot breeze following us down the river. Outside the heads, a 20
knot southerly had heaped the seas
into oily black mounds. Not wanting
another 'failure', we turned north and ran before the wind for four
hours, intent on making Port Stephens by nightfall.
The wind gradually built to 30
knots. With no autohelm to share the work, Glen struggled to
keep us surfing straight on waves he couldn't see and which grew
along with the wind. To make matters worse, the swells were
crunching head-on into the fast-flowing, south-setting East
Australian Current, creating steep, jagged packs of waves
that boomed into our bows and showered the deck and cockpit with
cold sea water. With no spray hood to protect Glen at the helm he
was soon cold and very uncomfortable. The little harbour
'racer' was beginning to show her limitations and we were already
painfully aware of ours (well, I was anyway!).
Throughout the night, I had been lying on the cabin
floor, wedged in place against the roll and sway with life jackets. After
a few hours of thundering through the tortured, surging ocean, Glen
called me up to see the sunrise. In the muted pre-dawn
light we could at last see the ocean - a seascape conjured by George
Wesley Bellows, had it been a painting, and not, as it was,
so powerfully real. Armies of grey-green waves, black valleys
dotted by swooping seabirds, salt-spray clouds of mist blowing across
a pale buttercup-pink dawn sky. At least it wasn't stormy, I thought.
We both felt dwarfed by the sea.
I told Glen then that the cabin sole,which was meant
to be held to the hull by long threaded screws, had been
lifting during the night as swells rolled under the hull. The screws had
all been ripped out by the force of the swells on the under-side of the
bottom of the boat. The mast post, solid 4x4 inch teak, had been leaping
about like a crazed fire-cracker whenever the floor lifted and settled.
We agreed that didn't seem right. We also, ruefully, agreed to tack around and
head back to Broken Bay.
Surfing invisible waves in a 30 knot breeze for four hours is uncomfortable enough in a little
boat; but slamming into it for twice as long to get
back to Broken Bay was a hull-shuddering, tooth-clenching
battle. We spent the entire day thrashing into blue-black peaks
over and over, hour after endless hour, until, at last, we could see
Barrenjoey Light on the southern headland of Broken Bay; and there,
at long, long last, was Refuge Cove (now we knew why it was so named!) -
eight hours of bone-crunching ''sailing'' later. It was a hard, but
a fast way to learn.
We learned, among other things, not to get in
front of a young south coast southerly; we learned what
'beating' and 'running' really were. We saw how the sea
heaps up when a strong wind meets a strong
opposing current. We learned of the relentless indifference of
nature. We learned we could handle it even
if we didn't like it.
We knew, too, by the time we turned around, that
the little Carter 30, ('fast in her day' as everyone who knew her
just had to tell us), was no ocean cruising boat. Her bottom was flat
and 'soft' - not much glass down there - and we thought it prudent not
to press her beyond her design limitations. We still loved her; but
she wasn't going to take us where we wanted to go. We still enjoyed
her immensely while we were searching forDione and she will
always live among our fondest memories.
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